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Dave WM

Engine test stand

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59 minutes ago, Dave WM said:

injectors go Click! No magic smoked released from the ECU.

Yeah!!!! Lol, when I got my 300zx system to run standalone It was the best feeling in the world!

let me know if you want to grab the exhaust and the radiator. 

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I hooked up the ign to the installed distributor, pulled all the plugs out, ahd hook them all up. Now these are the plugs that were in it and look terrible, but still some seemed to have a much hotter spark than the others. I will invest in some new plugs, hold off on wires until I actually test fire it and see how things go. I tried to video it in the dark with the idea of being able to see them in slow mo, but the video quality was so bad I did not publish it. I will go to the local auto parts store and get the plugs tomorrow. maybe give it a try. Just have to remember to torque the flywheel bolts, and make sure I did not leave any unplugged lines on the intake manifold. The plan will be to monitor vacuum, oil pressure and fuel pressure during the 1st start.

Edited by Dave WM
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success sorta..

I got it to start but clearly a bad miss fire, pulling #1 #2 injector wire had no effect on the running engine. The plugs looked wet, so I removed them all and did a run to watch for spark all looked good. So not sure what is going on, wet plugs mean gas is there, maybe the spark was weak enough to not fire? Will start with some new plugs (I did clean the old ones up before using). if no improvement I will pull the rail and make sure I am getting a GOOD fuel flow from #1 #2. I can hear them clicking This is NOT your rail JSM its the orig with injectors from the maxima. I found it easier to install the old style rail.

Then my battery charger took a dump. it has a hard wired fuse that needs to be replaced, I did have it connected while starting the engine, perhaps an inductive kick back from the solenoid did something it did not like. I hate smart charges, but finding an old school one is not easy now a days.

anyway I will install a proper fuse holder on the back of the dump thing, and press on.

Finally got to do a hot compression reading 165-170 on all. not bad at all!!

 

 

 

 

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more progress, I have it hooked up so can run water thru it, no T stat or rad just a garden hose connection on the bottom, and a hose to exit from the top. This will allow more extended testing. I tried it again, same results or worse, prob only 3 cylinders firing. I will get some new plugs and swap my cap/leads from my car since I know they are good. Read the plugs, then prob pull the fuel rail up and away from the manifold and manually fire them to see if there is a flow problem. I am 99% sure the injector seals  are in there, you can just barely see them.

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one thing I have not done is to monitor the batter voltage. No alt installed and I don't have the battery charger on while its running. I wonder if I may be having low voltage issues?

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On 3/16/2019 at 2:14 PM, Dave WM said:

the spare engine.

What's the details on the engine?  How much work have you done on it?

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Not much, it was local sourced, out of a 76, had some compression issues at 1st while testing on the test stand. I don't know how long it had been since it had been run. I did some leak down testing and tried pouring injector cleaner directly into the intake (the leaking valve) while it was leaking down. That seemed to help. adjusted a few of the valves replaced oil, that was it.

the manifolds came with the engine as did the complete EFI harness. the injectors were in bad shape, only one clicked, I worked on them with solvent and eventually got 4 to work. I ended up using some injectors out of a 84 maxima after testing on the rail.

has the spark plugs, distributor cap and wires that were on it when I got it. The cap had a lot of corrosion that I cleaned up, I did not see any arcing from the wires, still I suspect a some what weak spark on some of plugs may be the issue.

I really just wanted to base line the engine and get a hot compression reading which turned out very well. I would like to hear it run on all 6, and hook up a rad to see if there is any head gasket leakage.

As to what I will do with it.. hard to say I am tempted to see about a light boost turbo, but for that I would want to pull the head and a new head gasket. OR do I keep it as a spare OR do I make the most terrifying wood go kart, I have the trans and rear end and a rack for steering!!

 

 

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Ahh, the old stuck injectors.   I remember that.

As horrible as the engines sound when they have dead cylinders I don't think it really hurts them much at low RPM.  Since you have a cooling system now maybe you could let it run while you tap the injectors, swap injectors plugs, run some electrical checks, squirt the occasional blast of starter fluid in, etc.  The injectors might be slow to close, I think that the solenoid is stronger than the closing spring.  Maybe you have some rich cylinders.  Hot injectors will probably loosen up more than cold.

Have you made sure that the computer and injectors have a good ground back to the battery?  Since you have a funky wiring setup.  One of those commonly overlooked things.

