startt21

LS1 Coil packs

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    I have searched on several forums and a lot of the information I could find seemed to be old. I will openly admit I am horrible at the search feature so that probably played a large part in it. Here’s my question can someone please point me in the direction of a good right up for a distributorless ignition setup. Preferably with LS coil packs? Thanks in advance. 

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    Probably going to have better luck at Hybrid

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    19 hours ago, startt21 said:

    I have searched on several forums and a lot of the information I could find seemed to be old. I will openly admit I am horrible at the search feature so that probably played a large part in it. Here’s my question can someone please point me in the direction of a good right up for a distributorless ignition setup. Preferably with LS coil packs? Thanks in advance. 

    "coil packs" usually refers to wasted spark systems.  The LS engine coils are "coil on plug" or COP.  www.hybridz.org has a bunch about them.  @madkaw has commented about them.  Wasn't that you that started a thread in the recent past about this?

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    7 minutes ago, wheee! said:

    @duffymahoney  has the most local (this forum) experience I think.

    I used RB coils.  lots of guys have used LS or ford coils. RB is a stronger coil then the LS unless you buy the AEM version

     

     

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    I like Duffy’s set up for sure . His is prettier !

    Heres the LS version - d-585 truck coils to be exact 

    93799087-F483-4711-8E07-30BD7D7C53F3.jpeg

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    Megasquirt and Haltech are popular.  You're kind of starting at the end.  Pick your engine management system and fit the parts to it.

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    I have Haltech elite 750 and OneSix industries CAS

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    Oh no I am running megasquirt. But I can’t see any glimpse of the trigger wheels on these setups. 

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    I have a Speeduino with a crank damper trigger wheel, wasted spark and GM 6 cylinder coil pack, but it could work with COP. Cheap and effective.

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    You can get pretty basic triggering with an old dizzy, a spot of welding, and a hall sensor. DIY baby! You don’t even need to thread the hole for the sensor straight! (Yikes!)

    Yes, there is a trigger wheel on the crank as well.

     

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    Edited by zKars

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    6 minutes ago, zKars said:

    You can get pretty basic triggering with an old dizzy, a spot of welding, and a hall sensor.

    I was thinking the same thing... For wasted spark, you don't need any cam position info at all. And for sequential firing, you don't really need a "good" cam sensor.

    You get the real "timing" info from the crank wheel. The only thing you are doing with the distributor mounted sensor (cam sensor) for is go/no-go to differentiate whether you're on TDC compression or TDC exhaust.

    (As an academic aside) I even wonder if you have an O2 sensor, maybe you could even tell the difference between compression and exhaust strokes by analyzing the exhaust gas composition. When you first turn the key and crank the car, it's 50/50 right?

     

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    39 minutes ago, zKars said:

    You can get pretty basic triggering with an old dizzy, a spot of welding, and a hall sensor. DIY baby! You don’t even need to thread the hole for the sensor straight! (Yikes!)

    Yes, there is a trigger wheel on the crank as well.

     

    A8A48E8D-AD07-4B6C-86BB-463370384159.jpeg

    That is a interesting looking setup on there. Right now I was leaning towards a trigger wheels from DIY and the same sensor, but this is definitely interesting.

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    22 minutes ago, startt21 said:

    That is a interesting looking setup on there. Right now I was leaning towards a trigger wheels from DIY and the same sensor, but this is definitely interesting.

    So simple. That “Was” a points dizzy I think. Any, including an L4 dizzy can be used.

    Once you take it apart, the plate at the bottom had the two pivots for the advance weights. cut the shaft just above, remove the pivot posts, weld on a little square chunk of metal, a weld blob on the other side for a bit of counter balance (very scientific). Machine the case down to just above the cutoff point. Drill a hole for M12 x 1 thread on the sensor at the same height as the new welded on tab. Come up with a lid. I machined a lip to make a 2.75 OD in the case. You can just leave the stock dizzy cap if you want and not shorten the housing at all. If you start with an L4 dizzy, you can get some great looks when folks count 4 towers, let alone that there are no wires.

    Best thing is, timing doesn’t matter! Only one wrong place for the sensor line up, ie the exact same spot as when the crank trigger is at the missing tooth. ECU can’t handle that. 

    I have a few spare dizzy’s. I can make you one.

    Edited by zKars

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    Only one wrong place for the sensor line up, ie the exact same spot as when the crank trigger is at the missing tooth. ECU can’t handle that. 


    I'm pretty sure that will depend on the ecu. I'm confident my Speeduino would be happy with a cam sensor signal at the same time as the crank sensor getting the missing tooth.

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    8 minutes ago, jonbill said:


     

     


    I'm pretty sure that will depend on the ecu. I'm confident my Speeduino would be happy with a cam sensor signal at the same time as the crank sensor getting the missing tooth.

     

    You are correct.This is for my Haltech 750.

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