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Do NOT buy a 123ignition distributor.


Rill Cosby

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1 minute ago, Zed Head said:

You're "bad-mouthing" a good company, based on a lack of knowledge.  I do know how engines work, and I know how to determine the cause of a failure.  You have jumped to a poor conclusion and are sticking to it, no matter how much rational advice you're given.  You're spending more time defending a bad position than actually trying to find the truth.  That's why I'm here, to find out what really happened.

I did not read your email exchange with 123.  But if you communicated with them like you're doing here I can see why they gave you problems, and why they refunded your money.  You just wore them out.

Then why are you even here?

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4 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

How do we tell who wins this conversation?   I win if you find a problem that is not timing related.  You win if nobody ever buys a 123 distributor again.  I'm rooting for me.

What do you mean? I've already won. It would help if you knew what we were competing for.

You made a dead topic "popular" and go from like 50 views to almost 200 views. One of the first things to pop up when researching this product. That could have made one person not buy this product, into possibly two, Hell, maybe three. I should be thanking you!

Edited by Rill Cosby
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You're welcome, as is 123.  They make a good product, and, obliviously, by your firsthand account, stand behind it no matter how much abuse they take from customers.  That's a pretty good recommendation.  They should thank you.

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Hmm, I don't think that's the vibe people are getting from this thread. Proven by almost everyone else who posted prior to you made a comment about that's how they shouldn't be running the show. If you stand behind them, without even reading the emails, how can you sit here and say they are a good company? You're part of the problem, my guy. 

The email is still there to view. I will mention again that in those emails before an argument even began and I quote "Also just to clarify, I'm not looking to get anything out of this. It puts me in a horrible situation being my daily driver, but it is what it is. I'm just explaining my experience and I would hope at the minimum I could at least return the thing and get my money back."

In which the director sidestepped that and instigated. Why should that even happen?

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I suspect there are lots of people like me that haven't gotten involved but still have a high opinion of 123 because I know people who have run them and like them.  It is unfortunate you have had a problem and others for that matter. The main take away I have so far is their supplied caps are suspect.

As for your engine damage, I would want alot more info before I blamed the distributor! Lots of other possibilities there before I would suspect timing. Now on a turbo application timing is more crucial but NA and strret compressions not so much. 

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1 hour ago, Patcon said:

I suspect there are lots of people like me that haven't gotten involved but still have a high opinion of 123 because I know people who have run them and like them.  It is unfortunate you have had a problem and others for that matter. The main take away I have so far is their supplied caps are suspect.

As for your engine damage, I would want alot more info before I blamed the distributor! Lots of other possibilities there before I would suspect timing. Now on a turbo application timing is more crucial but NA and strret compressions not so much. 

I agree. I know the majority have good experiences. There does seem to be a small trend among bluetooth models having more issues than the other programmable models, outside of the caps. But yes, the distributor cap seems to be the same in all setups and should be addressed.

I'm genuinely curious on to what other information you would like? I'm being serious because I would like to know as well to help pinpoint the issue, if even possible. It's a little different as I know the history of the vehicle so I'd be willing to share and that is why my mind is focused primarily on the timing being at fault. Because of one, the compression (before and after). Two, valve lash is correct. Three, no issues prior. I'd have to check the mileage but I'd say 15,000 miles ago this engine went through an entire rebuild. Only a little bit of head work but the bottom end was completely redone, timing kit as well. I'd like to think if it would have went bad, it would have went bad already. That's not necessarily true but man, what a terrible coincidence if it decided to now.

I will get to it soon to do a leak down test and at some point get inside to confirm or deny valves.

Edited by Rill Cosby
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4 minutes ago, Rill Cosby said:

Because of one, the compression (before and after). 

Numbers are always good.  Report the numbers, then do the standard practice of adding oil to the cylinders to see if they help seal the rings.  If the oil helps you have a ring problem, if it doesn't you might have a valve problem.

And don't forget to open the throttle before cranking.  And remove all of the plugs so that you get some good engine speed.

Edited by Zed Head
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I will double check soon. Numbers if I remember correctly were in the range of 170-180 before compression. I'd have to find the piece of cardboard if we are looking for exact. The lowest cylinder, that was not this one, I believe was roughly 168. 

The cylinder afterwards is 130-ish.

Edited by Rill Cosby
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Zed's post on numbers, dry and wet is a good place to start.

What was the static compression on the rebuild? Peanut head or open head? Cast pistons? Detonation issues? Premium fuel?

I would pull the head and make pictures. Could be a burnt valve, broken rings, holed piston, bent valve. A number of things really...

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