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The "procedure" I used is so:

1. Warmed the lens in the refelctor area with a hair dryer to make the white plastic plyable. Not to the point that it would melt, but enough to help it deform instead of breaking off.

2. Used a pair of plyers to squeeze the white plastic "pins" that protude through the reflector. Keep squeezing and moving around the pin and reheating until the plastic reduces enough the pull the refelctor over it.

3. Once you have the reflector off, clean it with a small wire wheel, 40 or 60 grit sandpaper until all the rust is gone. Treat it with rust convertor, prime it and then two coats of spray putty. Sand with emery and add another coat of spray putty. Repeat until smooth.

4. Apply aluminium tape and cut off excess with stanley knife.

5. Fit the reflector over the white plastic pins and use a soldering iron to melt the plastic pins and secure the reflector.

Unfortunately I didn't take many photos, but I do have some more of the 280Z turn signal lenses I restored.

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11 minutes ago, 240260280 said:

Is that soap or paint remover in these pictures?

It is Rust-Oleum paint stripper. The enviromentally friendly version which is not as agressive as the normal variant.

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Edited by EuroDat
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Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, jfa.series1 said:

@EuroDat what is the spray putty product you mention?  Can you provide a brand or specific product name? Thanks.

The product I use is the brand Motip

https://www.ts24.nl/product_info.php/info/141299/MoTip-Spuitplamuur/?pla_source=14&gclid=CjwKCAjw7LX0BRBiEiwA__gNw2FhZ5mUh_K5KI3XxirtSWVF8Ho3S-RaN6UBna96oFDzaxyvTTp8rhoChWIQAvD_BwE

 

There are other brands

https://www.nonpaints.com/en/1k-spray-putty-in-aerosol-spraymax

 

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Edited by EuroDat
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3 hours ago, EuroDat said:

Some quick searches suggest that here in the colonies we are not so enlightened or empowered.  I found the product in your area and similar in Australia, but not in the US.  We have high-build primer and that seems to be it.

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It seems to spray on thicker than any primer I have used, rattle can or gun.

A trick used with this spray putty was to spray the area and than directly after a very quick wave over with black primer. The idea is not to coat it with black, but to give it a speckle so when you block sand you can quickly see the low spots. Those spots gef a recoat and again with black primer.

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5 minutes ago, SteveJ said:

@jfa.series1 - I think this is pretty close if not the same. After all, both are sold by Rustoleum. https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-Automotive-260510-12-Ounce-Sandable/dp/B006ZLQ4HQ

The spray filler is not as thick as the spray puty. Motip make both. The filler is for light sanding scratches.

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4 minutes ago, SteveJ said:

@jfa.series1 - I think this is pretty close if not the same. After all, both are sold by Rustoleum. https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-Automotive-260510-12-Ounce-Sandable/dp/B006ZLQ4HQ

Thanks.  That's pretty much along the lines of the high-build products I mentioned and what I'll end up trying.  It will take several passes to deal with some of the rust pitting in the TS reflectors.

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Hey folks,

 As part of my refurb of turn signals and license lights, I am in need of a few parts.  On the left in the pic is the small/outboard bracket (larger one is inboard) that secures the turn signal housing to the valance - needing two of these with nuts.  On the right is the 30mm screw that holds the license light together, needing one.  I'm hoping that one of our more prolific hoarders might have these bits.  Not looking for freebies, will pay.

Thanks,

Jim

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2 hours ago, jfa.series1 said:

Hey folks,

 As part of my refurb of turn signals and license lights, I am in need of a few parts.  On the left in the pic is the small/outboard bracket (larger one is inboard) that secures the turn signal housing to the valance - needing two of these with nuts.  On the right is the 30mm screw that holds the license light together, needing one.  I'm hoping that one of our more prolific hoarders might have these bits.  Not looking for freebies, will pay.

Thanks,

Jim

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I fabbed my own brackets for the front turn signals when I replaced the front valence with an air dam 6 or 7 years ago. https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/260z-air-dam-and-front-bumper/

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Edited by SteveJ
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On 4/13/2020 at 7:16 PM, SteveJ said:

I fabbed my own brackets for the front turn signals when I replaced the front valence with an air dam 6 or 7 years ago. https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/260z-air-dam-and-front-bumper/

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Steve - thanks for your comment and link.  I actually have the two brackets I requested but the studs were broken off on both.  Your link inspired me to salvage them by grinding the heads down flush and then popping out the remaining stud.  Now to follow the rest of your link with replacement bolts.

Jim

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I was very pleased with how well my solution worked. I don't do a lot fabricating, so I was flying by the seat of my pants. JB Weld is great stuff when used in the right application.

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Turn signal reflectors with fresh faces.  The box of turn signals came with some wiring harnesses.  I'm familiar with the T-connector style but not the round one - 260Z?

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More Work In Progress: License Lights. While waiting for the inspection lights to get back from plating (they finally did!) I started on some license lights in the hoard. Of all the pieces and parts, three lights will make it thru to near term completion. The back sides have been painted flat white topped with clear to cover stains and increase brightness, bulb circuits all checked out, front covers going into primer. The gaskets on these units are usually shot but I was fortunate to find one not broken. To make new gaskets I had some 1/16" adhesive back neoprene on hand so I made a paper copy of the gasket on the printer, taped the copy to the neoprene, and cut out a new gasket.  It turned out to be too thin to easily work so I doubled the neoprene and repeated the process.  Success - three nice gaskets that fit securely in place.

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Amazing results. Time well spent and those inspection light housings look like new.

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Making progress on a couple of fronts - a small plating run came back yesterday including the fittings for the license lights. Now I need some cooperation from the weather to finish painting the back covers - forecast winds of 10-20 for several days! ☹️

Prep work on the inspection lights is wrapped up, assembly getting underway. Reinstalling the ground wire staple is a real PITA!!! A couple of units completed with many more to go, all waiting on new lenses. Also, a quick visual comparison of the aftermarket metal switch (unpainted) compared to a NOS switch.

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On 3/15/2020 at 6:50 AM, Captain Obvious said:

Absolutely. That would be an easy part for 3D printing. My only concern would be how durable would it be? I'm not sure how brittle that stuff is.

 

Where I work the engineering guys rapid prototype 3D printed plastic tools all the time. The material isn’t brittle, is quite strong, and endures in a manufacturing environment. The plastic is machinable, can be drilled and tapped.

3D printers have become pretty affordable too, so much so that the average Joe can afford one, and print whatever they like. The only limitation is their imagination.

My only complaint is the 3D printed parts have that look, the lines of each pass by the print head giving items that 3D printed look.

Edited by Racer X

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If you guys are replacing those switches, it may be worth while to check the materials used for the switch.  You will want something stainless or nickel-plated brass.  You could also head down to your local marine store to see what they've got.  I know mine has a ton of these switches in stock and ready for the elements.

https://www.fisheriessupply.com/sitesearch.aspx?keyword=toggle switch&sitesearch=true

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