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1976 280 Z from Ohio to Dubai


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22 hours ago, BAS_DXB said:

you mean the ones on Fig. GI-6 right ? Heard too may bad stories about it

Yes, they are the right points..   The many bad stories are because the middle steel plate that normally is in there has rotten away and the sides colapse easely..  That is not gona happen when you have restored your chassis well..

21 hours ago, grannyknot said:

stripped chassis weighs just over 500 lbs

I totally agree  (i already started the discussion with a smile on my face you know..)  And your right, it's weight is low but it will get heavier.

You know, when i see a car for sale and it's on a lift like that, i already don't trust the chassis..

It's probably rotten away inside.. 

 

 

Edited by dutchzcarguy
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Posted (edited)

Good day guys,

Another milestone achieved: exactly 5 months after taking the wheels off, Zinta is back on the ground.

WhatsApp Image 2020-10-05 at 3.26.13 PM.jpegPhoto 03-03-2021, 4 49 05 PM.jpgPhoto 03-03-2021, 5 51 58 PM.jpgPhoto 03-03-2021, 6 05 26 PM.jpg

Last beating on the rear quarter panels and bumper to use as little as possible body filler, and also 3 spots on the roof to correct...

Photo 04-03-2021, 3 42 51 PM.jpg

Doors/Trunk/Boot/air dam/fenders are ready for the final coat.

Photo 03-03-2021, 5 49 03 PM.jpgPhoto 03-03-2021, 5 47 51 PM.jpg

Tomorrow afternoon or Sunday morning latest we shall lay down the final blue coat !

Edited by BAS_DXB
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Without judging in any way,.... what is your total cost of restoration (equivalent US dollars) to get the car from arrival in Dubai to where it will be finished? You are moving so fast!! I'm about $35,000 USD deep into mine and seven years....

Curious to know if the resto costs are comparable there to here...

 

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Just curious on your suspension plans. What are you going to use for your front and rear strut’s? Factory or an aftermarket version.

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13 hours ago, wheee! said:

Without judging in any way,.... what is your total cost of restoration (equivalent US dollars) to get the car from arrival in Dubai to where it will be finished? You are moving so fast!! I'm about $35,000 USD deep into mine and seven years....

Curious to know if the resto costs are comparable there to here...

 

Overall restoration (strip down/bodywork/painting/reassembly): USD 25K

Interior restoration (seats/dashboard/console/door panels/roof lining): USD 3K

Parts+Material: USD 10-12K

So in total around USD 40K to have it running again and better than new, so this is comparable, but I do not own all the equipment that you invested in for yours, if you counted it in your total.

Labor cost in the UAE is very interesting and even though the workshop I work with is on the expensive side, the quality of execution is much higher than the average here.

The issue is obliviously all the shipping time/costs and import taxes from the US to here, but I believe you face the same outrageous rap** to get everything in Canada...

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Posted (edited)
6 hours ago, Yarb said:

Just curious on your suspension plans. What are you going to use for your front and rear strut’s? Factory or an aftermarket version.

I had 4 brand new KYB Excel-G as part of the spare parts coming with the car, so I am giving it a shot ! Then the T3 weld-on coil-over kit to be fitted on the original shock housing.

20200501_194816.jpgPhoto 02-02-2021, 10 19 56 AM.jpg

We machined and welded metal support ring to sit the coil-over kit (original ones from T3 was not the correct diameter) and made 2 grooves to keep the O-rings in place.

Photo 02-02-2021, 10 20 06 AM.jpg

I am quite happy with the color theme, now just to confirm if the driving sensations are as pleasant !

Photo 02-03-2021, 5 00 13 PM (1).jpg

Edited by BAS_DXB
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A good and sheap restauration is possible in Poland.. There are good shops with low labor costs..

An example i've seen was a sort of army jeep resto by a firm called Marian  (No girls name it's the firm name..) It was done for michael Manousakis (Yes a greek living in Germany for almost or all his life.)  It was in a television show called "the steelbuddies" in German TV.

