Captain Obvious

F54/P79 Swap Project

    Recommended Posts

    11 hours ago, Av8ferg said:

    Thanks, if I end up driving up there for work next month I’m going to bring the head a block. But it only gives us 2.5 days and I will be flying from 8am to 6pm. So it might be tough unless your will do do it while I’m working?

    Well I'd be happy to do the motor work for you, but I feel like it's something you want to do yourself. Isn't that the case?

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Well I'd be happy to do the motor work for you, but I feel like it's something you want to do yourself. Isn't that the case?

    I guess it all depends on what we’re doing. I’ll be there but it’s not until the afternoons. I don’t have a lot of Gucci tools at my house like you guys and I really don’t have any experience in this region. So the more help the better. I’d be the guy that messes the crank keyhole like on the other post.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites
    1 minute ago, Av8ferg said:

    I’d be the guy that messes the crank keyhole like on the other post.

    LOL!!   We'll make sure that doesn't happen!!

    Let's phone tomorrow and see if this could work. I think we're cutting it too close time-wise. I don't think we're going to have all the parts by the time you're up here.

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    The two project motors in the same location! Mine's the one on the left, GGR on the right. We'll make sure we don't get parts mixed up between the two.

    P1150916.JPG

    • Like 4

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites
    On 10/2/2019 at 8:12 AM, Captain Obvious said:

    The Canadian Tool Exchange visited last night!!  Thanks @240260280!!
    P1150948.JPG

    And even though I'm jumping the gun, I just had to try out the ring pliers. Seem to work just fine:
    P1150951.JPG

    And speaking of such things... The Ring Fairy made a recent visit as well:
    P1150952.JPG

     

    I got one too!

    20191006_045036.jpg

    20191006_045102.jpg

     

     

    • Like 2

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Sorry for the delay Cliff.  I had misplaced the envelope when on vacation in Newfoundland.  As a result those jets visited Dildo, and also drove past a moose we named Jimmy.

     

    • Haha 1

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    They look as good if not better than the NOS ones.  I'm planning on using the Dildo adjacent pair on a spare set and if they work as good as I hope then I'll put the NOS set in my shiny SUs.

    Thanks a million!  Cliff

    p.s

    Did that radio knob make it to you in one piece?

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Yes... sorry I forgot to confirm. Thanks!

    I soaked those GJ's in vinegar and rubbed to remove oxidation.

    One had a sticking ball that overflowed when I removed from a car so check them carefully. Maybe a good solvent soak and blast with compressed air would be a next step to ensure the passages inside are free of debris and buildup.

     

     

    Edited by 240260280
    • Thanks 1

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    So I've been slowly working on the two F54 blocks here and I've got a question,

    The two Phillips screws that hold the PCV vent baffle screen into the block... Mine aren't coming out easy and I'm wondering if they used thread lock on them.  Anyone who has taken those out have trouble with them? Last thing I want to do is snap one of those off in a newly painted block

    @GGRIII 's in front and mine in the back:

    P1160308.JPG

    We used different paints on our blocks. I like mine better.  LOL 

    • Like 1

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Throw heat at them and try again.  I can't imagine they used thread lock as high as the temps get in an engine, but it's worth a shot.  I will ask a friend who is a Z engine master.  He will know.

    EDIT, I got an answer back.  He said to use an impact screwdriver to remove them.

     

    Edited by Jeff G 78

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    I just took everything out of the old N42.  Those screws came out without any trouble, and I believe that engine has never been apart.  No sign of thread lock. 

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    CO, mine were a little tight, but eventually broke free, I was worried I might strip the head. Try and 1/4” impact driver with an extension


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    My build buddy hit the PCV screen holder screws with an impact and said they came out easy-peasy. Thanks for the info guys.

    On another topic, this was my experience pulling that troublesome rear main bearing cap.

    I made this little puller adapter contraption from a scrap parts I had laying around. Riddled with extra holes from previous fixturing and holding uses. Anyway, couple holes and some threaded rod:
    P1160316.JPG

    Put it on the rear main cap and run the three threaded parts down into the holes in the cap. The two smaller threaded parts get threaded into the oil pan mounting holes while the larger part goes into the other threaded hole in the cap.

    Put a couple washers under the puller as jacking points and then run the nuts down against the puller to lift the cap out. It's not pretty (or symmetric), but it's what I had laying around.
    P1160317.JPG

    P1160318.JPG

    When you run the nuts down, it pulls the cap out a little. Keep stacking washers and repeating the process until you have the cap off:
    P1160319.JPG

    The FSM uses just the one larger threaded hole, but I found the bearing cap tends to cokk sideways as you pull it. I found I could keep the cap even and pull much straighter out if I used the oil pan mounting bolts as well as just the traditional puller hole.

