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New year new problems. Was going to take the z out this morning on a drive and I hear this loud clicking from the front. Opted not to drive it, but really want to figure out what this issue is.

I tightened the alternator belt, but it did not change. The timing chain on the exhaust/intake side of the engine looks super loose, it looks like it’s slapping around on the rail.

the only other thing I can thing of is the water pump bearing starting to make sounds.

It normal for half of the chain not to have tension on it? The bright chain link lines up with the marking on the cam sprocket, so it would appear that it has not jumped a tooth or anything like that. 

 


I have a remote starter spinning the motor without plugs installed, should I see oil coming from the oil spray bar?

Edited by heyitsrama
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@Mark Maras had to start the motor to get the oil to come up and out.
 

I’ll double check for the lash pad, I also found that the harmonic balancer separated. Can these be rebuilt? Or better off getting a new one? I like having 2 pulley options, finally got the heater sorted, wanted the AC fixed next ha.

931BD25D-F57B-4405-B2AB-6A51B15BF097.jpeg

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1 hour ago, heyitsrama said:

@Mark Maras had to start the motor to get the oil to come up and out.

 

 If the oil tube joints have not separated and the oil tube holes are clean, (common problems) oil should squirt out the holes as soon as you see oil pressure. That includes, spark plugs out and spinning the engine with the starter.

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51 minutes ago, Mark Maras said:

 If the oil tube joints have not separated and the oil tube holes are clean, (common problems) oil should squirt out the holes as soon as you see oil pressure. That includes, spark plugs out and spinning the engine with the starter.

@Mark Maras
I don’t think I’ve ever cleaned the inside of the oil spray tube, might be worthwhile to do as I have to take off the cover again to replace the gasket. I was a bit scared of it separating on me so I opted not to clean it out.

Is there a easy way to clean it out? Perhaps some solvent and letting it sit? I was thinking purple power in a bucket? Then just shooting some water through?

I’ve put a lot of hard miles on the car, not to mention some track time. I would think that the oil has “flushed itself” of deposits, but I could be wrong.

 

on a side note:
I was thinking of inspecting the fan clutch while I have everything apart, it seems to resist being spun by hand when it’s on the car. I thought it was supposed to free spin a bit more... 

the car can take several minutes to warm up, maybe it’s cooling too much, seems to never go past 1/2 on the gauge, sometimes never makes it there either. 

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I used a piece of PVC tube with lacquer thinner. Worked good after soaking a couple off days. Then blew it out with my air compressor.

If you ever have to paint a bunch of staircase balusters this the way to go, BTW.

DSC01318.thumb.JPG.e1a799d82b26f741afa48

Edited by siteunseen
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4 hours ago, heyitsrama said:

@Mark Maras had to start the motor to get the oil to come up and out.
 

I’ll double check for the lash pad, I also found that the harmonic balancer separated. Can these be rebuilt? Or better off getting a new one? I like having 2 pulley options, finally got the heater sorted, wanted the AC fixed next ha.

931BD25D-F57B-4405-B2AB-6A51B15BF097.jpeg

Looks like you found the clicking noise. And yes, dampers can be rebuilt. There is a guy in Snohomish, WA that used to be the local Z guy. He has a bunch of L series dampers that he had rebuilt, and he sells them with exchange of your old damper.

https://zspecialties.com/?swoof=1&pa_years=1973&pa_car-model=240z&product_cat=engine

 

I notice you don't have a mechanical fuel pump. You know that the eccentric on the camshaft can be removed too, right? One less bit of rotating mass spinning away.

 

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9 minutes ago, Racer X said:

There is a guy in Snohomish, WA

Oliver finally updated his website haha.  Man that place is like Disneyland for Z enthusiasts.  It is truly unbelievable the the stuff he has out there.  He moved from "downtown" Snohomish out into the country a few miles.  I've gotten some things from him, good guy, and very knowledgeable.

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2 hours ago, siteunseen said:

I used a piece of PVC tube with lacquer thinner. Worked good after soaking a couple off days. Then blew it out with my air compressor.

If you ever have to paint a bunch of staircase balusters this the way to go, BTW.

DSC01318.thumb.JPG.e1a799d82b26f741afa48

I cleaned mine with lacquer thinner too but when I installed it I noticed that all oil holes were not squirting oil equally. I used a torch tip file to clean the holes. All was well after that.

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1 hour ago, Reptoid Overlords said:

Oliver finally updated his website haha.  Man that place is like Disneyland for Z enthusiasts.  It is truly unbelievable the the stuff he has out there.  He moved from "downtown" Snohomish out into the country a few miles.  I've gotten some things from him, good guy, and very knowledgeable.

I first met him when his shop was on Ballinger Way in King County. I saw him once after he moved to Clearview on Highway 9, and that was about 28 years ago.

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17 hours ago, heyitsrama said:

 

I’ll double check for the lash pad, I also found that the harmonic balancer separated. Can these be rebuilt? Or better off getting a new one?