Here a video of that firm..  There must be (somewhere) a video about the restauration of a Ford Mutt  for around 14000 euro's, an open sort of jeep..

Rundgang Fort Marian in Polen, Außenlager der Steel Buddies - YouTube

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4 hours ago, BAS_DXB said:

I had 4 brand new KYB Excel-G

20200501_194816.jpg

So in the pic, there are rubber bellows and bump stops, but in the completed pic, neither of those were used.

Why not? Didn't fit well? Just didn't like the look?

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3 hours ago, dutchzcarguy said:

A good and sheap restauration is possible in Poland.. There are good shops with low labor costs..

An example i've seen was a sort of army jeep resto by a firm called Marian  (No girls name it's the firm name..) It was done for michael Manousakis (Yes a greek living in Germany for almost or all his life.)  It was in a television show called "the steelbuddies" in German TV.

Here a video of that firm..  There must be (somewhere) a video about the restauration of a Ford Mutt  for around 14000 euro's, an open sort of jeep..

Rundgang Fort Marian in Polen, Außenlager der Steel Buddies - YouTube

I remember a show on Netflix with Michael restoring and flipping many army vehicles and even a plane from WWII. Same kind as rust valley restorers.

The video you are referring to is this one correct ? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iE8E-2VNv9E.

The advantage they have in eastern Europe is the access to a lot of army vehicles, so that's how they source their parts and cut cost.

Also, its always easier and cheaper to work with body filler / bondo than actually changing and reshaping the metal panels, that's why my car looked great originally, but under than paint was another story...

 

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2 minutes ago, Captain Obvious said:

So in the pic, there are rubber bellows and bump stops, but in the completed pic, neither of those were used.

Why not? Didn't fit well? Just didn't like the look?

That's correct, they did not fit inside the new Springs and would have required some cutting for the bump stops.

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My friend had a car built by a repair shop here in Alberta and paid about $150,000 USD after labour for the same job as you had done. About $20,000 of that was for a built motor though, the rest mostly labour costs. My build contains no labour costs as I did it myself. It would be another $100,000 minimum for the work to have been done here. It seems it would be cheaper to ship cars to Dubai and have them restored then shipped back!

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4 minutes ago, wheee! said:

My friend had a car built by a repair shop here in Alberta and paid about $150,000 USD after labour for the same job as you had done. About $20,000 of that was for a built motor though, the rest mostly labour costs. My build contains no labour costs as I did it myself. It would be another $100,000 minimum for the work to have been done here. It seems it would be cheaper to ship cars to Dubai and have them restored then shipped back!

The labor cost comes from you, you are the one generating the value 😎

Please send any S30s by all mean, I ship them back within 6 months =P

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi guys,

Hope you are well and safe from COVID.

Been a while since my last activity on this thread, been busy on the car wiring/ECU setup and obviously bumping in some issues 😁   not a surprise as my curriculum is mechanical engineering... 

Stupid question 1:

From the MS3pro manual below, VR sensors should be wired to the 4 wires CMP+/CMP- (camshaft) and CKP+/CKP- (crankshaft) from the MS3Pro (4 shielded wires from the white connectors) and don't need power or ground wire as they generate themself the power. This is what I have done so far... but I still don't have RPM sync in tunerstudio...

Also, the onesixindustries CAS (4 pins connector) is considered as a single VR sensor (as per onesixindustries info), on the Crankshaft? (because crank angle sensor...?). So should I remove the CMP+/- (camshaft) and put power/ground instead ? or remove CMP- and CKP- and put power/ground instead ? I found a wiring diagram for L28 that shows this latest option, but I don't know if thats correct and would rather not burn the CAS.