    • Like 3

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    This was my experience pulling that troublesome center main bearing cap (#4 with the thrust bearing surfaces).

    The chunk of scrap I used to make the puller for the rear main #7 (above) wasn't long enough to span across the width of the block, so I couldn't use it to pull the center main. If I had something longer laying around that was thick enough, I could have made one puller that would work for both mains #7 and #4. But I didn't.  However, since cap #4 is so much thinner and easier to pull than #7, I can get away with something thinner.

    So for cap #4, I used a simple length of angle iron with a hole in it for a jack bolt. Use a couple pieces of scrap wood to straddle it off the oil pan mounting surface and it looks like this:
    P1160399.JPG

    Straddle the bearing cap, screw in the jack bolt, and then use a ratchet to crank the nut down against the "fixture" to pull the cap off the block:
    P1160400.JPG

    Couple turns with the ratchet and #4 cap pops off easy-peasy:
    P1160403.JPG

     

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    And just in case everyone isn't already tired of talk about pulling main bearing caps, here's what I did for the remaining (2, 3, 5, 6) caps.

    I grabbed some steel rod just slightly larger OD than the bolt holes through the caps. Turned them down a small amount so they just barely slipped into the bolt holes. Here's the pair of them, You can see the machined ends at the bottom:
    P1160409.JPG

    Slip the pair of them into the holes like so:
    P1160410.JPG

    And when you squeeze them together, they pretty much lock into the holes giving you a handle to wiggle a little bit and easily pull the caps up off the block:
    P1160413.JPG

    Sure, I could have just tapped them with a hammer and used the original cap bolts to wiggle the caps off, but for ten minutes of invested time, now I've got handles.

    • Like 2

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    3 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

    And just in case everyone isn't already tired of talk about pulling main bearing caps, here's what I did for the remaining (2, 3, 5, 6) caps.

    I grabbed some steel rod just slightly larger OD than the bolt holes through the caps. Turned them down a small amount so they just barely slipped into the bolt holes. Here's the pair of them, You can see the machined ends at the bottom:
    P1160409.JPG

    Slip the pair of them into the holes like so:
    P1160410.JPG

    And when you squeeze them together, they pretty much lock into the holes giving you a handle to wiggle a little bit and easily pull the caps up off the block:
    P1160413.JPG

    Sure, I could have just tapped them with a hammer and used the original cap bolts to wiggle the caps off, but for ten minutes of invested time, now I've got handles.

    I’ve used the same method using the main bolts 

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    I'm not that fancy.  🙂  

    I have a 1/4" thick x 2" wide x ~12" long plate steel with a hole in the center.  I have always just used that to pull the thrust cap.  I screw the bolt into the main cap and put a block of wood under one end of the plate as a fulcrum and then just lift the other end of the plate.  The caps have always come right up for me.

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Well you know me... I'm all about the fancy.  LOL

    I was going to be doing two or three motors in rapid succession, so I figured it was worth a little bit of time to put together a couple tools that would make the job a little less cumbersome. And I gotta tell you... Those handles for pulling the smaller caps are really nice. I've done it in the past using just the main bolts for makeshift handles, and in comparison, the "handles" I made are a thousand times better!

    When I'm done with the build, if either of you guys want to try any of my "special tools", just let me know!

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Now that the main caps are off and the crank is out, I honed the cylinders.

    Bought a three and-a-half inch 240 grit silicon carbide ball hone dingleberry:
    P1160334.JPG

    I ran the drill while my build buddy @GGRIII manned the WD-40 spray and kept me in-time on my stroke frequency. I think that makes him my coxswain (snicker).

    In this pic, there's an un-honed cylinder in the foreground and one that I honed in the background. I was attempting to get the hone marks of both cylinders in the same shot so I could compare them, but after all the miles the stock honing is hard to see:
    P1160343.JPG

    Here's a closeup of what I did. About 20 seconds of honing per cylinder and I ended up with this:
    P1160341.JPG

    I've got a two second video clip example that I will upload as soon as I figure out (again) how to run youtube.  LOL

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Of course, the stroke speed is related to the drill speed and with MY drill running about half-full, it turned out to be about one stroke per second.

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Create an account or sign in to comment

    You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

    Create an account

    Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

    Register a new account

    Sign in

    Already have an account? Sign in here.

    Sign In Now