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donnie.petway

1970 240z restoration engine ideas

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I'm gonna start restoring my 240 and I was going to do a ls3 swap but now I'm thinking of rebuilding the l24 and just putting a turbo on it. I don't know much about the L series so are the L24 good to build for power or should I use a L28 or just keep with the ls3 swap idea? 

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I agree, swap with car! I think a better idea, is to source an L28ET motor complete with harness and go from there. That way most everything is reversible in the future when the cars are worth even more. Also the S30 chassis is not properly designed for the levels of torque that the LS series motors can produce.

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I don't know the condition it's got rust but its been in a garage since I got it and the previous owner had it under a shelter I'll upload some pics when I get home from work but if it's in good shape should I look for another and just keep that one original? 

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1 hour ago, donnie.petway said:

I don't know the condition it's got rust but its been in a garage since I got it and the previous owner had it under a shelter I'll upload some pics when I get home from work but if it's in good shape should I look for another and just keep that one original? 

If it's rusty, that makes it even harder to add lots of torque. All the S30 cars are appreciating very fast right now. The early cars especially. The later cars are better candidates for a swap. Especially the 280z. It's heavier and better braced and is already fuel injected.

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Welcome to the club. The car does look to be of an earlier model. It does look like it will have some rust issues as well.

The motor looks like it may have already been replaced at some time, so it might not be a numbers matching set up to start with. 

You can verify the engine number from the stamp below the # 6 plug L24 XXXXXX and compare that to the ID plate mounted on the shock tower.  Would you mind sharing the vin number from the dash?

Just with a later valve cover and Air cleaner (72?) it looks to me like it was changed out. 

The 70 does have a few unique parts that are sought after, but I'd say you have a good candidate to do what you want. and enjoy the ride. Just be sure the chassis (brakes, steering, suspension, etc.) can handle the power you put in it. Be safe!

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The valve cover changed from 2400 to OHC halfway through 1970.  My 1/71 build series 1 has the same one.  The valve cover for this time is slightly different from later ones.  

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The snorkel on the air filter has the butterfly / heat riser feature.  Per a comment I received from Carl Beck a while back, the heat riser from the exhaust manifold was added somewhere about 6,000 units into production, not reflected in the parts catalog.  The car can easily be a '70 production date.  I see the coil has been replaced with some kind of electronic box.

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I'll put the vin number when I get home anything else I should look for? There's a lot of info yall are telling me I had no clue about 

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1 hour ago, donnie.petway said:

There's a lot of info yall are telling me I had no clue about 

You'll find that most of us are compulsive in that way.  The anal retentiveness has to come out.

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1 hour ago, donnie.petway said:

The vin number is HLS30-12186

I couldn't find any number stamp on the engine though 

 

there is a flat pad on the upper left corner of the block on the passenger side. There are numbers engraved in it. They can be difficult to read sometimes

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As has been noted above this does look like a late 70 or early 71. (possibly sold as a 71) The vin collaborates that as well. There is usually a build date plate inside the drivers door jam that will have a month / year when the car was built. My guess is Nov or Dec of 1970

The Drivers side strut tower should have a vin plate screwed on that will have the vin number and engine number. The stamp on the motor should be found in the circled area. You might have to clean it off some to see it. 

I have seen vin plates missing, or painted over.  All this will tell you is if the engine is original to the car. If it is they are worth more being left that way, again as mentioned above.

engine.jpg

All in all it looks unmolested, I would keep it that way if it were mine. I do also understand the allure to add big HP and mod it up. 

I'd say we ^ would just like to help you make a more informed decision on what to do with it, as that was your original question. Ultimately it is your choice. 

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I checked the door it was manufactured in October 1970 I also found the plate on the engine sadly it's very dirty and I have nothing to scrape the rust. Should I go ahead and rebuild the suspension and brakes before I get into the engine that way it's already done?

 

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No, before you rebuild the brakes and motor, unscrew the vin plate from the strut tower. Clean the plate enough to see the indented numbers, Post your findings!!

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Hi Donnie,

 

If you send me a PM with your phone number and a time to call, I'd be happy to help answer questions and discuss things.  btw you have a great car there.  Be sure to keep every part you change. They are valuable.

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Post the engine number - we can tell you if it is within the range that would be expected in 10/70.

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