Screen Shot 2021-04-04 at 7.31.28 PM.pngScreen Shot 2021-04-04 at 8.06.31 PM.png

Screen Shot 2021-04-04 at 8.08.08 PM.png

The wiring diagram below shows a CAS with CMP+, CKP+, 12V power and Ground... Should I follow that ?

post-1451-0-14793000-1456520294.png

 

Stupid question 2:

I have a set of DG508 coils on plugs with 2 pins connectors (not like the LS2 above setup above with 4 wires), so the wiring should be 1 power source from the fuel pump relay (as mentioned in the MS3 manual) and 1 signal source the MS3 ignition signal (A-1,E-2,C-3, F-4,B-5,D-6), I don,t need anything else correct ? The 12V power comes from the fuel pump relay all the time, and is only "released" when the signal from the MS3Pro is sent to each particular coil, then the coil itself generates the huge voltage for the spark ?! Or am I wrong here as well ?

Respecting this setup, when running my coil test (on the connector only, disconnected from the coil, and using a small light and wires) I have power all the time (light is ON), independently from the coil output to test (obviously Fuel pump is On), meaning if I test coilA in tunerstudio, connector to coil A gives light, and if I change for test coilE, connectors to coil A still gives light... Am I wrong on the wiring ? or on the software part... I was told by AMPEFI to setup as below:

Screen Shot 2021-04-04 at 9.14.17 PM.pngScreen Shot 2021-04-04 at 7.54.45 PM.png

 

On the bright side my injectors tested correctly, my IAC valve seems to be responding too, the TPS is calibrated and the IAT (I don't have MAT with the ITBs) is a GM type from Protunerz, so all is good and clear.

Also, having an IAC valve (came with the ITBs kit from Jenvey - link), a built in MAP sensor in the Ms3Pro, and running itbs naturally aspirated, I don't need a MAF correct ?

Screen Shot 2021-04-04 at 8.48.41 PM.png

I have a weird temperature reading on the CLT oscillating between -20 C and +80 C (its a VDO sensor that was on the car, cannot find any info for its calibration), I will probably have to do the old school way with water, even-though i found these online:

280zthermistor.jpeg

Please help me, because its a real frustration to be looking at this without having the sound...

Photo 03-04-2021, 12 51 46 PM.jpg

 

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If you were running Haltech I could answer your questions with some confidence. I know that in the end, I only needed one pin in e CAS from onesix in order to have full sequential spark and injection timing. The ground signal was sensor ground from the Haltech.
The COPs you are describing are not self ignited, and need an ignitor in either the megasquirt or a standalone unit (as I understand), that’s why I choose the Honda Acura COPs with self igniters and ground reference firing signal. Full power all the time and a ground signal to fire.

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13 hours ago, wheee! said:

If you were running Haltech I could answer your questions with some confidence. I know that in the end, I only needed one pin in e CAS from onesix in order to have full sequential spark and injection timing. The ground signal was sensor ground from the Haltech.
The COPs you are describing are not self ignited, and need an ignitor in either the megasquirt or a standalone unit (as I understand), that’s why I choose the Honda Acura COPs with self igniters and ground reference firing signal. Full power all the time and a ground signal to fire.

@wheee! Could you please share your CAS wiring with the Haltech wires ?

Thanks a lot for your help on this, will try to get UF400 coils and connectors locally, quite disappointed in myself following the DG508 lead, thinking they had self ignitor... Will try to avoid them burning =D

On 9/15/2020 at 8:06 PM, wheee! said:

Well after another remote tuning sesion, I am not much further ahead. The CAS seemed to be syncing but was still not providing a consistent signal for the Haltech. We tried a few different settings including batch fire injection and wasted spark. That's where things got interesting... the COPs melted in seconds of loading the tune, even before starting the engine. ☹️ Basically as soon as we rebooted the ECU (as you have to after every ECU software change).

I don't think it was the tune as much as a glitch in the Haltech that caused the COPs to latch power. Only three melted. I believe it was cylinders 2, 4 & 6, but I might be wrong. I should have written that down before pulling them.