I've ordered a few of these. Yep---they are real. You might want to snag one while they are available. A lot cheaper than a rebuild, IMO.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Datsun-70-72-240Z-Crankshaft-Pulley/113864791592?hash=item1a82ded628:g:kucAAOSwEC5dYZRA

They are drilled for balance just like the originals and have tapped holes for the additional pulley groove if you need it for A/C.

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Posted (edited)

Lashpads look OK, I’ll remove the oil spray bar today and get it soaked. Thank for the ideas, should have tube in the back can use. 

@Racer X wow that’s not bad at all, nice of them to get the OEM paint colour down on it too.

@foosman I emailed Dale yesterday, he said it’s $140 + shipping for it to be rebuilt. Not too bad IMO.

@Zup I ordered one of those thanks for the heads up, might just run it until I need the other one rebuilt. Why are there 2 grooves if this is not for AC? Is one for the smog pump? Can you not run the AC belt off the spare groove, would the ratio of the size between the crank pulley and the AC pulley be off? 

Edited by heyitsrama
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Replacement crank pully is here, the inside where it fits onto the crank looks like it could be cleaned up a bit, shall probably a scotchbride pad to it to just get it shiny. Is there anything else I should do to prep the balancer for install? Antisieze? Threadlocker :rolleyes:?

These balancers are not bad @Zup not sure about `NOS` they seem like they are new used. LOL

 

IMG_0750.jpg

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43 minutes ago, heyitsrama said:

Replacement crank pully is here, the inside where it fits onto the crank looks like it could be cleaned up a bit, shall probably a scotchbride pad to it to just get it shiny. Is there anything else I should do to prep the balancer for install? Antisieze? Threadlocker :rolleyes:?

These balancers are not bad @Zup not sure about `NOS` they seem like they are new used. LOL

 

IMG_0750.jpg

You could use scotchbrite, or a strip of fine emery cloth to polish it up. Do the inside too.

Be sure there aren't any burrs, don't overlook the keyway.

Clean it with a mild detergent, and install. I like to put a thin film of antisieze on the bore, and in the keyway (use a q-tip). A little goes a long way, just be sure it is even.

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53 minutes ago, heyitsrama said:

 

These balancers are not bad @Zup not sure about `NOS` they seem like they are new used. LOL

 

 

If they were used, the pulley v-grooves would show wear from the belts. Easy to check, a 6" steel scale laid against the bevel, shine a flashlight at the backside. As the grooves wear, the surface will become concave.

I think they just haven't been stored in a dry environment.

 

Edited by Racer X
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Do the flat mating surface on the backside also.  That's the part that clamps it to the crankshaft.  And be careful with the key in the keyway, I've read stories of them getting cokced and/or pushed out of place during installation.

Many people use red loctite, just to the be extra safe.  But Nissan doesn't call for any threadlocker.  I'd just use blue.  Nissan instructions make it "no big deal".

Racer X and Zup know more, I'm just talking about the basics and things I've read.

p.s. I would avoid getting any antiseize on the mating surface at the back.  The bolt clamps that surface to the crankshaft and making it slippery will put extra load on the key, which is supposed to be mainly for locating, as most keys are.  You want that friction.

p.s. 2 check that the hub length is the same as the old one and make sure the bolt doesn't bottom out before clamping.  More stuff I've read. Problems people have had...

image.png

Edited by Zed Head
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On 1/1/2021 at 4:42 PM, heyitsrama said:

@Mark MarasMarsMarMarasMarasM

 

on a side note:
I was thinking of inspecting the fan clutch while I have everything apart, it seems to resist being spun by hand when it’s on the car. I thought it was supposed to free spin a bit more... 

the car can take several minutes to warm up, maybe it’s cooling too much, seems to never go past 1/2 on the gauge, sometimes never makes it there either. 

The thing to look for on a fan clutch is the condition of the bearing. When is fails, the hub gets loose, then the silicone fluid leaks out. 

If the car isn't fully warming up, the likely suspect is the thermostat.

 Check the cooling system temperature with a non contact pyrometer. 

Like this:

E1121-1-1-d45d-We5G.jpg

 

 

 

 

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On 1/1/2021 at 8:30 PM, Racer X said:

I first met him when his shop was on Ballinger Way in King County. I saw him once after he moved to Clearview on Highway 9, and that was about 28 years ago.

He has moved out of the shop in clear view. Pops up on Craigslist once in a while. 

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9 minutes ago, 7tooZ said:

He has moved out of the shop in clear view. Pops up on Craigslist once in a while. 

I wonder where all those Z cars and parts went? It looked like he had 75 to 100 cars there at one time.

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@Zed Head Both the old and new pulley have a hub depth of 27m.. The motor is a l26. I think it should be OK. Thanks for the heads up.

@Racer X I’ll have to double check the fan when this is all installed properly. There seems to be a slight resistance to the fan. I wonder if I can simulate the opening of the plate with a heat gun, just to bench test it. I’ll get a video up later.

there is a difference in diameter of the pulley.

the new one seems to be lighter so that’s nice.

 

F2935C22-713F-45AC-981E-25695B71BDA8.jpeg

4565A0EC-6903-4C9A-8FBE-CD9187E1219C.jpeg

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