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15 hours ago, Diseazd said:

.........did it ever work correctly for the previous owner, or did he replace the clutch with the wrong parts, then sold it because he couldn’t fix the slipping problem?

Tbh I have no idea i bought the car out of Seattle and the guy I bought it off of seemed like he never did any of his own work so i believe it was the owner before him that wouldve done any of it and I'm not able to contact them... side note dont let appendicitis keep you from being happy.

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20 hours ago, 240Znomad said:

When I got my clutch working (after sitting for 28 years), I had a lot of travel in the pedal as well before it starting to move the slave cylinder push rod.  It turned out that the clevis pin that connects the clutch pedal to the master clutch cylinder was all worn out.  Instead of being a nice round hole it was worn down to a long oblong/oval hole.  In addition, the clevis pin that fit into that hole was worn completely down to almost nothing.  I removed the clutch pedal and took it to a shop to have the ovalled out hole welded up and re-drilled.  Then I replaced the clevis pin with a new one.  Mine was worn so badly that I was probably losing half the pedal travel before it actually starting to move the master cylinder.

I know the Clevis pin is good replaced it same time as I did the MC that being said i did not check the pedal itself I'll take a peak up there tomorrow ty

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I have not seen any measurements fro  the pedal adjustment. Did you follow the procedure in the manual for adjusting the pedal and slave cylindrr rod? Don't assume. Do the checks and tick of the list.

A blocked port in the master cylinder or insufficient pedal travel can cause a lot of hartache.

Push the pedal to the floor and note where it touches. Measure from that point.

I made some screenshots of the 72 FSM for the slave cylinder and the 77 FSM for the pedal adjustment. I find it a little clearer. Though it helped (me) to read it twice😁




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