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240zSean

300hp out of L28 non turbo

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I haven’t been able to find a list of parts needed for this HP goal. My real goal is 250-300 using an L28 without a turbo. But if this isn’t plausible in my case I’ll do what everyone else is doing. Get an L28et. My question/request for anyone looking at this is to supply me with a list of parts needed for this goal and if it’s even possible to get to 250hp cheaply

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So Sean, agreed 100000% with Mr Patcon (at least I think he is a Mr! As for being a gentleman, the jury is out on that one)! :P

 

My L28 with E88 head and mostly stock internals* + SU carbs is doing 232BHP / 210lbft. The tuner backed off @6400rpm even though the power was still climbing (he was afraid of it going too lean and melting a piston). From this point on each pony gets exponentially more expensive. The tuner tells me that with better top end fuelling / triples there is another 10-15% in there but that’s a lot of money for another, say, 20bhp. (By the time it’s fully rolling road tuned up I make it well over £2000 / $3000 additional spend).

 

In all honesty the power I have is plenty enough for spirited driving on the public road and safely putting it ALL down. 60mph comes around in 5 seconds and the old lady regularly scares the pants off Subaru Imprezzas and other exotic machinery. But the greatest fun isn’t drag racing off the lights, it’s the lovely power around the twisty roads. Aim for a lovely beefy flat torque curve over headline BHP figures - you will enjoy it more and much more often, in any gear.

 

My engine was built by very experienced chaps doing this for 40 years. They have built a 300bhp NA motor for their time attack machine (no diesel crank either). Don’t even think about what it cost them in parts, blood, sweat and time! Sadly they are all retiring :(

 

As said already, the power in these engines is mostly made in the head. So time and money would be well spent there. Then there are the ancillaries that have to be matched, such as a decent ignition, exhaust system, carbs etc that make a huge and sometimes overlooked difference. There are a lot of very expensive carbs out there that are poorly set up, so budget for a decent amount of time / money on the Rolling Road with an experienced tuner.

 

You could always head for Jenvey throttle bodies and EFI but then, as said before, it gets expensive.

 

Good luck and watching your progress with interest.

 

*Schneider springs / caps, 270 degree cam, 0.48” lift, fully ported head, flat top standard weight pistons 1mm over, larger 280 valves.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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These posts have come up before . Google 200 RWHP Hybridz and read so,e of those threads . 200 hp is much more realistic and if you haven’t driven a Z with 200 you don’t have the objectivity to ask for 300. 200 would be a hand full for a street motor. People that have ridden in my 155 rwhp car swear it’s much more. Gearing will help with the fun factor . 

The advice above is realistic. These engines aren’t cheap to get that HP goals . Cams, cam gears, harmonic balancers , pistons , valves , port work, hardware, engine control( ignition and fuel) , triples or EFI , $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

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11 hours ago, Patcon said:

This is doable with a 3 liter motor but it takes about 12k to do it unless you are a very gifted engine builder. The head work alone is about 2-3k of that. Rebello or Datsun Spirit build them all the time but the real question is "How fast do you want to spend?"

Very difficult for a DIY'er to hit those goals. These cars don't really need 300hp, an honest 200-225 makes them move really nicely without tearing the drivetrain and chassis up

Well said Charles, but 300 hp is probably more like 20k plus.......

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Interesting. I am looking forward to having my engine dyno'd when done. It is a Stroker 3100cc out of @zKars old car and will have new life with a fuel injection system, Coil on Plug spark, Crank Angle Sensor and Haltech ECU. I am hoping to get close to these numbers with some fine tuning on the dyno.

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An S2000 has 247HP and a great sound between 7000 and 9000 rpm..... but a Z's torque is more memorable.

 

Having been one of the first 800 S2K owners in the country I used to love the bahhhhhhh above 6k rpm on EVERY drive. Then I drove my fiend’s BMW Z3M with the same headline 0-60 but that torque curve was just delicious! The Z is very similar in that respect.

 

S2k was a motorbike on 4 wheels and you had to rag it everywhere to get the performance (and that was part of its charm). Z3M, any gear any speed would push you into your seat. Totally different ways to win your heart. Ask yourself what suits your driving best? High rpm / BHP and less low to mid range torque or good spread of torque and lower headline BHP?

 

People buy BHP but drive torque!

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4 hours ago, AK260 said:

 

Having been one of the first 800 S2K owners in the country I used to love the bahhhhhhh above 6k rpm on EVERY drive. Then I drove my fiend’s BMW Z3M with the same headline 0-60 but that torque curve was just delicious! The Z is very similar in that respect.

 

S2k was a motorbike on 4 wheels and you had to rag it everywhere to get the performance (and that was part of its charm). Z3M, any gear any speed would push you into your seat. Totally different ways to win your heart. Ask yourself what suits your driving best? High rpm / BHP and less low to mid range torque or good spread of torque and lower headline BHP?

 

People buy BHP but drive torque!

What year Z3M?

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What year Z3M?

I can’t be too sure but it was either a ‘99 or a 2000 - it had the S50 engine with 316 ish BHP (IIRC). But what I recall the most is that lovely straight 6 torque laden bark.

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In the end, it's not the numbers that matter to me. I am more about the torque in the mid range and the balance of power throughout the RPM range. Having a stroker with 89mm pistons, stage 3 cam and forged internals hopefully will deliver in this area. Adding the Haltech with sequential fire and dwell control, injection pulse width and duration, variable advance timing etc will certainly help reach the numbers I am looking for.

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4 hours ago, AK260 said:


I can’t be too sure but it was either a ‘99 or a 2000 - it had the S50 engine with 316 ish BHP (IIRC). But what I recall the most is that lovely straight 6 torque laden bark.

The later cars in the US have about 315hp and are very fast but they have problems with frame damage at that power level and thats not a 50 year old chassis designed for 140 hp or so

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Did someone just discover Wangan Midnight and stir this pot again?

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On 7/21/2019 at 6:15 PM, Patcon said:

 These cars don't really need 300hp, an honest 200-225 makes them move really nicely without tearing the drivetrain and chassis up

Ding ding ding. I've driven a 300WHP 240Z without chassis modification. (RB swap) It was stoooopid fast - scary fast. Not that you can't drive it that way BUT it twisted the hell out of the chassis. Popped a bunch of the spot welds in the  rear - creaked like a Spanish Galleon. The owner had to find another frame to put the drivetrain in. On the other hand, my sons '76 280Z (L28ET) makes 230WHP and 280 ft/lbs of torque, runs nice, is FAST, and doesn't tear the hell out of the frame... If you're going to put HP in a 240Z, LOOK TO THE FRAME.

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