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14 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

Ahh, the old stuck injectors.   I remember that.

As horrible as the engines sound when they have dead cylinders I don't think it really hurts them much at low RPM.  Since you have a cooling system now maybe you could let it run while you tap the injectors, swap injectors plugs, run some electrical checks, squirt the occasional blast of starter fluid in, etc.  The injectors might be slow to close, I think that the solenoid is stronger than the closing spring.  Maybe you have some rich cylinders.  Hot injectors will probably loosen up more than cold.

Have you made sure that the computer and injectors have a good ground back to the battery?  Since you have a funky wiring setup.  One of those commonly overlooked things.

The only real ground I have is the neg cable to the eng block, the fat ones (same as pos to starter) the rest of its uses the thick aux cable off the battery term so no real ground so to speak back to the engine block. The ground to the engine that I could find was a single ground of the small harness that looks to be part of the BCDD, also had some distributor advance vacuum solenoid stuff. One thing I did not try was the other dizzy pickup, there is a central connector (wide hole) and two small holes, I presume for the different advance that is used for warm up etc..

The EFI harness itself did not have a ground wire, just a bat + and a bat - . Well marked I must add (small factory tags). Going out for new BR6ES ngks tonight, will give it another go tomorrow. Yes I would have like to just let it run for a while now that the cooling is taken care off. It was getting better sound the 1st time (no water) but I only had it going for about 1 min max. I agree that a longer run time may very well work out the issues.

Edited by Dave WM

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3 hours ago, Zed Head said:

Have you made sure that the computer have a good ground?

The what? Did you say computer???    LOL

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If the battery is tip-top charged, it should be able to run the EFI and ignition for quite some time even without an alternator.

5 hours ago, Dave WM said:

one thing I have not done is to monitor the batter voltage. No alt installed and I don't have the battery charger on while its running.

 

 

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49 minutes ago, Captain Obvious said:

The what? Did you say computer???    LOL

Analog...?

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got the new plugs and some rad hoses last night. will install it the weekend with out the fan, just use a box fan in front of it (don't need the drama of an open fan running while testing). I think today I am going install the plugs and crank it ignition off (hope I have enough coffman cartridges..., come CO you gotta name that tune) take a look at the plugs for sign so fuel.

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ok members choose your actor, I claim Jimmy of course! of course dorfmann is prob a better fit!!

Edited by Dave WM

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more testing, new plugs spark not hooked up to dizzy, I wanted to see if the plugs had differing amount of gas on them (dampness). while cranking. Could not pickup any level of dampness. injectors clicking but did not seem as loud as I am used to. dropping resistors stone cold (maybe that is normal) 2.6 ohm resistance on injectors. I am still rigging up a rudimentary muffler since if I get it going I want to run it long enough to sort out the misfire. fuel pressure looks good. I will most likely pull the rail next, its not hard to get at and I really really want to see the injectors fire gas.

I don't know if this is a problem but I do have the AFM hanging in an odd way, that would tend to have gravity keeping the flapping door closed. I did try holding the door open to see if I could get more gas deposited on the plugs, no joy.

Added back the cold start valve that can be manually fired.

Added a muffler so I can run without bugging the neabours.

 

 

Edited by Dave WM

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About 1:40 I was getting worried that something weird was about to happen...  You might edit that out.

Looks like you could move some water with that thing.  150 HP pump.

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I wish I could, I am not very tech savy, YT used to have a video editor, but now I pretty much just load what I get. I forgot to turn off the camera duh..

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A few things I need to work on, clearly running too cold, as disconnecting the water temp switch was required to operate (infinite resistance) also I would like to use a start switch so I can take advantage of the "Start signal" enrichment from the ECU. The cold start valve leaks from the plastic crimp, I replaced it with a good one but the thermo time was Kaput. Its prob not needed anyway as even with the constant water running it prob is too warm to fire (its in the 80's here and the water temp running thru the engine was maybe 70f, which may or may not fire).

Hope the Rad and thermostat will get more normal operating temps to better test out the ECU. Also the AAR I think is stuck open, the idle screw had to be fully closed and it still idled too high from the sounds of it. I have a spare AAR and will go ahead and install a spare thermo time just for the heck of it. I can get one of those universal start switches as well hooked up.

 

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Long range plan... the wood go kart I always wanted to build as a 8 yr old.

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