Jump to content

Pinbill

1971 240z Refurbish in Denver

Recommended Posts

On 9/19/2019 at 4:35 PM, Pinbill said:

Those reproduction dashes look pretty nice. I hope I don't ever decide to try and do that job, it looks pretty involved.

You might want to contact some paintless dent repair or detailing shop. They have some new vinyl repair techniques that may allow you to save your dash. This is based on YouTube videos. It is not something that I have seen myself or heard of anyone doing with a Z dash. But, it certainly is something to investigate before investing in a new dash.

-D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I haven't had a chance to mess with the brakes. I have been trying to find the correct throw out bearing sleeve/collar for the transmission. 

The MC was working OK before I parked the car. My plan is to take the proportioning valve off and check the orientation of the orings first. I don't think I will be able to find an early "series 1" master cylinder. They are NLA and a used one will probably be worse than mine. If it comes down to it I will take a later style one to the brake shop and have them bend up some new lines.

Here is a post where a guy drilled into the end of an MC, forced the plunger past some corrosion, and then tapped and filled the whole with a screw. I may try that before buying a new one.

https://www.zcar.com/forum/10-70-83-tech-discussion-forum/419200-series-1-brake-master-cylinder.html

 

We'll see where the dash goes. There have been a few high quality cars on Bring A Trailer selling for top dollar that had dash caps.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I took apart the proportioning valve today. I had the inner seal backwards. I am getting fluid to gravity feed from the rear wheel cylinders. I think when I bleed the brakes tomorrow it will be OK. The type B collar for the transmission is coming tomorrow. I hope to be on the road Sunday.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
21 hours ago, Pinbill said:

Here is a post where a guy drilled into the end of an MC, forced the plunger past some corrosion, and then tapped and filled the whole with a screw. I may try that before buying a new one.

I'm the guy that suggested that to Ken because I had to do it myself once, an NPT tapered thread will work but the best way is to have it welded up properly,  got to keep the judges happy.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Got the brakes bled and feel good about the system. The pedal is firm but I haven't been able to do a test run yet. I will try drilling the MC sometime soon.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.