COPs.jpg

I am waiting for the arrival of some new COP's to reset the software and try again. I also moved the Home signal from one reluctor to the other (B pin to C pin) on the OneSix CAS to see if that helps signal fidelity. Tim (from OneSix) apparently recommends that we use Signal Ground from the Haltech versus Home and Trigger ground in the wiring, so that was done as well.

I opened the valve cover and inspected the cam to see if any of the keepers/lash pads had slid off, causing valve issues but alas, they were fine. So no easy "aha!" moment to be found there. I ordered a NOID light test kit as well, so I will confirm the injectors are firing as they are supposed to. I confirmed all the injectors a re working properly with a 9v battery test. Clicking away happily. The Individual spark was confirmed prior to the meltdown.

Hoping to have some good results soon with the new COPs. If not, I think I will have to consider trashing this CAS and rebuilding the engine setup to run a crank trigger. Not what I wanted to do....

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Your megasquirt may have igniters internally. I had heard that somewhere. Haltech doesn’t include them in the ECU because they are difficult to replace if they burn out, versus popping a new COP on the plug.

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All I use is pin D for crank +
 

That connects to the Haltech crank + wire. Then I use a sensor ground from the Haltech loom to the Haltech Crank ground.  All done. 

E2DC6FEA-9D62-41A8-A039-8E0E2E674F25.png

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1 hour ago, wheee! said:

Your megasquirt may have igniters internally. I had heard that somewhere. Haltech doesn’t include them in the ECU because they are difficult to replace if they burn out, versus popping a new COP on the plug.

Thanks @wheee!

The MS3Pro does not have internal igniters, so I went on the hunt today and found Honda Civic COPs (a little shorter than yours I believe) and a second hand engine harness with plenty of connectors including the 3 pins needed.

For whoever is interested in getting a set of 6x DG508 (+2 spares) + pigtails connectors + bracket to install on valve covers 😂

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1 hour ago, wheee! said:

All I use is pin D for crank +
 

That connects to the Haltech crank + wire. Then I use a sensor ground from the Haltech loom to the Haltech Crank ground.  All done.

Again, thanks for your valuable inputs.

Had a chat with Matt from AMP EFI and he suggested to wire the CKP+ to pin D and CKP- to pin A, with pins B and C left unused, if not getting my RPM sync then I will try your setup with CKP+ on pin D.

He also mentioned I would need to change the setting from crank wheel to cam wheel in tunerstudio.

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Conclusion on the onesixindustries CAS wiring with MS3Pro: CKP+ to pin D and CKP- to pin A, with pins B and C left unused.

The Honda COPS worked their magic and I completed my coil/spark testing.

I now work on the timing/advance and obviously getting some weird thing...

When doing the engine work and so one, we removed the oil pump and spindle and of course did not put it back correctly. So after manually cranking to TDC with valves cover popped open to ensure of the correct position, we fixed the spindle position to 11:25 small side on the left.

Then with the CAS cover open and tooth #1 (24-1) in front of the sensor, we placed the CAS correctly on the block, aligned with spindle, and spun it until the fixation hole was reachable. From this we manually cranked again in order to align tooth #1 to sensor and the reading on the pulley damper was 267* BTDC which seems odd but we followed the method to the dot... Any comments ?

11:25 spindle (engine front on the left)

Photo 06-04-2021, 3 46 14 PM.jpg

My ignition / wheel decoder are as below at the moment, and I have on and off RPM sync. I loose the sync at the same time as my fuel pump relay clicks and get it back when clicks again, so not quite sure about the reason but obviously linked.

Photo 06-04-2021, 7 47 49 PM.jpg

I then got an advice from Hussein at Protunerz (from where I got the CAS) to try alternating / semi-sequential and then change "number of plugs" to "wasted cop". Could not try as the workshop was closing...

