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BayAreaZ650

Picking up a 1977 280z 6 Hours Away. Tips?

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Bayarea

Don't get the idea to weld the roof joint up solid. The car needs to flex some and the designers selected this area to flex. If you make it too ridgid you could crack the A pillars or some other area on the car!

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Today I dropped my fuel tank to be cleaned by my local radiator shop. The tank had a bit of rust.

 

What would be good to use to replace the rubber liner that goes between the fuel tank straps and fuel tank?

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If you don't care much about originality (like me) and/or are cheap (also like me!), bicycle tire tubes are a good source for thin rubber. That's what I used.

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I used the pvc type floor edge molding cut to size. Worked great.
aa7a0b80a1ad4004771982c24f6bce7c.jpg
f78ed4e59df2e7b413669c94673d4516.jpg

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Hi everyone,

 

i installed led the newly cleaned gas tank and so far there’s no rust showing up at the Fram clear filter. 

 

I got the Fuel Gauge to work! The only issue now is that it’s giving an inaccurate reading. It’s showing half empty when the tank is completely full.

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59 minutes ago, BayAreaZ650 said:

Hi everyone,

 

i installed led the newly cleaned gas tank and so far there’s no rust showing up at the Fram clear filter. 

 

I got the Fuel Gauge to work! The only issue now is that it’s giving an inaccurate reading. It’s showing half empty when the tank is completely full.

Make sure its installed correctly. The float needs to travel in a vertical line, if the sensor is not clocked correctly it will not travel its full arc. If it is clocked correctly its possible the sensor arm has been bent, easy fix, bend it like you would an old school toilet float until its right. If not done already, you can pull the sending unit out, clean it with some evap o rust and check it over closely. Install with a new O ring and you should be good to go.

I am thinking of my 75, 77 may have a top mounted sensor, if so don't think the clocking is a problem but still would not hurt to pull it out to maker sure there is no corrosion limiting travel on the rheostat part, and the bend to fix still applies. You should get a resistance reading as well, I suppose the full tank could be reading right at the sensor and the gauge could be wrong. IIRC full should read around 10 ohms empty something like 90 ohms.

Edited by Dave WM
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The good news is you don't have to drain or drop the tank to fix this. It can all be done under the back decking through a round plate on the passenger side.   Clocking is important.  There is a notch on the sender that lines up with a tab on the tank. Since it is a top mounted unit you have to be careful putting the sender into the tank. After your gyrate the float to pass through the opening, that float has to go OVER  two hard lines in the tank. There is a good chance that you dropped the sender float and arm are on the wrong side of those two lines.  That would in effect jam the sender are and not allow the sender to read accurately.  I'll post some pictures shortly.

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First image shows the notch on the sender and tab on the tankIMG_0360a.jpg

Second image shows feed lines inside the tank that the float has to go over, then under the lines. You'll need tilt the sender to do thisIMG_0362a.jpg

Third images show the correct orientation of the two top posts on the sender once it is seated. This would be the angle of view if you were working in the hatch. It should seat easily but If there is any binding you'll need to readjust the sender by lifting it up and try again. You'll know when everything feels right.

IMG_0361.jpeg

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I’m putting back the trim pieces that the PO gave in a box. Does anyone know where this goes? I been trying to figure it  out 😄

8BF1164A-846B-4BEC-BF7B-094A6FAB9FCA.jpeg

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That's the carpet finisher for the passenger footwell. Bolts holes go on the bottom.

Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk

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I have KYB shocks and Eibach springs coming in on Friday! I'm looking forward to installing these because the ride in the Z has been pretty floaty. I'm thinking that this might be a good time to install new bushings as well. Is there anything else you guys recommend on replacing/fixing while I am working on the suspension?

I wanted to get your guys' opinion on tire size. I was reading around the internet to see what would be a good tire size for Konig Rewinds in 15 inches for a 280z lowered on Eibach springs. I am not putting fender flares but would like the tires to be somewhat wide but not past the fender. What tire size do you guys recommend? I was thinking 215/60/15 if this would fit with a slightly lowered Z.

 

Thank you guys.

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While you're in there might as well check wheel bearings/ball joints/tie rod ends/idler arm and replace as necessary.

 

 

Edit:

It shouldn't deter you, but be prepared to notice a very slight decrease in acceleration, or the perception of reduced acceleration when switching up to wider tires from stock 14" sizes.

 

 

 

 

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19 hours ago, Reptoid Overlords said:

While you're in there might as well check wheel bearings/ball joints/tie rod ends/idler arm and replace as necessary.

 

 

Edit:

It shouldn't deter you, but be prepared to notice a very slight decrease in acceleration, or the perception of reduced acceleration when switching up to wider tires from stock 14" sizes.

 

 

 

 

Will do, I'll have a look under today. Thanks for the tip!

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do some research before you start replacing bushings, that is if you go with aftermarket stuff. Lots of folks here complain about polyurethane. Noise and ride quality can suffer from what I have read.

Floaty maybe just from blown dampers in the struts. I rebuilt mine (new oring) added oil and the improvement was very noticeable.

