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240ZBUILTBYME 1971 240z HS-001063 Project Sheena


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23 hours ago, 240ZBUILTBYME said:

kbs rust blast then kbs rust seal the internal box section

Use some paint that you can weld on between the sheets of metal , i don't know the name of it but i have some silvery paint that you can weld on, ask a good weldshop for it. (i could look for the name but you got there in australia another brand i think..)

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41 minutes ago, dutchzcarguy said:

Use some paint that you can weld on between the sheets of metal , i don't know the name of it but i have some silvery paint that you can weld on, ask a good weldshop for it. (i could look for the name but you got there in australia another brand i think..)

Yep, weld through primer. I’m using copper, upol brand. 

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14 hours ago, grannyknot said:

The trick to that kit is to pre drill the spot weld with a 1/8" drill then the cutter stays on track.

Yep, the kit has a sprung drill bit in the center, I center punched then drilled a pilot hole with the sprung drill bit, once it was deep enough I put enough pressure to contact the actual cutter, still walked around. I just found the standard drill but type didn’t walk and then you don’t have to grind down any little circles after either. Just my experience with it. 

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13 hours ago, Patcon said:

I have a drawer full of die grinders,  maybe 6 or 7. Cut off wheel, 2" roloks, 1" rolok, 3 or four different burrs, steel brush. They're so maneuverable and fast. Just noisy...

What shape burrs do you use for spot welds? 

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2 hours ago, 240ZBUILTBYME said:

What shape burrs do you use for spot welds? 

And I'll add to that:

  • Which die grinder type do you find works best for spot-weld work:  straight?  right-angle?  Or does it depend on the weld location and accessibility?
  • Do you see any merit in a variable-speed feature for this type of work?
  • Have you tried the 'low-noise' designs and, if so, do they live up to their billing?
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8 hours ago, 240ZBUILTBYME said:

Yep, the kit has a sprung drill bit in the center, I center punched then drilled a pilot hole with the sprung drill bit, once it was deep enough I put enough pressure to contact the actual cutter, still walked around. I just found the standard drill but type didn’t walk and then you don’t have to grind down any little circles after either. Just my experience with it. 

I'm talking about pre drilling the spot weld with a separate 1/8" drill bit then when you go to use the cutter the spring loaded drill is held captive. Actually it is the spring that is the problem, it doesn't push with enough pressure.  I spent about $70 on that kit and I was determined to get my moneys worth out of it.

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32 minutes ago, grannyknot said:

I'm talking about pre drilling the spot weld with a separate 1/8" drill bit then when you go to use the cutter the spring loaded drill is held captive. Actually it is the spring that is the problem, it doesn't push with enough pressure.  I spent about $70 on that kit and I was determined to get my moneys worth out of it.

I agree it probably is the spring that is the problem. Oh you mean drill all the way through both sheets of metal? But then you have to go back and fill all the holes? 

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10 hours ago, 240ZBUILTBYME said:

Yep, weld through primer. I’m using copper, upol brand. 

How do you like it?  I've been using the zinc only formula they make and it works well for welding.  I have not yet tested it for corrosion protection.

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4 minutes ago, ETI4K said:

How do you like it?  I've been using the zinc only formula they make and it works well for welding.  I have not yet tested it for corrosion protection.

I actually haven’t used it just yet, it’s sitting waiting, probably next time I work on the car hopefully. Copper upol is what most professionals use here in oz. not sure about corrosion protection but it’s got to be better than what the factory used back in the day......NOTHING! 😂

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I have never used a low noise type. But if it's anything like the low-noise type air ratchet I have; it wont be very quiet. Maybe the low-noise type are intended to be hearing safe

I was wrong...

I have more than 6 or 7 LOL. This isn't even all of them. :blush:

20210716_183347.jpg

Sorry about the rotation. It displays properly on my computer and in an editor...

This is my tool of choice for spot welds. You can tell it's been hot. It's done hundreds of welds. I find a straight one is easier to use than the angle grinder because of the better leverage

20210716_183404.jpg

This is also really nice for dressing welds. A 1" Rolok

20210716_183413.jpg

The biggest problem with it is the pads go very quickly!! They are also hard to source and about $0.35 each. I normally dress welds mostly down with the 3" cut off wheel. Then fine tune with the 1" and 2" Roloks

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3 hours ago, 240ZBUILTBYME said:

Oh you mean drill all the way through both sheets of metal? But then you have to go back and fill all the holes? 

