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BayAreaZ650

Picking up a 1977 280z 6 Hours Away. Tips?

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Guest Pmg

Wohooooo!

 

Take the combo switch apart, readjust some areas, lube it with appropriate lube and it may function great after that. I had to do the same to my blinker switch/lever.

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Congrats on the purchase and the trip home as well....

While the issues seem minor, I would still recommend going through all the systems before driving too much. Brakes, suspension, steering tie rod ends, ball joints, electrical, etc. 

While it does have low miles and is probably in great shape, the rubber bits tend to dry out and crack, old grease gets hard and crumbles. I expect you know these things, but err to the side of caution and check them out for yourself, Just to be safe. 

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Thank you for all the replies!

Just an update:

- Ordered some brake parts (rotors, brake pads, drum pads, brake fluid) for us to install this week.

- Here is my tune up list (please add anything else I'm missing): transmission fluid, spark plugs, oil change, radiator change (leaking a bit), suspension, bushings, brake fluid flush.

- The Z is running very rich and misfiring. I'll have to do some research on where to start diagnosing.

- The Z won't start without starter fluid. Once the Z is warm, it has no problems starting up.

- Does anyone have any recommendations for a shop in the Sacramento area that specializes in Datsuns?

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24 minutes ago, BayAreaZ650 said:

Thank you for all the replies!

Just an update:

- Ordered some brake parts (rotors, brake pads, drum pads, brake fluid) for us to install this week.

- Here is my tune up list (please add anything else I'm missing): transmission fluid, spark plugs, oil change, radiator change (leaking a bit), suspension, bushings, brake fluid flush.

- The Z is running very rich and misfiring. I'll have to do some research on where to start diagnosing.

- The Z won't start without starter fluid. Once the Z is warm, it has no problems starting up.

- Does anyone have any recommendations for a shop in the Sacramento area that specializes in Datsuns?

There's a few cold start parts that could be bad or out of adjustment.  The cold start valve, the AAR auxiliary air regulator both help on first start up.

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Add new cap, rotor, wires to your tune up list, NGK copper plugs only.  Many here like the NGK wire set as well.

Look for high resistance connections on the coolant temperature sensor and it's two bullet connections, (needs a solid connection to the ECU to regulate fuel demand).

Edited by S30Driver
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Thank you for the add ons.


Today I'm working on changing out the brake shoes, brake fluid, caliper pads, resurface drum/rotors.


I was looking online for a good jack points for the Z but I couldn't really tell from the photos that I saw where a good point would be. Do you guys have a recommended location? I jacked the car up on the diff.

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If it has the original alloy drums on the rear,  use caution having them turned.  There is a minimum inside diameter for the steel liner,  if that is exceeded it can get expensive to replace them.

The rear diff is fine, as is the front crossmember.  Do not lift the car on the frame rails.  If you look along the each sides pinch weld, you can see the factory locations for the scissor jack.  Those are safe location to use a jack or shop lift.

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Best of luck with the brake job,  bleeding order is ...... driver rear, pass rear, pass front, and driver front.

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16 minutes ago, siteunseen said:

I thought it was passengers rear, the farthest from the m/c? I've been doing it wrong! Not a big deal though, it stops. :beer:

Hey Cliff, it's deceptive, the rear brake line on the driver side is actually longer than the passenger side....     who knew :cool:

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2 hours ago, siteunseen said:

I thought it was passengers rear, the farthest from the m/c? I've been doing it wrong! Not a big deal though, it stops. :beer:

Me too - for over 50 years.  I guess I'm lucky to still be alive.

Dennis

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Yesterday I was able to finish putting in the resurfaced drum rotors and brake shoes. Today I'll be doing the front brakes.


My turn signal and headlight/windshield wiper combo aren't working. Where would be a good place to check it out? I bought electrical cleaner yesterday.

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Hi guys,


I did some work on the Z today. I replaced the fuel filter, transmission fluid.

 

I need to replace the fuel injector because I have one that is not firing. Should I replace all 6 or just the one not working? Is it okay to buy a re-manufactured injector?

 

Do you guys advise buying this set: https://www.ebay.com/p/Set-of-Six-Factory-Reman-Nissan-OEM-Injectors-1975-83-280z-ZX-2-8l-Non-Turbo/24013354735?iid=201509531117&chn=ps

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It would be smart to replace all 6 as a matched set unless the budget does not allow it.  To get to one, you have access to all at that time.  Renews all the seals & the short fuel lines.

The Ebay set looks good to me, price wise and they are Nissan.   My 2 cents.

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10 hours ago, BayAreaZ650 said:

Hi guys,


I did some work on the Z today. I replaced the fuel filter, transmission fluid.

 

I need to replace the fuel injector because I have one that is not firing. Should I replace all 6 or just the one not working? Is it okay to buy a re-manufactured injector?

 

Do you guys advise buying this set: https://www.ebay.com/p/Set-of-Six-Factory-Reman-Nissan-OEM-Injectors-1975-83-280z-ZX-2-8l-Non-Turbo/24013354735?iid=201509531117&chn=ps

are you sure its the injector and not the wire connection to the injector? They often become corroded and you end up with poor contact of the pins. I don't know exactly what is done to refurbish injectors, they don't look to be rebuildable other than replacing the small filter screen and plastic cap on the tip. There are places that offer cleaning services if its just a matter of improving the flow.

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What he said. You might not have to replace ANY injectors.

Have you verified that the issue is inside the injector itself and not something else?

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