Powertool

New Z Owner

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    I own a few (OK more than a few) older muscle cars but always loved the Z - so I just bought a 1971 Z sight unseen and had it delivered this morning.  Ya, not a good idea to buy a car without looking at it, especially an early Datsun but I took a chance.  Other than leaking gas from the gas line it ran not bad - oh and the turn signal is totally pooched (already ordered a new one, as he told me about it).  The one issue it does have is some minor perforations in one - possibly both rear frame rails of the car.  Have most people just replaced the whole rail or can you pretty easily cut out the small section and replace the metal?  Seems to be isolated in one area right towards the rear portion of the rail and the rest of the rail is totally solid.  The car was from Arizona and other than one other small patch in the floorboards in front of the wheel well on passenger side the car is crazy clean of rust.  The wheel wells - both outer and inner, rockers, rear valance and floor all completely original metal with no repairs or rust.  Car was parked since 1987.  Pictures below.  Paint is worse than it looks.  lots of patina and orange peel  - plan to leave it as is cause I love the originality of it.  Anybody have a general idea of rough values on series 2 driver condition Z's?  The prices are all over the map...had a hard time assessing what they are worth in driver condition - a few on BAT looked really nice and sold for low 20's.  My dash is cracked - like most, as it was from Arizona.  Lastly, me head hits the damn roof...I am 6 2.  Leg room good.  Roof room sucks!    

    71z27.jpeg

    71z28.jpeg

    71z9.JPG

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    Looks great!  A few more pics would be nice, but based on the few pics here I would put it at least in the $20K range .

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    Oh...and the gas gauge does not work...I will try messing with the connections at the tank but if that does not work any suggestions?  I hear it is an issue with these cars.

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    Very nice looking car. Regarding head room, there are usually some hex shaped plastic spacers under the seats that can be removed. You might gain an inch or so of head room.

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    Welcome to the group! That looks to be an exceptionally nice car - and you certainly picked the right color. 😍

    You are in the right place for tips and techniques for all of your mechanical and cosmetic issues. Add the VIN and build date to your signature line as it always helps to clarify any advice that might be presented.

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    Nice car. I have a '72 with original paint, interior etc. I rebuilt the motor a put a 5 speed transmission in. My classic car insurance got out of the business so now I have better than they were Hagertys. I sent them a ton of pictures and got an agreed upon value of $25,000. I need to get it appraised asap but for now I'm okay with the value. I never drive it, darn it. It has a nice spot inside my garage.

    Welcome to the forum. 

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    3 hours ago, Powertool said:

    Oh...and the gas gauge does not work...I will try messing with the connections at the tank but if that does not work any suggestions?  I hear it is an issue with these cars.

     Pull the sending unit and assess the amount of crust on it that may be preventing movement. Don't try to move it if it's stuck. Check it for electrical continuity with an ohm meter. If the circuit is good, soak the unit in CLR for a day or two until it comes out clean.

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    Nice find! 

    The overzealous use of padding on the bottom seat cushions may be also contributing limited seat height.  The car was probably reupholstered when replacement OEM style seat covers and door panel were not readily available.

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    5 hours ago, Powertool said:

    Oh...and the gas gauge does not work...I will try messing with the connections at the tank but if that does not work any suggestions?  I hear it is an issue with these cars.

    Start at the back and work forward.

    - Verify that the fuel level sender in the tank is working.

    - Check the wiring connections to the sender on the outside of the tank.

    - If you have an FSM or the wiring diagram you can check the body harness to dash harness connections on the passenger side under the dash.

    - if you verified you're good there it's time to pull the gauge. 😂 240Z... Good luck. (This is where I'm glad I have a 260)

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    Correct me please but I'm almost positive if you touch the two sender wires together the gauge will peg on FULL. (Could be EMPTY)????

    Its been a few years. LOL

    Those nail head connectors are a PITA. I put female spade connectors on mine and covered them with liquid electrical tape.

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    Thanks for all the help (gas Gauge)...I will try and tackle it in a week or so.  I am still getting over the rust in the frame rails....the rest of the car is rock solid with no rust showing anywhere else - it was undercoated and that is why it rusted in the spot it did - about last three inches of rails...not actually that bad....  I bought it to drive...so I will just enjoy pretty much as is and slowly replace stuff over time....

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    I'm 6-5" and I fit without hitting my head.

    Like previously mentioned checked for seat spacers or an overstuffed seat. I also drive somewhat reclined...

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    I also am 6"5" and I have loads of leg and head room.

    Make sure the seat mechanism is moving all the way back and as CanTechZ mentioned look for spacers that raise the seat.

    Great looking car by the way.

    Casey

     

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