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kenward1000

steering rack accordian boots

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Is there a write-up on the procedure to remove old cracked/split boots, replacing them with new boots?

My searches didn't turn up any

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I bought some boots off ebay. Get the opening ends the same is all I needed to do. I bought those metal locking bands for an atv at a local bike shop. Worked out good for me.

Remembering more with the help of some coffee. The boots I bought had step up sizing on the tie rod ends. Started small and went larger. I cut off the first size so it would have a good fit. Those metal bands go through an opening then you bend them back and fourth until the excess breaks off. Much better than zip ties for the steering rack ends.

Edited by siteunseen

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OK Thanks, I'll figure it out.  Will shoot images during the project, willing to do a post project write up if anyone might find it useful.

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1 hour ago, heyitsrama said:

No way I have a set of those and they are too large, pn. k9882 ?

I think that is the part number I used. I found they were a little too large but worked ok. Most people won't know unless I run over them. LOL

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I bought aftermarket and they lasted about a year, bought Nissan 3 years ago and they're still good

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Been on this forum for 4 months, everyone super responsive to my Help Me! posts, about my new-to-me 72 240Z; time to contribute to the forum. 

Steering rack accordion boots were trash.  Bought 23-4459 boots from MSA.  First image sequence is for the passenger side.  Unscrew the tie rod ends, clean the half shaft, install the new boots (had to trim one section from the small end, about 1/2" to clear tie rod nut), fill with grease, install tie wraps.  Start with a full tube of fresh grease, so you don't run out half way and have to drive to 3 auto parts store looking for the same kind.  Doh.

Second image sequence is for the driver side.  Basically the same drill, although had to trim one section from the big end of the boot, so it would fit.  Took the opportunity to degrease the steering knuckle.  Greased all the zerks afterwards.  

Didn't find it practical to count how many turns required to remove the tie rod ends, in order to put them back together w/o realignment.  Way too imprecise.  Just looked for where the tie rod had no grime, turned it in that far.  See "passenger tie rod end removed.jpg"  Plenty good enough to drive car to Wheel Works for alignment.

Hope this helps someone.

 

old passenger boot.jpg

passenger side cleaned.jpg

passenger boot installed.jpg

passenger boot filling.jpg

passenger boot done.jpg

passenger side tie rod removal.jpg

passenger side tie rod removed.jpg

slice driver side boot.jpg

driver side tie rod removed.jpg

driver side boot installed.jpg

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Good job,  just one minor thing that could turn into major, the tie wraps on the outboard end of the boots go on the very end of the rubber so they are tight around the smooth section of the threaded rod.  Where you have them now dirt can still get in and foul up the ball joint.

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Thanks, I'll add those.  Was anticipating that people would look at my procedure and comment on anything that was missing/wrong.

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