Captain Obvious

F54/P79 Swap Project

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    11 hours ago, Av8ferg said:

    Thanks, if I end up driving up there for work next month I’m going to bring the head a block. But it only gives us 2.5 days and I will be flying from 8am to 6pm. So it might be tough unless your will do do it while I’m working?

    Well I'd be happy to do the motor work for you, but I feel like it's something you want to do yourself. Isn't that the case?

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    Well I'd be happy to do the motor work for you, but I feel like it's something you want to do yourself. Isn't that the case?

    I guess it all depends on what we’re doing. I’ll be there but it’s not until the afternoons. I don’t have a lot of Gucci tools at my house like you guys and I really don’t have any experience in this region. So the more help the better. I’d be the guy that messes the crank keyhole like on the other post.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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    1 minute ago, Av8ferg said:

    I’d be the guy that messes the crank keyhole like on the other post.

    LOL!!   We'll make sure that doesn't happen!!

    Let's phone tomorrow and see if this could work. I think we're cutting it too close time-wise. I don't think we're going to have all the parts by the time you're up here.

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    The two project motors in the same location! Mine's the one on the left, GGR on the right. We'll make sure we don't get parts mixed up between the two.

    P1150916.JPG

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    On 10/2/2019 at 8:12 AM, Captain Obvious said:

    The Canadian Tool Exchange visited last night!!  Thanks @240260280!!
    P1150948.JPG

    And even though I'm jumping the gun, I just had to try out the ring pliers. Seem to work just fine:
    P1150951.JPG

    And speaking of such things... The Ring Fairy made a recent visit as well:
    P1150952.JPG

     

    I got one too!

    20191006_045036.jpg

    20191006_045102.jpg

     

     

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    Sorry for the delay Cliff.  I had misplaced the envelope when on vacation in Newfoundland.  As a result those jets visited Dildo, and also drove past a moose we named Jimmy.

     

    • Haha 1

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    They look as good if not better than the NOS ones.  I'm planning on using the Dildo adjacent pair on a spare set and if they work as good as I hope then I'll put the NOS set in my shiny SUs.

    Thanks a million!  Cliff

    p.s

    Did that radio knob make it to you in one piece?

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    Yes... sorry I forgot to confirm. Thanks!

    I soaked those GJ's in vinegar and rubbed to remove oxidation.

    One had a sticking ball that overflowed when I removed from a car so check them carefully. Maybe a good solvent soak and blast with compressed air would be a next step to ensure the passages inside are free of debris and buildup.

     

     

    Edited by 240260280
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    So I've been slowly working on the two F54 blocks here and I've got a question,

    The two Phillips screws that hold the PCV vent baffle screen into the block... Mine aren't coming out easy and I'm wondering if they used thread lock on them.  Anyone who has taken those out have trouble with them? Last thing I want to do is snap one of those off in a newly painted block

    @GGRIII 's in front and mine in the back:

    P1160308.JPG

    We used different paints on our blocks. I like mine better.  LOL 

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    Throw heat at them and try again.  I can't imagine they used thread lock as high as the temps get in an engine, but it's worth a shot.  I will ask a friend who is a Z engine master.  He will know.

    EDIT, I got an answer back.  He said to use an impact screwdriver to remove them.

     

    Edited by Jeff G 78

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    I just took everything out of the old N42.  Those screws came out without any trouble, and I believe that engine has never been apart.  No sign of thread lock. 

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    CO, mine were a little tight, but eventually broke free, I was worried I might strip the head. Try and 1/4” impact driver with an extension


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    My build buddy hit the PCV screen holder screws with an impact and said they came out easy-peasy. Thanks for the info guys.

    On another topic, this was my experience pulling that troublesome rear main bearing cap.

    I made this little puller adapter contraption from a scrap parts I had laying around. Riddled with extra holes from previous fixturing and holding uses. Anyway, couple holes and some threaded rod:
    P1160316.JPG

    Put it on the rear main cap and run the three threaded parts down into the holes in the cap. The two smaller threaded parts get threaded into the oil pan mounting holes while the larger part goes into the other threaded hole in the cap.

    Put a couple washers under the puller as jacking points and then run the nuts down against the puller to lift the cap out. It's not pretty (or symmetric), but it's what I had laying around.
    P1160317.JPG

    P1160318.JPG

    When you run the nuts down, it pulls the cap out a little. Keep stacking washers and repeating the process until you have the cap off:
    P1160319.JPG

    The FSM uses just the one larger threaded hole, but I found the bearing cap tends to cokk sideways as you pull it. I found I could keep the cap even and pull much straighter out if I used the oil pan mounting bolts as well as just the traditional puller hole.

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