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conedodger

Just Another Damned Z Car Project Thread

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Just now, conedodger said:

@SteveJ how does this wire in? Does it just replace the flasher? Do I need more beer? How many are needed?

They replace the old 2-prong round can flashers that you are used to seeing.  No wiring, no fuss, no muss, no stress.

You need two. One for the turn signal circuit and one for the hazard light circuit.

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5 minutes ago, Yarb said:

Prrfect time to make a couple of extras!!!!

 

Not sure I can. Instead of having my friend Larry make it at the SpaceX machine shop, this prototype is being made at the UNR Technology Lab by my son. He is actually a UNLV student but because of Covid, he has access to the lab up here. We were actually going to make the first one out of wood or plastic but opted for aluminum CNC as it just might work!

I will open source the drawings so others can do this as well. DBW is the shizit!

Edited by conedodger

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Well I'm sure I'm just becoming a PITA at this point, but I got some questions about your adapter...

First, why the two different sized holes? And if the answer is "the larger holes are clearance pass-thru holes for the screws into the intake manifold and the smaller holes are going to be threaded to accept bolts to hold the new throttle body", then there's a problem... You have the holes swapped.

The holes on the smaller circle should be the pass-thru clearance holes and the ones on the larger bolt circle should be threaded.

Other question is I don't see the countersinks for the heads of the screws to attach to the intake manifold. Are you just going to put those in manually after it comes out of the CNC? Same with the threads for the other holes?

Sorry for being a pain! 

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No prototypes were injured by the drilling of holes. That will be done later when I’m sure what eTB I’m using. You sir, are not a pain. 

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Good. And since I'm not a pain, maybe I just need to try a little harder.  LOL

So using my (admittedly incomplete) understanding, here's a reality check of what the adapter could look like. 130mm OD and 70mm ID. I tossed in some countersinks too and it highlighted a potential issue. With a 70mm ID, there might not be enough meat for the countersinks. If that's the case, you might have to resort to a counterbore instead.

In any event, here's what I whipped up:
tbadapt2.jpg

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Hey, sorry to disappear like that. I had work Friday and Saturday, my retirement work week. Plus, I have a vulnerable family member with Covid19 and I get 4-5 calls a day asking about symptoms and treatments. He is my son-in-laws father. Fingers crossed. 

So my son did a rework which I haven't seen. I suspect it was to properly position the holes. He says that he just put visual holes in the drawing for now. He doesn't want the holes put in until I decide I'm using the 350Z DBW for sure. I guess, I'm driving him nuts. I told him it's payback for having to go through his adolescence with him... 

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@SteveJ I might need more beer... I've been trying to find LED headlight bulbs for my H4 housings that have been on there for decades. My buddy who owns 914rubber.com sells a pair of LED bulbs for the H4 housings but they are $120 for the pair. That might be a very good deal but I started to question that when I was purchasing the Superbright LED set for my Z, they have H4 bulbs as cheap as $9.95 a pair! (which are installed and brilliant! Pun intended.) Do you have a recommendation? 😎

Edited by conedodger

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By the way, if you haven't already installed relays for your headlight circuit, you will need to do that for LED bulbs. You need two positive and one negative wires for LEDs, whereas stock wiring is one positive and two negative.

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2 minutes ago, SteveJ said:

By the way, if you haven't already installed relays for your headlight circuit, you will need to do that for LED bulbs. You need two positive and one negative wires for LEDs, whereas stock wiring is one positive and two negative.

Well, fess up! Which relays did you choose! LOL!!!

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Ok so wish me luck. Today, I'm removing the linkage standoff on the firewall for the carb linkage. I had intended to leave it in case someone 30 years from now wants to go back to carbs, but the ZX Master Vac is uncomfortably close to the standoff so I decided it has to go. I searched for days for my 8mm spot weld bit and then gave up. That's when I found it! So why wish me luck? You never know what you will find behind two pieces of metal that have cuddled up for 47 years! 

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I'm root'n for you.  I bet it'll be perfect.  What are the odds there'll be rust behind it? 😳

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Not too bad. I did take pictures, I just have to send them from my phone to my email so I can post them. I then took my Eastwood surface conditioning tool and stripped the rust/ paint then repainted. 

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On 1/11/2021 at 10:24 PM, conedodger said:

@duffymahoney, what’s the name of the machine shop that did your Jeep CAS? My machine shop guy wants to talk to your machine shop guy.

I doubt he remembers any of the details on it.  What exactly are you after?  Honestly it should be super easy for them to do.  Bring a stock dizzy with you, then tell him to make the jeep dizzy look like the stock dizzy.  That's really all I did.  I also have car at my house, so I can take measurements if needed, but again, you don't need any of that.  Just copy a stock distributor. I think you are over thinking it.  

 

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Pretty sure I’ve got a 83zx dizzy if you need something to mock up. Send me a pm

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