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orangecounty240z

how to sell original series I 240z?

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Hi!

To my surprise, my dad has decided to sell his baby, a series 1 240z. I know the value of these is pretty high and need your advice on how to sell it.

He is the only owner, and it has under 90k miles, which he has documentation for. It is all original except: radiator (oem replacement), brake pads, oil filter, headlights (generic), spark plug wires and plugs (generic), distributor rotor and points (generic), engine hoses (oem replacement), some hose clamps (non oem replacements), aftermarket shocks and struts, wheels (mom bought him a set of mags for Christmas 1970 - he kept the covers but not the steel wheels), tires, hatch strut, battery, and antenna (oem replacement). He says he may have changed the pedal pads but can't remember. It runs great. All original rubber trim still looks good.

Known flaws: rear bumper was rechromed around 1980 due to a ding, radio (AM only) does not work, exhaust is rusty, tachometer does not work, heater does not work, antenna does not extend, several door dings (some of which show surface rust) and a few shallow door dents from parking, paint is peeling a bit on the inside of the hood (about 7 square inches of metal are exposed, no rust yet), a few spots of surface rust.  Inside of the hood, where the fan is, has 2 square feet of surface rust looking paint - not sure what's going on there, but dad thinks the fan splashed water there when it was wet. Paint is all original but oxidized and faded.  The chrome bits show some surface oxidation, not pitted and I think can be polished out. Clock doesn’t work. The spare well is perfect, but the flat area under the hatch carpet has cracked paint - don’t see rust there either.

I have done extensive reading on this and other forums. I checked all the common rust spots and they're great. I have not yet gotten it on a lift to check the underside but what I can see looks fine, including inside the wheel wells.

Questions: 1. where should we sell it? Bring a trailer, conventional auctions, private/forum sale?

2. what should we fix? I can try to find a set of 1970 wheels, and mount those instead of the mags (the mags don’t even have any curb rash but the center caps are rusty). I can try to find original wires and plugs, headlights, etc. The dash has never been out, so he didn’t replace the tach; we don’t think we have the skill to do so without damaging something. I can have the dents pushed out, and the rust spots cleaned and put on touch up paint (impossible to match maybe?). I will definitely have it deep detailed to restore the luster of the paint. Or should I do it myself? Been reading about it, the paint is so thin I am worried about a detailer using the wrong products on it and damaging it. I’m happy to put in the time to waterless wash and buff it by hand.

3. any recommendations on detailers in SoCal? We're in Orange County but can drive/trailer it anywhere from LA to SD.

4. If you think we should have the non OEM parts and broken parts and paint problems professionally replaced, which shops do you recommend? I’m willing to pay to ship it somewhere if the right shop is not in the LA area.

Thanks for any advice!

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Can you tell us what the serial number is and what the date of manufacture? Do you have pics?

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No pics yet, can take them if you want to see how bad the paint is or anything else. I know we will need pro photos, any recommendations for a studio in LA area would be appreciated!

Serial is HLS30-05858. Date of 6/70.

Edited by orangecounty240z

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Hood has rock chips and scratches outside, big area of oxidized paint inside, wear points where it touches the engine bay that have worn off the paint and surface rust, and the peeling problem.

peel2.jpgpeel.jpghood.jpghood outside.jpg

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This area will be a problem.  Kidding.  Any chance you could take a few steps back and take some of the whole car?

There's potential for a low miles, low number 240Z, but there are a lot of dents there.  What happened?  Those aren't normal.

image.png

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small garage, big 80s car and a hyper kid who threw his door open no matter how many times he was told to be careful 😓

Yeah a broker who reviewed thinks it's only worth 50k in current condition. I'm now thinking it needs a repaint? External panels and hood only? Except that would leave the hatch area with cracked paint. I need to research the paint and dent removal cost, I don't think any areas will need metal work just clean the rust off the surface. But if that ends up being like $25k and after the work it'll sell for $100k then I think it makes sense to do.

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I know the market is hot for these right now, but I’d be pretty surprised if you would be able to get $100k even after a total restore. Heck, if you can get $50k for it as is then you should just jump on that in a heartbeat. This one is pretty close to what you have, though in better condition and still a reliable daily driver, and sold for low $40k 

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1970-datsun-240z-51/

 

From the few pictures I’ve seen, your Z looks to be in mostly good condition for its age, and is a good candidate for light restoration / repair, but I think the visible rust and flaking paint will deter the higher bidders. But, that’s just my opinion... all you need are two people with deep pockets that really want it.

Edited by zeeboost
Auto correct strikes again

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interesting, thanks! That's a lot lower than I would have expected, I thought all original 1970 models were going for much more than that.

Yes I agree, the issues it has right now will probably deter the high bidders. I need advice on how/what to fix.

But if it's only worth around $40k right now I am betting my dad will just want to keep it, I got him interested in selling by telling him about the ones I saw selling for over $100.

Thanks!

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You'll know more about the market in two days, see link below.  Your car is far from this one in quality.  But, it would behoove you (always wanted to use behoove) if you want maximum price to collect any original paper work your dad has collected.  The early cars' values are affected by provenance (another good word).  

 

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😀 thanks! I will watch that. He is kind of a hoarder so I'm sure he kept some original paperwork. I went into his office the other day and he still has manuals for DOS 2.0 and Windows 3.1 haha. But finding it all and getting it organized will take a while.

