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No Spark issue. Negative voltage on ignition switch.


280zdude

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15 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

That might be a collector's item.  Hang on to it.  Is it really from 1977?

16 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

That might be a collector's item.  Hang on to it.  Is it really from 1977?

Hmm it’s a tough question. My thoughts are probably not. Maybe somewhere in the 80s the car was last “registered” in 95. But never got the car running. The car hasn’t ran since 1980s can’t remember the exact year 

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What circuit? The connection between the ignition switch and the ballast resistor does not go through the ignition relay. It goes through connectors C-2 and C-3 (parallel paths). The EFI relay and other circuits depend upon the ignition relay. 

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Got it! The volts are going through the relay wire now! I’m going to spend the day cleaning all the connections until I get the coil in the mail. If that works I’ll will get started on the fuel system. Rn I don’t believe the fuel pump is working at all. I don’t hear it when I turn the key to on or anything! I’ll do as you suggested. 
 

testing the EFI system! I believe the coil will be here with in a week. But it’s Christmas. 

Edited by 280zdude
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2 hours ago, 280zdude said:

Maybe somewhere in the 80s the car was last “registered” in 95. But never got the car running. The car hasn’t ran since 1980s can’t remember the exact year 

Even 1989 is 31 years ago.  Even in California there's going to be moisture in the tank, besides the stuff left behind when it evaporates.  The pump is probably shot.

But, the pump does not get power unless the key is at Start or the engine is running.  Don't run the pump though, until you know the tank is clean.  You'll just push all of the crud in to the fuel line to the filter.

Also beware of the old high pressure EFI lines.  They are usually cracked inside after many years and can split or leak.

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1 minute ago, Zed Head said:

Even 1989 is 31 years ago.  Even in California there's going to be moisture in the tank, besides the stuff left behind when it evaporates.  The pump is probably shot.

But, the pump does not get power unless the key is at Start or the engine is running.  Don't run the pump though, until you know the tank is clean.  You'll just push all of the crud in to the fuel line to the filter.

Also beware of the old high pressure EFI lines.  They are usually cracked inside after many years and can split or leak.

I can tell you this much it looks like red crystals when you look into the filler pipe. I’m probably going to go to some radiator shop and get it cleaned and coated. 
 

Any ideas for efi what should I be looking for in the system? 
 

I can’t find a wiring diagram for the fuse box and the cover is missing does anyone have a picture for the 77 model I found the 88 model one but it seems a bit more updated than what the 77 had 

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The injectors and fuel rail might be fine or they might be rusty.  It's hard to say.  Disconnect a few lines and look inside.  Fuel filter and cold start valve are easy to get to.

The Body Electrical chapter shows where all of the relays are and has a drawing of the fuse box.  Also has many small wiring diagrams that are very detailed.  Spend some time there, and in Engine Electrical and in Engine Fuel.

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35 minutes ago, 280zdude said:

I can tell you this much it looks like red crystals when you look into the filler pipe. I’m probably going to go to some radiator shop and get it cleaned and coated. 
 

Any ideas for efi what should I be looking for in the system? 
 

I can’t find a wiring diagram for the fuse box and the cover is missing does anyone have a picture for the 77 model I found the 88 model one but it seems a bit more updated than what the 77 had 

280Z Fuse Box Covers.jpg

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10 hours ago, 280zdude said:

The volts are going through the relay wire now!

Hihi.. The amps you could say.. (not voltage)   Lesson in electricity..  Volts are always standing between 2 points..   Amperage is (current) in ampère going through a point/cable.   Thats why you have to change your cable connection on your meter when you go from voltage to ampère.  

If your not good at electric things buy yourself a ampère clamp meter. You don't need to switch the cables (and make faults) and just put the wire you want to know the ampèrage from, into the clamp and the meter will tell you if there is a current and how much.. it's almost witchcraft!  😉  AND you don't need to open the circuit, thats a big plus! And your meter will NEVER blow up!  Also a BBIIIIGGGG plus hey?  Amp clamp meters can easely go to 1000 amps without braking down.

Edited by dutchzcarguy
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