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Roseville CA New Member / Owner


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Hi everyone, Richie G here recent owner but long time lover of Z cars.  Child of the 70s and my first introduction to the Z car was a friend who had an original 240Z (not sure which year I was so young).  When I turned 18 (1989) I bought my first Z a 84 300ZX that was rather rough but I loved it.  Babied it for 10 years then needed to sell it as i moved to CA for work in 99.  Here we are over 20 years later and the wife let me buy my dream car, that original 240.  I just picked up a beauty, matching numbers fully rebuilt engine with interior restored.  Has a few cosmetic things here and there but nothing major to deal with.  It will be the little things I get to enjoy restoring myself 🙂  It just got dropped off yesterday from a long haul Connecticut purchase and I haven't even driven it yet 😞  Hoping to get out today if the weather lets up a bit.  As I'm inspecting it I noticed a drop of oil (assuming )under her way back in the mid section (about where muffler connects to pipe) so it must have come from the pull into the garage.  Haven't gotten under her yet to fully take a look though.  I'm hoping it's nothing major.  Which leads me to my question, anyone on here know of a decent Z mechanic in the Sacramento / Roseville area I can take it to?  I want to have it once overed making sure everything is mechanically sound, tuned, etc before I really start enjoying it.  I'm somewhat mechanically inclined but I recently had back surgery and I just can't spend too much time down under or in her just yet.  I really appreciate any help someone can give.


Richie

20210313_174219 (2).jpg

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Thanks!  I'm dying to get my first spin, at home with the little one waiting for the wife to return.  It's like waking up before your parents xmas morning and sitting by the presents lol.

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Posted (edited)

Many leak oil at the back corner of the oil pan, passenger side of the car.  i have a brand new oil pan gasket, torqued to 7 ft/lbs, with less than 100 miles on it and I can already see the signs of seepage.

Welcome, and beautiful car.

Edit: I just re torqued to 7ft-lbs after 100 miles but haven't driven it yet. Perhaps yours is freshly rebuilt and simply due for a re check of torque specs.

Edited by Reptoid Overlords
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Welcome to the group, that is a stunning car! You'll find several Safari Gold bigots on the site, myself included. 😉

Do all of us a favor and add your VIN and build date to a signature line in your profile. Questions you pose and the answers you get will typically be more on target with this info.

Enjoy the ride!

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Welcome to the club Richie. She is a beautiful 240! We need more pics though.

As far as I'm concerned you have landed on the best site there is! The people are friendly and very knowledgeable here. You will learn a lot. Probably the sole reason I still have my Z.  

Bob

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Posted (edited)

Yes! What he said.

I would have thrown in the "shop rag" years ago if it weren't for these nice, helpful folks. No attitudes here just people wanting to help solve problems. Amazing group of people!

Edited by siteunseen
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Thanks all, I feel welcomed already!  I added my vin and build to my profile but not sure I put it in the right place?  Pointers?  I started her up for the first time and man those chokes are fickle lol.  Going to take a while to get used to it for sure.  I wasn't able to get her out of the garage yet because of the weather but hoping to tomorrow.  I did notice she seems to be running super rich or maybe that was just the choke and she'll lean out the longer I let her idle.  Anyone have some tips for choke starting and how long to let her idle?  It seemed as soon as i started feathering off she wanted to stall.  As for the drip, i do see a bit of old stuff on the pan but it seems like it's up passenger front.  I only had her running for a few minutes and maybe not enough to get fresh drips to eyeball.

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LOL, that was the dealer video that finally hooked me.  Still waiting to make my own.  Here's some more pics.

 

Seriously everyone thanks so much for the compliments.  This is truly a community feeling.1234231_6707.jpg1234231_4669.jpg1234231_2415.jpg1234231_1738.jpg1234231_1241.jpg1234231_1176.jpg

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You only need enough choke to keep it from stalling. It will need slightly less choke at idle than under a load and gradually less as the engine warms. Typically, I give it full choke, start the engine and as soon as the idle becomes lumpy and the rpms drop, I start decreasing the choke until the idle is smooth, revving it slightly to `test the mixture` for good response.

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Thanks Mark I'll give that a try.  So no pumping pre start or part of the start?  The guy that dropped it off says pump her three times and skip the choke.  I was like ummm no I don't so.

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Beautiful original looking restoration!   Safari Gold no less...

In your climate, with the carbs dialed in correctly,  I would guess it will start with no choke needed.  I assume it is warm in your area of California.

In any case, you want to use the least amount of choke and its time you can get away with.  Nothing like washing the cylinder walls with gas if its left on too long.

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Hé welcome here, you have a very nice car there!

 

One question i got..

Why is the 5'th button, preselect button on your radio green?  Never seen that (NOT that i've seen it all hey !!! 😄)  ?

Have you found your oil leak? I have a 240z i fixed up in 2000 and never leaked oil, i think it's very possible to have a 240z thats bone dry under it..

 

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 Most carbs have accelerator pumps that squirt an extra bit of gas to enrich the mixture when one pushes on the gas pedal. Round top SUs don't have an accelerator pump as Charles stated. Try starting it without the choke and if it doesn't start right away gradually give it more choke until it fires.

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dutch come on man, that's the AWESOME button! 🙂  The guy i bought it from mentioned the radio was shot, probably just an old button he had laying around.  I'm also missing the button on the hazard switch and it doesn't work.

Mark I'll try that next time i can get her started.  It's going to be another rainy day out here 😞 I noticed there's a summer winter valve on the air intake.  i downloaded the manual, says over under 60F to use that.  Any opinions on where that stands?

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Richie G said:

 I noticed there's a summer winter valve on the air intake.  i downloaded the manual, says over under 60F to use that.  Any opinions on where that stands?

The summer/winter valve directs warm air from the exhaust manifold heat riser when selected for winter to prevent icing in the carburetor throats, blocks that off and directs cooler air from the front when selected for summer.

Edited by Racer X
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