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The cars that bring serious money are clean original paint cars for the most part. If you paint it, I think you lose most of that. Motorman7 might be able to help you bring it up. He has a very good body man. It can be a nice car but I'm not sure you'll be any money ahead to paint it versus the way it sits. Zed is right, the more paper history you have the better and one owner helps too.  The poor paint condition really discounts it IMO

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919 Sunshine Yellow is such a great color for a 240Z!  A one owner car with less than 90k original miles, documentation and its original matching-numbers engine will certainly help the value of your dad's 240Z.  As zeeboost mentions in his earlier post, a similar '70 919 Yellow 240Z with a little over 100k miles which the 2nd owner had the car for 49 years that is in better condition than your dad's and sold in a very competitive auction in July for $43.5k. The car also has a lower VIN of HLS30-02207, which made that car even more desirable. 

To be honest, it is going to be tough to find a set of 1970 steel wheels that have a date stamp that would be correct for a 6/70 manufacture date. 1970 date-stamped steel wheels have become very expensive. However, there are currently a couple of Series I cars on BaT that have later date stamped steel wheels and I don't think they affect the value too much. Since your dad still has the car's original D wheel covers and you live in LA, you should be able to find a decent set of steel wheels for your dad's car.  

Edited by lonetreesteve

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Hi orangecounty240Z - your Dad has a wonderful 240Z and I’m happy that he has enjoyed for 50+ years. It is actually amazing how many people purchased their Datsun 240Z new from the Dealer, and kept them to this day.  There are about 189 of them listed on the “Z Car Original Owners Register” on the Z Car Home Page. Most likely twice that many out there still not Registered.  Speaks volumes about the desirability of the Datsun 240Z’s from 48+ years ago.
 
We would have to see a lot more detailed pictures of your Z - to give any real estimate related to its market value. Engine Compartment, dash, interior etc.
 
With what we know - a ROM - $25K to $35K as it sits. Other than a good detailing, I wouldn’t put any more money into it, as it won’t seriously effect its sale price in the market. Actually most serious buyers would rather fix whatever they want, the way they want. They would rather see it “as is” than worry about “cover-ups”, or “cheap fixes”.   (not saying you would do any of that - just pointing out the skepticism in any used car market).
 
The paint flaking on the hood - that is just paint peeling off of the galvanized sheet metal, usually see it on the firewall as well.  The cracking of the paint in the rear deck area - that is just the tar mat heat&sound insulation shrinking with 50 years of age - quit normal. 
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Thanks, what does ROM mean retail open market?

So it'll only sell for around $30000? I wish I'd done more research before telling my parents it was worth a lot, looks like I got them excited over nothing 😕

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Thanks for your help everyone, here are the new pics I was able to get. I didn't know the driver seat had damage, I've never seen it without a cover on.

I talked it over with my dad and I don't think he's willing to do any work on it. He did remember how to work the radio and it works. I'm willing to handle this for him and my current thought is to do external work + repaint hood completely + fix driver's seat. The rest of the interior looks good to my novice eyes other than fading in the carpet (rubber mats were laid on top of the carpet mats in the footwells leaving outlines; the hatch carpet is badly faded except for lines where the straps were). The engine runs great according to him and has never had work besides the usual carb tuning, oil changes, hose replacements, etc. so I'd rather not take it out. There are lots of original parts I don't think will survive a remove and reinstallation such as hoses, clamps, etc. The dash has never been out and I'm not able to do so, so the tach and clock and heater (probably, unless it can be fixed in the engine bay) will remain non working.

Exterior work: flatten out the door dents. Remove all surface rust. Repaint leaving glass in - all the original rubber looks in good shape but I don't think will survive a glass out repaint; even the windshield has never been out. Try to remove oxidation on the chrome, if not possible, get the bumpers rechromed - other chrome parts aren't really oxidized just not bright and shiny.

Do you think this is a good plan or a bad idea and should go for a full restore, which I've gotten quoted at $60k? That restorer was kind enough to say it probably isn't worth it; the car currently is worth under $40k in his opinion and after restore I'd have to be very lucky to get near $100k.

driver seat.jpg

right door.jpg

seats.jpg

overview.jpg

left door.jpg

footwell.jpg

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I would never repaint a car like this with out removing the glass. It leaves rough areas around all the seals and the paint tends to peal from those exposed edges

If it were me, I would try to sell it as is. Put a reserve on it and see what it does

i would not be surprised to see a bill of 60k to fully restore a car like this

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Hm. That's good to know. So it's impossible to get a good paint job without removing the glass?

Yeah, $60k is exactly the quote I got! 😄  For a full nut and bolt restoration. I just don't like the idea of doing that since in my opinion it's mechanically in good shape and cosmetically only really has problems on the outside surfaces.

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If you can sell it for 35k as it sits or spend 60k and sell it for 95k then why bother? It's the same net cash either way.

In my opinion it is impossible to get a quality paint job without stripping the car

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Thanks. Yes and that 95 is speculative, depending on if anyone really wants it, it could end up being 50 for all anyone knows.

Hm. Ok, I'm a novice in this area, and working on cars in general. I am physically fit and mechanically inclined, I'm usually able to figure out how things work. If I had space to work on it indefinitely, would someone with this background be able to disassemble the car to get it prepped for paint, and assuming I take copious notes and pics and bag and label everything, put it back together after?  My dad MAY pitch in once in a while for things that need two people. How much space is needed? i'm guessing at least a two car garage, one place for the car and another for the parts but that could be too small?

Edited by orangecounty240z

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