 

Edited by Dave WM
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Hi everyone,

 

i will I’ll be getting my 280z within the next two months. I’m a bit unfamiliar of the steps I should take with getting the Z painted so forgive all the questions.

- Should I remove all the rubber trim pieces  before dropping it off at the body shop?

- Does removing the quarter panel windows and front/rear windshield produce better results than lifting the molding and painting under it?

- The Z has been repainted once in the past. Most of the shops just recommended sanding down a layer instead of sanding it down to the bare metal. Should this be okay?

- Does you guys have any general tips on getting a Z painted? I haven’t had a car completely repainted before. 

-Do you have any recommendations for chrome side view mirrors to be mounted on the doors?

Edited by BayAreaZ650

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15 minutes ago, BayAreaZ650 said:

Hi everyone,

 

i will I’ll be getting my 280z within the next two months. I’m a bit unfamiliar of the steps I should take with getting the Z painted so forgive all the questions.

- Should I remove all the rubber trim pieces  before dropping it off at the body shop?

- Does removing the quarter panel windows and front/rear windshield produce better results than lifting the molding and painting under it?

- The Z has been repainted once in the past. Most of the shops just recommended sanding down a layer instead of sanding it down to the bare metal. Should this be okay?

- Does you guys have any general tips on getting a Z painted? I haven’t had a car completely repainted before. 

 

On 6/26/2019 at 7:13 PM, BayAreaZ650 said:

The fuse blew immediately. The combo switch and the turn signals won't work at all and the wipers turn on by themselves.

 

On 7/3/2019 at 6:29 PM, wal280z said:

 

Did you figure out why the fuse blew? I know I'm not you, and you aren't me, but I would want to figure out why it blows before I paint it... I guarantee the bumpers aren't causing the short...

I know wiring isn't for everyone, but...... there is a present for you (and every other 1977 owner), right here on this site....

Check out the download section, specifically wiring diagrams...  https://www.classiczcars.com/files/

Debbie Downer reply: Did you figure out why the fuse blew? It helps other people searching to find what their problem might be when users provide a solution.

I'm guessing that you must have figured it out since it is running, or you're just planning on driving it during the day. and without turn signals.....................

Edited by wal280z
clarification in bold

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4 minutes ago, wal280z said:

 

 

Debbie Downer reply: Did you figure out why the fuse blew? It helps other people searching to find what their problem might be when users provide a solution.

I'm guessing that you must have figured it out since it is running, or you're just planning on driving it during the day. and without turn signals.....................

I found out that the hazard switch was disconnected and some wires were disconnected as well. Cleaned and connect everything. Waiting on a fusible link through the mail.

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1 hour ago, BayAreaZ650 said:

Should I remove all the rubber trim pieces  before dropping it off at the body shop?

- Does removing the quarter panel windows and front/rear windshield produce better results than lifting the molding and painting under it?

- The Z has been repainted once in the past. Most of the shops just recommended sanding down a layer instead of sanding it down to the bare metal. Should this be okay?

Yes, remove as much as possible,  even with the windshield rubber lip raised it is difficult to get proper sanding and prep done so removing windshield, quarters and hatch glass will help get you a better paint job.  Sanding down the top layer then painting only works well if the layers beneath it are in good condition, no bubbling, cracks, body damage. Sanding and painting over previous paint keeps the cost to the job down but can lead to a paint job that doesn't last as along.

 

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48 minutes ago, grannyknot said:

Yes, remove as much as possible,  even with the windshield rubber lip raised it is difficult to get proper sanding and prep done so removing windshield, quarters and hatch glass will help get you a better paint job.  Sanding down the top layer then painting only works well if the layers beneath it are in good condition, no bubbling, cracks, body damage. Sanding and painting over previous paint keeps the cost to the job down but can lead to a paint job that doesn't last as along.

 

Thank you for this. I was wondering if I’d be able to removing the 4 windows myself? Then maybe I could just hire an auto glass company to install back once the paint job is complete. Do they sell the rubber molding for all 4 windows? 

 

One quote i got said they'll sand it down to the original coat and If it looks good, they’ll prep and epoxy it. Then they’ll be using PPG Omni Plus basecoat and Spi universal clear.

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7 hours ago, BayAreaZ650 said:

Thank you for this. I was wondering if I’d be able to removing the 4 windows myself? Then maybe I could just hire an auto glass company to install back once the paint job is complete. Do they sell the rubber molding for all 4 windows? 

 

One quote i got said they'll sand it down to the original coat and If it looks good, they’ll prep and epoxy it. Then they’ll be using PPG Omni Plus basecoat and Spi universal clear.

You need to buy this book, https://www.amazon.com/How-Restore-Your-Datsun-Z-Car/dp/1931128022 , it is inexpensive and priceless, it will answer all your questions. Or search the archives of this forum for windshield removal, many threads on the subject.

Your painters description sounds perfect, both those products are top quality.

Edited by grannyknot
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12 hours ago, grannyknot said:

You need to buy this book, https://www.amazon.com/How-Restore-Your-Datsun-Z-Car/dp/1931128022 , it is inexpensive and priceless, it will answer all your questions. Or search the archives of this forum for windshield removal, many threads on the subject.

Your painters description sounds perfect, both those products are top quality.

Thank you

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