Yes, but you have to weld the new panel on anyway.

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I've bought a couple of lots of die grinders off industrial auctions for $25-$30 for 8 or 10 grinders. Normally most of them work. So I have a selection now 🙂

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13 hours ago, Patcon said:

I have more than 6 or 7 LOL. This isn't even all of them. :blush:

Does your wife know that you're using her bath towels in the garage?  :ph34r:

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14 hours ago, Patcon said:

I have never used a low noise type. But if it's anything like the low-noise type air ratchet I have; it wont be very quiet. Maybe the low-noise type are intended to be hearing safe

I was wrong...

I have more than 6 or 7 LOL. This isn't even all of them. :blush:

20210716_183347.jpg

Sorry about the rotation. It displays properly on my computer and in an editor...

This is my tool of choice for spot welds. You can tell it's been hot. It's done hundreds of welds. I find a straight one is easier to use than the angle grinder because of the better leverage

20210716_183404.jpg

This is also really nice for dressing welds. A 1" Rolok

20210716_183413.jpg

The biggest problem with it is the pads go very quickly!! They are also hard to source and about $0.35 each. I normally dress welds mostly down with the 3" cut off wheel. Then fine tune with the 1" and 2" Roloks

At The Big Shed they buy that stuff by the truckload.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Didn’t get a great deal of time this break, only managed a few precious hours with Sheena. I’ve lost a tonne of sleep lately, tossing and turning in bed scheming and stressing about how I’m going to do this job! Anyone else do that? I’m sure I’m not the only one...

I ground down all the proud spot welds and gave the front face and what I could reach a good wire wheeling. 

975B224A-9159-4F8F-9993-CC5104603CAC.jpeg

I bolted the repair panel in, marked the cut line and made the finaL cut. All the while shitting myself...

cut was good 

31529040-CD68-456E-AA03-5DFFCA05BC8B.jpeg136C5945-5C6D-4C7E-BF90-266969AF4FEA.jpeg

with more room for access I went to work cleaning the box section as best I could. Came up ok and revealed many new holes where rust had eaten through. 

324F6378-9C00-461C-ACE2-24BC907848D8.jpeg93979A0C-BB9C-4CD0-B74D-64216C51C5E3.jpeg3BD65C3D-C52B-4BC2-B1C1-9332F181AFC3.jpeg49B7E666-AF2D-4847-8364-B14AA2B0C314.jpegAC6688C1-271F-4A2D-82A3-CD130158D01B.jpeg

Question. Can I just fill any small holes with the mig? Given I use a rust converter and ensure the welding surface is free of any rust? 

I was keen to get a coating on the box section but with the rust that needs repairing I figured I would save it for once those were done. 

I was thinking of trying a spot blaster to further tidy up the unreachable areas in the box section. Has anyone used something like these? I know they’re generally crap but  are they good enough to do some small areas? 
032B4E45-9ED7-4457-95AE-4AD6FCD37612.jpeg

next time I plan to:

- repair rusted through areas on the box section (I think I’ll be lucky to get through this as will be my first time welding in patch panels....wish me luck....) 

- hopefully get some kbs rustseal in there

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 You can try filling the holes with weld but you'll have to clean the rust from around them first. After removing the rust, you'll probably find you've enlarged the hole out to solid steel and have a dime or quarter size hole to patch. I can assure you that inserting a piece of sheet metal into a clean hole is much easier and satisfying than chasing a hole in rusty sheet metal with a Mig.

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Also some copper to back the hole Helps close them up too. Mind that the copper gets hot very quickly!!

Do you not have a metal shop that can brake a section like that for you?

I would consider replacing that or at least the worst sections. By the time its clean there wont be much metal left.

