Jump to content

IGNORED

Zcardepot Header Experience?


Recommended Posts


There's a very similar discussion going on in another thread.  Kind of confusing though, about what parts are being discussed and where they came from.

Those ZCD headers don't have matching ports.  Four round, two square.  You want the ports to match the exhaust ports on the heads.

image.png

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Their website no longer shows that picture.  Can't believe anyone would produce a header with different shaped ports.  You'd have to go out of your way to do that.  So odd.  

Link to post
Share on other sites

It's still there.  You have to hover over the picture, then see the little arrow things, then click on an arrow.  These web site designers get so clever that they make their own work useless.

image.png

Link to post
Share on other sites

Ahh, I see it now.   I've bought a few things from them lately, but nothing too complicated like a header apparently is 😉

I can say their service is quick.  Never had a problem that I had to send back.  I was interested in this header because of the long collector pipe that is coated.  I was hoping it would help with the heat coming up through the floor board under my seat.  I drive mine on long trips from time to time and it gets so hot.  Anything over a two hour trip and my tail starts to sweat, and I've got cold AC.   I stuff towels under the seat and between the seat and transmission tunnel, which helps a lot.  

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

You can try something like these:

Design Engineering DEI 010451 DEI Titanium Pipe Shield with LR Technology | Summit Racing

Thermo-Tec 11676 Thermo-Tec Stainless Steel Clamp-On Heat Shields | Summit Racing

I have the Thermo-Tec on my race car dual exhaust which sits directly under my feet. No interior heat shield or carpet. Without the heat shield the floor would reach 145 degrees and with the shield 100. I will likely go with a sheet of aluminum and stand offs to give me an air cushion with another layer of protect like gold film on the bottom.

I use the same one on my street Z but at least I have dynomat and a carpet to help.

 

Edited by gnosez
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the tip.  About to start ordering.  Think I'll just keep it simple and go with the MSA 6/1 coated header and one of their exhausts.  I figure they've worked the kinks out and it should be an easy install.  Hard part seems to be getting the old stuff off the car.  

Link to post
Share on other sites

Don’t think you can go wrong with the MSA header - it’s been the same design forever . Thick flange . NOT equal length , but that doesn’t amount to much as far as performance .  My MSA does a good job keeping heat in the header with the ceramic coat . I don’t like this mismatched port shapes either . 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Haven't done much business with Zcar Depot, but so far I'm lukewarm about them.  Picked up their brake line insulator and bracket clip sets recently - the brake line insulators are fine for 3D printed pieces, but the hole for the fuel return is sized way too big on the curved transmission tunnel insulators for the 1971 OE pipe size.  The clamp set is ok, except for they don't provide the correct elongated clamp for the flow guide firewall mount.  Sent them an email about these issues, got one response saying that they've sold hundreds of these with no issues, and then they went silent.  Seeing this header with mismatched ports doesn't surprise me based on my experience.

I had good luck with the MSA 6->1 header (uncoated) and their 2.5" exhaust system on my 1971 30 years ago, assuming the pieces haven't changed much I'd probably go that route again.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Actually, there 6/1 says it has equal length tubes.  Motorsport! MOTORSPORT TBC Coated 6-1 Header, 70-76 240Z-260Z-280Z - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z 260Z 280Z 280ZX 300ZX ( Z31 Z32 ) 350Z 370Z Parts

If you read some of my other posts over the years, the primary reason to switch to headers is that I have a 73, which has a unique downtube that I would have to have custom made if I want to keep the stock exhaust manifold.  The stock manifold has all the ugly fittings for EGR, which PO left when he removed all the EGR stuff as part of the conversion to round tops.  I could have the downpipe made, then pull it and the manifold, remove and plug the fittings, check it for warpage, get it blasted, and have it all coated.  Then bolt it all back on and be good.  The somewhat stock exhaust would match the pretty polished intakes, balance tube and refurbished carbs that are going on it.  Or...I could just get a coated header.  I'd store the old manifold in case I ever wanted to go back to stock.  

Seems easier to go with headers, and does stock exhaust manifold matter much when the intake and carbs have already been changed?  The engine is otherwise all stock, so I doubt I will get much performance gain from the headers.  My exhaust itself looks mostly factory, complete with crush bent, skinny pipes.  The PO did replace the muffler with a vertical twin slashed tip Ansa, but it's starting to rust out.  I bet I'll see some gain just from replacing the pipes and muffler.  Car only has 106k documented miles on it, most of which were put on before 1990.  I've put 12k on it since I bought it in 2007.  I plan to keep it a while longer.  

Link to post
Share on other sites
9 minutes ago, AK260 said:

I just posted this onto the other thread ...

Not sure how good this is but it “looks” like a remake of the MSA / Pacesetter items ...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-5-Primary-Datsun-Z-Header-All-Square-Port-240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-/313386185058?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292
 

They hide the actual ports in their pictures.  Probably the same 4 round, 2 square header.  There's probably an offshore company making thousands of these for cheap, and people are just reselling them.

Link to post
Share on other sites
Is it me, or should the pipes be fully welded to the flange?  See attached pic from the add.  
 
image.thumb.png.55ef1e5e00c6469334c61eda1850eb26.png
 


You know, I had the same exact thought when I went back to look at it!! :o
Link to post
Share on other sites

Maybe he builds them to order and he got lazy on his picture taking.  His BMW headers seem to be fully welded.  Doesn't seem pleasant to deal with, whatever is going on.  Just surprising that people who should know what's important don't show what's important.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Top-End-BMW-2002-Shorty-E10-Exhaust-Header/164146687745?hash=item2637e7af01:g:xLsAAOSwFnFV8bQ3

image.png

Link to post
Share on other sites

Some of the ones I’ve seen are not completely welded on the outside side of the flange, but should be on the inside where it is more important.

eBay example

2b9dc8b897a3350456f7ccb3235e2a23.jpg

06d56d92232c2038b57deb9f5337bfcc.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to post
Share on other sites

The reason that I have read about is a fully welded runner onto the flange tends to crack easier where as a flange that is pinning the flattend end of runner to the exhaust port doesn't. The small tack welds on the outside of the flange hold it all together but allow the different expansion rates to coexist without cracking.

It does make some sense but then I've had fully welded headers that have never had a problem with cracking.  Maybe on a race car where there would be more extremes it would be different?

Link to post
Share on other sites

Any headers part-welded onto the flange have been so done to keep costs down.

If you have the opportunity to buy headers with matching ports do so.

A 6-1 will work, a 6-2 will work better*.....better still with longer twin secondary pipes joining to 1x at the rear of the gearbox and not before the firewall.

All said, of the least expensive headers on the market - the coated MSA 6-2 is the best value : https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic19d/15-6001CH

Please note that its' 1.5" primary pipes have a much smaller inner diameter than other after-market headers although plenty big enough for a stock or near stock street engine.

 

*for a street engine, what one needs to release is torque, not top-end power. A 6-2 will do this best and torque is what we use for each gear change and acceleration ; ask yourself how frequently you max out the revs to obtain max power ?

  • Like 4
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.