240ZBUILTBYME 1971 240z HS-001063 Project Sheena

[240ZBUILTBYME]

4 hours ago, grannyknot said:

I find it is too thin to leave a gap,  I weld it tight.

Cool good to know!

[240ZBUILTBYME]

Exciting new development today! I have sourced a Subaru R180 LSD diff for my car! 

I have a classic z specialist here in Perth. bought from one of his other clients who was selling it. 

Apparently all I need is a front flange and backing plate from my stock 240z diff for the drive shaft join and some adapter plates to mate the 240z halfshafts to the diff. These adapter plates are made out of Japan and will be on order soon. I may also need a different moustache bar but we will see. 

Will come out cheaper than the Quaife option hopefully. Still pricey though.... but can you put a price on not lighting up your inside rear wheel mid corner?

[inline6]

On 9/8/2020 at 7:32 PM, grannyknot said:

If it's gas Mig you'll pick it up quickly, it's very forgiving, however Datsun sheet metal is not, it tries to blow holes in itself. Start with small tack weld for the panels, jump around letting them cool and eventually join them all up.

If you spray with compressed air, you can cool down tacks quickly and make a lot faster progress - FWIW (for what it's worth).

[Patcon]

1 hour ago, inline6 said:

If you spray with compressed air, you can cool down tacks quickly and make a lot faster progress - FWIW (for what it's worth).

This can be a mixed blessing. Sometimes cooling welds can cause shrinkage and warping of panels. I use to do that but I have gotten to where I move around on the car. I come back when the welds are cool enough to touch

[240ZBUILTBYME]

6 hours ago, inline6 said:

If you spray with compressed air, you can cool down tacks quickly and make a lot faster progress - FWIW (for what it's worth).

I have seen lots of people do this in videos

5 hours ago, Patcon said:

This can be a mixed blessing. Sometimes cooling welds can cause shrinkage and warping of panels. I use to do that but I have gotten to where I move around on the car. I come back when the welds are cool enough to touch

Good point patcon as its the cooling of the weld that causes the "pulling in" of surrounding material. I guess the cooling effect would increase the amount of shrinkage relative to a weld that has cooled naturally? I guess if you are doing a small area and are unable to move around slow enough you could just work on multiple patches so you can work your way around slow enough? Would be interesting to know which method the "experts" recommend!

I have also seen videos where people use a hammer and dolly to stretch the metal as its cooling to counteract this shrinking, have either of you tried this? I feel like it might be easy to over beat the metal and end up with a high instead of a low?

[240ZBUILTBYME]

 

[Zed Head]

The engine removal process looked pretty normal.  Many of us have been there.  Letting air out of the tires will give you a little more room.   Wait until you put it back in and can't the get the tail of the transmission lifted up to fit the back mount.

The transmission looks like a "B" model, Not "A".  You can tell by the shifter area.  It's not "monkey motion".

 

[240ZBUILTBYME]

22 hours ago, Zed Head said:

The engine removal process looked pretty normal.  Many of us have been there.  Letting air out of the tires will give you a little more room.   Wait until you put it back in and can't the get the tail of the transmission lifted up to fit the back mount.

The transmission looks like a "B" model, Not "A".  You can tell by the shifter area.  It's not "monkey motion".

 

I actually had the front of the car up on stands when I took it out, my theory was that it would create a better angle to work with but I think it made it harder... lol oh well live and learn! 

Yea definitely a B type. I believe my car was an automatic originally, so PO must have transplanted this and the engine in as it’s a 72+ gearbox and mine is a early 71. Not too fussed though! 

[240ZBUILTBYME]

So these are the kameari Subaru R180 diff to half shaft adapters. They are really pretty....  so the splines go into the Subaru diff and flanges onto stock halfshafts. Chuck your stock z diff front face flange and diff backplate onto the Subaru R180 and hey presto 240z LSD for under 2k! 

My z man has to check the internals on  the Subaru diff to make sure everything’s healthy and then it’s a done deal!

[240ZBUILTBYME]

My panels arrived from KFvintagejdm! Well some of them... did the post on Viczcar and has lots of photos which took me ages to upload so if you would like to check out my thoughts on the panels here’s the link. 

https://www.viczcar.com/forums/topic/20081-kfvintagejdm-replacement-panels-initial-review-and-quality/

 they’re very high quality, I’m especially impressed by the floor pans!  

Edited September 15, 2020 by 240ZBUILTBYME

[CanTechZ]

5 hours ago, 240ZBUILTBYME said:

My panels arrived from KFvintagejdm! Well some of them... did the post on Viczcar and has lots of photos which took me ages to upload so if you would like to check out my thoughts on the panels here’s the link. 

https://www.viczcar.com/forums/topic/20081-kfvintagejdm-replacement-panels-initial-review-and-quality/

 they’re very high quality, I’m especially impressed by the floor pans!  

Thanks for your review of the parts from KFvintageJDM, it's very timely as I might need some of the parts they offer. Regarding your question, on viczcar, about the fit on the outside edge of the front seat rails, mine has about a pinky finger sized gap.

[240ZBUILTBYME]

10 hours ago, CanTechZ said:

Thanks for your review of the parts from KFvintageJDM, it's very timely as I might need some of the parts they offer. Regarding your question, on viczcar, about the fit on the outside edge of the front seat rails, mine has about a pinky finger sized gap.

No problem cantech! Will update the thread once I start fitting panels which won’t be for a bit. Ahhh thanks for the photo I thought it might be a stock gap!