Several years ago I would have chased those holes. I have come around to the idea that it's overall just easier to get rid of that rotten metal and the chassis is stiffer for it

 

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19 hours ago, 240ZBUILTBYME said:

I’ve lost a tonne of sleep lately,

Yeah...  to answer your question.. no i did'nt let it get to me. (when i was restoring my 280zx slick roof..) even when someone broke the 3th !!!! windscreen i kept relative calm..  The first one had a pit in it it broke later on when in storage.. so my own fault. the next was 400 euro and the girlfriend of my 1st painter broke it while cleaning the house.. but till this day she does not confess.. never seen the screen.. yeah whatever! the third was a co-worker of my 2nd painter.. then i had to order a 4th screen pff.. so don't let it get to you..  Restoring a car is ALWAYS more work than you think..  Patience is my biggest trump..  what's yours? 😉 

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 7/27/2021 at 6:12 PM, dutchzcarguy said:

what's yours? 😉

Ignorance.... lol

out of interest, did you remove the chrome windscreen trim on your 280zx yourself? Is it possible to remove it without breaking the retaining clips? From my research it seems impossible. 

I recently bought a 280zx and it has a small bubble of rust on the bottom of the windscreen. I want to remove the lower trim to see if I can clean up the rust without removing the windscreen. 

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1 hour ago, 240ZBUILTBYME said:

it has a small bubble of rust on the bottom of the windscreen.

Yeah.. thats how they all start to desintegrate...

1 hour ago, 240ZBUILTBYME said:

did you remove the chrome windscreen trim on your 280zx yourself?

YES!  I did, but it was a bit of a pain in the ****.. haha..  My original windscreen was put in by CAR GLASS ..  The people that claim to do the windscreen for any car in no time..  Yeah they made a mess of it. Normally the chrome trim is installed with clips, they were used but also some windshield adhesive.. i had to restore the clips and get rid of the old adhesive.

I ended up with al the clips but 2..  so i think that went well. (especially when you consider that i needed to install it twice due to a broken 3th screen!) 

You first have to take the sides off? (and that means the part above the door.. that connects to the rubber-rail IN the top of the door (I had a nont-bar remember..) )   I don't remember correctly, look in the s130 serv .man. you can find it on this website.

Btw.. i did the same in 1990.. (only in the opp. order..) haha.. bought a 280zx (ready to drive)  and weeks later a 240z to restore.. but that 240z went noware.. i still have parts of it in store!

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18 minutes ago, dutchzcarguy said:

look in the s130 serv .man. you can find it on this website.

 

I had a look in the fsm but it didn’t give much usable info, doesn’t mention anything about the side trims. Though I know you have to take them off first

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34 minutes ago, 240ZBUILTBYME said:

Though I know you have to take them off first

Yes, And they are in between the chassis and the steel rail for the door rubber. i believe you can take out the doorrubber there and take out the big phillips screws (they are JIS* screws but phillips gets it done) and then you can take the side stainless of the screen.. pop back the rubber in the rail and you can close the doors ..  Use some plastic sort of screwdriver stick to do the stainless off the upper stainless strip. (that way you don't mess up the stainless they are hard to find in a perfect condition.) Take your time.

I think it's the same on a t-bar car but i had a non t-bar car. On a non t-bar car there is a piece of rainrail attached to the rubber rail that also has to be removed before you can remove the side stainless of the screen pfff... complicated but.. made/engineered very well!

Then you can .. again use a plastic flat screwdriver of some sort to pull the upper or lower strip of the screen. IF there isn't used a lot of adhesive.  Use a stanley knife to cut through the old adhesive, again taking your time, you don't want the stainless to get a kink in it!  (On the rear window i used stainless off of 3-4 rearwindows! to get it good)

If you ever want to polish those stainless parts.. do it on the car before you disassemble, why? you will end op with spagetti stainless when you even try to polish it on a machine. It WILL fly out your hands at some point.. (NO i didn't do this myself, there where people here who done this and ended up with a mess.. there are pic's on here of it!)

If you want to polish them later, cover the rubber with plastic sort of tape like the electrician uses so you don't "polish"the rubber the stainless is in!

(Make a new topic for your 280zx on here! please!! 🙂 )

*  JIS =  Japanese Industrial Standard.     (a screw that looks like a Phillips but is not, it's a JIS.

Edited by dutchzcarguy
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