madkaw

Key way gone wrong

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    Customer who bought my L24 brought me his car to install the engine. It had a horrible knock but ran. He left the other day a happy guy with his new power plant . I was able to tear his motor down to show him some of the issues before he left . He had bought the car and it basically blew up in him 2 days after he got it. The seller didn’t take any responsibility for any engine issues. He had just put it together and knew it was good. 

    Pictures tell a thousand lies. I didn’t get a picture of number 5 rod journal that had spun its bearing 

    60E5D917-4505-475F-9A59-1F5738A69D2B.jpeg

    41E0EA19-AAD0-4401-A9E1-B7560D948318.jpeg

    84CF4561-7314-4FF4-81E9-AE96A6492B6F.jpeg

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    41 minutes ago, grannyknot said:

    Quality work huh?

    The engine looked good besides this . It was salvageable but ended up at the recycle center . The rest of the car  was riddled with half-assed’ness. SU carbs were way out of whack too. 

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    Woof. I've seen at least four of those busted pulleys now. On my F54/P79 I just pulled the oil pump drive gear and lower timing gear off. I cleaned up the crank snout real good first and then slid the gears off. As I did that, I noticed a tight spot passing over the keys and determined that there was a small metal bump on the side of the outermost key. Not much, but just enough to cause some friction when the gears were right at the position where they were passing over two keys at once. The "upset" metal looked like it was caused by a mallet blow to set the key, probably done at the factory. I dressed that bump off the side of that one key and  now the gears slide on and off with ease.

    Also, while I was messing around in that area of the motor, I refit the harmonic balancer into place just to make sure everything fit easy, and it did. With a clean crank snout and a clean bore inside the stock balancer, it slid right on all the way home easily. No mallet required. On and off smooth and easy with one hand. Clunks all the way home when it bottoms out against the oil slinger. Of course, you'll have a little more friction with a front main oil seal in play, but not much. You should still be able to feel that clunk.

    Point is...... I've heard reports about aftermarket balancers being very tight on the crank snout, but my stock one was not tight at all. If you find yourself having to fight with the balancer to get it on, you might want to stop and look things over real good for issues before you crack something.

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    Oh yeah, and I saw your for sale post about the E88 head from that motor... Is that the large chamber or small chamber version of the E88?

    From what I've read "on the internet" the E88's from the 240's are the small chamber and the ones from the 260's are the larger chamber.

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    This is exactly why the 280 damper bores were machined  back far enough so you could feel the groove receive the woodfuff key. If you are off just a tiny bit, it can push the key through the oil slinger. So many ways to screw up a good motor by one mistake......what a waste! BTW Capt.....you want a tight fit on your damper.....some race dampers require up to 250lbs. of torque to install.

    Edited by Diseazd
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    4 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

    Oh yeah, and I saw your for sale post about the E88 head from that motor... Is that the large chamber or small chamber version of the E88?

    From what I've read "on the internet" the E88's from the 240's are the small chamber and the ones from the 260's are the larger chamber.

    Large chamber. I believe there are 4 versions actually .  This is the open chamber version

    Edited by madkaw

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    2 hours ago, Diseazd said:

    This is exactly why the 280 damper bores were machined  back far enough so you could feel the groove receive the woodfuff key. If you are off just a tiny bit, it can push the key through the oil slinger. So many ways to screw up a good motor by one mistake......what a waste! BTW Capt.....you want a tight fit on your damper.....some race dampers require up to 250lbs. of torque to install.

    My BHJ damper is like that

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    1 hour ago, madkaw said:

    My BHJ damper is like that

    I had to file/sand my crank snout after my stock damper's bolt came loose and messed up my crank.  I then bought the BHJ and took the crank and new damper to my machine shop and told them to check the crank for straightness and cracks plus adjust the fit to the proper interference that BHJ recommends.  The crank checked fine and the fit was right where BHJ spec'd it.  When I installed it, I was a bit nervous about the key moving, but it stayed in place and the damper pulled right in using the bolt and only minimal torque.  I'd guess it took less than 15 ft-lbs. of torque to draw it in.

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    12 hours ago, madkaw said:

    The engine looked good besides this . It was salvageable but ended up at the recycle center . The rest of the car  was riddled with half-assed’ness. SU carbs were way out of whack too. 

    You should send those 2 photos to the seller just to hear his excuse,  BTW hope you got a good price for your engine, the buyer is going to be very pleased.

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    1 hour ago, grannyknot said:

    You should send those 2 photos to the seller just to hear his excuse,  BTW hope you got a good price for your engine, the buyer is going to be very pleased.

    The unique part of the sale of my engine is that he got to ride in my car before the purchase. The way his eyes lit up during the test drive I knew it was sold. He couldn’t believe it was so fast( relative term for sure). As he left I told him(27 years of age and his first manual trans car) that he had more engine than car now - so be careful. 

    I wish I knew the guy that sold him his car so I could forward him these pics . There’s no denying the facts here.

    And yes I got a good price and labor to install and tune his car. Like I said - he has more engine than car now in many ways  $$$$$$ .

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    10 hours ago, Diseazd said:

    BTW Capt.....you want a tight fit on your damper.....some race dampers require up to 250lbs. of torque to install.

    Well part of the reason I brought it up was to illustrate that the stock damper is NOT really a tight fit on the crank.

    I'm confident that the damper has never ever been off my F54 since it left the factory and with clean mounting surfaces it's sized to be a slip fit onto the crank shout.

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    5 hours ago, 240260280 said:

    de-burring rules!

    I hate burrs. I deburr everything. Even the stuff that doesn't matter.

    Couple days ago I spent an hour grinding the casting flash seams off the outside of my P79. No functional reason. Maybe I could convince someone it's easier to clean. The real reason I cut the back of a knuckle on one of them when I was working on my broken cam motor. I liked the results so I did the same thing to the P79.

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    9 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

    I hate burrs. I deburr everything. Even the stuff that doesn't matter.

    Couple days ago I spent an hour grinding the casting flash seams off the outside of my P79. No functional reason. Maybe I could convince someone it's easier to clean. The real reason I cut the back of a knuckle on one of them when I was working on my broken cam motor. I liked the results so I did the same thing to the P79.

    What were the tools of choice for this?

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    For the big casting flash seams on the outside of the head, I just used a carbide bit on a dremel. I didn't take any after shots, but this is what I started with.

    I buzzed off the worst of it with the dremel and then finished with a hand file:
    P1150783a.JPG

     

     

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