Photo 06-04-2021, 7 47 41 PM.jpg

I am also doubting on my firing order, this is what was also in MS3 manual, A1, E2, C3, F4, B5, D6. 

On 11/6/2020 at 6:09 AM, wheee! said:

Ever hear the story about the guy that wired his injectors and COPs for Haltech in 1-5-3-6-2-4 firing order instead 1-2-3-4-5-6 cylinder order?
Yeah, that’s me... I’m the idiot...

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After further investigation, and also trying timing gun to determine BTDC... I still get around 270* 

Something bugged me from the tooth logs, first of all not 23 teeth and 1 tooth missing, and also a number of teeth that was changing...

Photo 10-04-2021, 6 58 22 PM.jpgPhoto 10-04-2021, 6 58 25 PM.jpg


Photo 10-04-2021, 6 58 16 PM.jpgPhoto 10-04-2021, 6 57 53 PM.jpg

I checked again my grounding, made sure the CAS wiring was correct and not close to coils/injectors/power wiring, already have my 10k resistor in series with the CAS (between CKP+ and CKP- wires), and still had these odd tooth log, so I opened the CAS (onesixindustries, 400$ piece of scrap ?).

Photo 08-04-2021, 7 08 54 PM.jpg

To me, it seems like the CAS factory wheel/magnet adjustment was way to big... so I did my best to bring the magnet closer to the wheel, loosen up these 4 bolts. I could not try to take a tooth log today but will do tomorrow morning.

Any other suggestions on what could cause the VR sensor reading f*** up / missing teeth that I did not check as above ? Anyone faced the same issue with onesixindustries CAS or similar and fixed the issue ?

It would make sense that THIS is the problem causing the RPM to sync and unsync, because my BTDC seems "correct", but as the wheel is supposed to be 24-1 but only send input for 17-1 or 18-1 at the moment, then its obvious the ECU cannot cope and get RPM sync 100%.

Photo 10-04-2021, 7 26 40 PM.jpg

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After further investigation, and also trying timing gun to determine BTDC... I still get around 270* 
Something bugged me from the tooth logs, first of all not 23 teeth and 1 tooth missing, and also a number of teeth that was changing...
1105821149_Photo10-04-202165822PM.thumb.jpg.67255e0fb779effc1bd5322b8bd1cdee.jpg991902587_Photo10-04-202165825PM.thumb.jpg.99f255ff8dbfa4e5fcc3a5dc7fa853a3.jpg

255540900_Photo10-04-202165816PM.thumb.jpg.59c5ee5a7c398bbf6dc75bc38c8c1699.jpg493409694_Photo10-04-202165753PM.thumb.jpg.4ab53f8460d05340fad565b5cfe576d7.jpg
I checked again my grounding, made sure the CAS wiring was correct and not close to coils/injectors/power wiring, already have my 10k resistor in series with the CAS (between CKP+ and CKP- wires), and still had these odd tooth log, so I opened the CAS (onesixindustries, 400$ piece of scrap ?).
1129390778_Photo08-04-202170854PM.thumb.jpg.e9aaa0d5455864e6f7fed2f2b3aff95d.jpg
To me, it seems like the CAS factory wheel/magnet adjustment was way to big... so I did my best to bring the magnet closer to the wheel, loosen up these 4 bolts. I could not try to take a tooth log today but will do tomorrow morning.
Any other suggestions on what could cause the VR sensor reading f*** up / missing teeth that I did not check as above ? Anyone faced the same issue with onesixindustries CAS or similar and fixed the issue ?
It would make sense that THIS is the problem causing the RPM to sync and unsync, because my BTDC seems "correct", but as the wheel is supposed to be 24-1 but only send input for 17-1 or 18-1 at the moment, then its obvious the ECU cannot cope and get RPM sync 100%.
2014728082_Photo10-04-202172640PM.thumb.jpg.362924c52e94f0d915eedc16d5214f52.jpg

Add 360 degrees to the timing. You might be on exhaust stroke.
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