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decided to just rebuild my engine. have a machine shop guy i know who is helping me out for decent price. I took engine and tranny apart. I am wondering if i should buy a clutch kit. Nothing looks bad to me but i dont really know what to look for either.. any thoughts. is it worth 200bucks to do?

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 Looking at the pics it looks like the clutch disc lining is worn down to the tops of the rivets. I see what I think is a few shiny rivets. If it's down to polishing the rivets, it's time to replace it along with the release bearing and pilot bushing. And, "as long as you're in there" having the flywheel resurfaced or even lightened.

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Looks like one of the "tall" 240Z pressure plates.  If you don't get another tall one you'll need a different throwout bearing sleeve/collar and maybe a different slave cylinder.  People have problems with the early 240Z stuff.  Beware.

zKars posted a link to a place that sells tall pressure plates in one of his past threads.

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I can't imagine not replacing all the clutch parts, including the slave cyl. and the pilot shaft bushing while you are in there.  I always buy a "clutch kit" so that it all works together as it should. Mixing parts from different models/years can get you in trouble. Lot's of info here about what to avoid. 

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To add my two cents: I ABSOLUTELY LOVE my Fidanza flywheel and exedy clutch! I think they do a great package on eBay but just check you are getting the right one for your car ...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EXEDY-CLUTCH-KIT-06029-w-FIDANZA-FLYWHEEL-for-70-75-DATSUN-240Z-260Z-2-4L-2-6L-/324528069103?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286


And I have to echo the sentiments - replace all the bits that wear out and you’ve done it once!! Having said that, I didn’t replace my slave cylinder as I preferred the original part to the new one I had bought! Somehow it felt better built.

We’re no longer allowed to say “salve” cyl are we? What is the new correct phrase?

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23 hours ago, AK260 said:


We’re no longer allowed to say “salve” cyl are we? What is the new correct phrase?

To me it will always be master and slave.

But for the overly sensitive types, perhaps primary and secondary, or actuator and actuatee, or . . . . . .

 

. . . . . nah, screw it. The thing that forces the fluid is the master, the thing that responds to the fluid pressure the slave.
 

 

 

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On 4/7/2021 at 5:26 PM, Wally said:

decided to just rebuild my engine. have a machine shop guy i know who is helping me out for decent price. I took engine and tranny apart. I am wondering if i should buy a clutch kit. Nothing looks bad to me but i dont really know what to look for either.. any thoughts. is it worth 200bucks to do?

IMG_2276.jpg

IMG_2277.jpg

IMG_2279.jpg

I agree with the other guys, new clutch disc and cover, throw out bearing and pilot shaft bushing, resurface the flywheel.

Also, the machine shop that balances the rotating assembly should also include the flywheel and clutch cover, and the vibration damper/crank pulley when balancing everything, and mark the flywheel/clutch cover and crank hub so it can all be reassembled in the orientation it was in when balanced.

 

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To me it will always be master and slave.
But for the overly sensitive types, perhaps primary and secondary, or actuator and actuatee, or . . . . . .
 
. . . . . nah, screw it. The thing that forces the fluid is the master, the thing that responds to the fluid pressure the slave.
 
 
 


You cracked me up! I had the exact same conversation in my head too!!! I figured “secondary” would just cause confusion ;)

Maybe top dog and underdog!?
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@AK260 @Racer X

this has been a topic in computing for a while see https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Master/slave_(technology)


We stopped using ‘master’ to denote our ‘development’ software. We use ‘develop’ now to indicate that it’s the primary branch. 
We also stopped using blacklist/whitelist. Instead we use inclusion-list, exclusion-list. Which is more straightforward and explicit in the name.

I personally use primary/secondary to denote the hierarchy of coupled devices.

 

ah yes clutches, I have a thread here for part references for the setup that AK is talking about, I’m still buttoning up the car, so I don’t know how it feels. 

 

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On 4/11/2021 at 2:58 PM, AK260 said:

To add my two cents: I ABSOLUTELY LOVE my Fidanza flywheel and exedy clutch! I think they do a great package on eBay but just check you are getting the right one for your car ...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EXEDY-CLUTCH-KIT-06029-w-FIDANZA-FLYWHEEL-for-70-75-DATSUN-240Z-260Z-2-4L-2-6L-/324528069103?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286


And I have to echo the sentiments - replace all the bits that wear out and you’ve done it once!! Having said that, I didn’t replace my slave cylinder as I preferred the original part to the new one I had bought! Somehow it felt better built.

We’re no longer allowed to say “salve” cyl are we? What is the new correct phrase?

thats a lot of money..  how will this new upgraded flywheel and clutch affect the car? i assumed improved performance somehow or is it longer lifespan?

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thats a lot of money..  how will this new upgraded flywheel and clutch affect the car? i assumed improved performance somehow or is it longer lifespan?


Not sure about how much longer or better as I only do about 1000 miles a year!

But the responsiveness of the engine and its rev happiness are wonderful over stock! And that’s without loosing drivability.

The other thing I like about the fidanza is that on your next clutch replacement, you can just screw in a new flywheel face - no need to resurface.

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Not sure if you've ridden dirt bikes in the past but that's my way to compare. A 2 cycle would be the aluminum flywheel and a 4 stroke would be OEM flyweel.

I love the quick rev of the lightened flywheel. Had one on my boat too and it was great.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Clutch kits aren't that pricing and it's worth the peace of mind - I can't imagine putting everything back in the car only to discover that something wasn't right.  I'm in the process of a major rebuild on my 240, replaced everything including the pilot bushing.  This bushing is sometimes overlooked because it can be tough to get out.  You'll know it's bad by the nasty squeal, but then it's too late.   Here's a tip - get a 5/8 bolt or piece of bar stock, one wrap of black electrical tape to make it snug, fill the hole with grease and hit the bolt head sharply - the hydraulic pressure pops out the bushing.  Here's a photo, better than an explanation.  I hit it about 6 times with a heavy mallet, no need to be gentle.

4 27 pilot bearing.jpg

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Make sure your clutch kit is compatible with your clutch collar! You'll end up being like me when I didn't check and had to take that transmission off several times.  

 

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 On the subject of pilot bushing (bearing) removal, here's the strangest and possibly the most effective method I've ever tried. I couldn't remove the pilot bearing from our RX 7. Small puller, regrinding the tips, nothing worked. An old mechanic friend asked me if I tried bread. I immediately asked, "What the hell are you talking about? He said stuff bread into the bearing center and get a bolt slightly smaller than the bearing center. Smack the bolt and add more bread. After repeating those two steps three times the bearing slid right out, to my amazement.

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2 minutes ago, Mark Maras said:

 On the subject of pilot bushing (bearing) removal, here's the strangest and possibly the most effective method I've ever tried. I couldn't remove the pilot bearing from our RX 7. Small puller, regrinding the tips, nothing worked. An old mechanic friend asked me if I tried bread. I immediately asked, "What the hell are you talking about? He said stuff bread into the bearing center and get a bolt slightly smaller than the bearing center. Smack the bolt and add more bread. After repeating those two steps three times the bearing slid right out, to my amazement.

That's a Wonderful story.

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Just my $.02, but I really like the Centerforce clutch and pressure plate.

Put one in my '76 about 20 years ago. After many, many hard launches at Autocross events, it's still going strong!

I have one in my '73 also, but it's only been in for 4 years. I really like the pedal feel. Not too stiff, not too light.

Edited by crayZlair
added more for clarity
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