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z8987

I've been looking for a project

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7 hours ago, z8987 said:

Am I looking at a rebuild?   Any recommendations in Northern California ? 

 

If it does get to that stage, you could try https://www.zcargarage.com/. They are in San Jose. Tell Rob Fuller that Steve Judkins sent you. That way I get a kickback. 😉

 

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13 hours ago, Zed Head said:

Not clear what you're bummed about.  Old parts in the oil pan are pretty common.  People find all kinds of things in there.

I’m not familiar with this type of a problem. I was thinking it’s a big deal. Based on your comments I’m not so worried.  I’ll clean up the oil pan reinstall and move up to the top to look for missing parts. 😀

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After I got the carbs on and used the carb synchronizer tool, when I lifted the piston in the front carb, the engine would almost immediately die. When performing the same thing on the rear carb, it wouldn’t kill the engine as quickly, does this provide any valuable information? 

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Have you given the engine a thorough tuneup?  Adjusted valve lash, new spark plugs, set ignition timing?  How many minutes of running are on the engine since you got it restarted after sitting for 15 years?  Might still be some rusted and gummed up parts in the engine.

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23 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

Have you given the engine a thorough tuneup?  Adjusted valve lash, new spark plugs, set ignition timing?  How many minutes of running are on the engine since you got it restarted after sitting for 15 years?  Might still be some rusted and gummed up parts in the engine.

I adjusted the valves prior to starting the car.  I put transmission fluid in the cylinders prior to starting. It sat for quite a few days prior to draining the fluids and refilling.  New plugs, but I haven't set the timing. I did put a light on it yesterday, but I'm not sure what to do next.  It's been a few years since I've done this type of stuff. I've probably ran the car for close to two hours.  No driving, i'be backed it in and out of the garage a few times.  I think the transmission is slipping. I have to rev it a little for the car to start to move. 

 

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There's a whole carb tuning section in the FSM's, plus ZTherapy has a CD that they sell, and I think that there is some stuff in the Downloads section of this site.  I think that there's more to it than  lifting the piston and seeing what happens.  I could be wrong, I'm not a carb guy.  Good luck.

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Search "Quick and dirty SU tuning". @240260280 put it together. As Zed Head stated above, start with a thorough tune-up using 240260280's method to eliminate the obvious. Not you @Captain Obvious we could never replace you.

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5 hours ago, z8987 said:

I adjusted the valves prior to starting the car.  I put transmission fluid in the cylinders prior to starting. It sat for quite a few days prior to draining the fluids and refilling.  New plugs, but I haven't set the timing. I did put a light on it yesterday, but I'm not sure what to do next.  It's been a few years since I've done this type of stuff. I've probably ran the car for close to two hours.  No driving, i'be backed it in and out of the garage a few times.  I think the transmission is slipping. I have to rev it a little for the car to start to move. 

 

I think I used brake fluid, I used what was recommended on this site.

 

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20 hours ago, z8987 said:

Am I looking at a rebuild?   Any recommendations in Northern California ? 

 

In Sacramento you can contact Gary Cook at Vintage Performance, 916-481-1763, 4631 Auburn Blvd.

He vintage races his 240Z, and mainly works on Z's and Mustangs.   He can point you in the right direction for a machine shop..

Z8987, notice you're in Elk Grove, CA.  So am I.  😉.   

 

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2 minutes ago, sfm6s524 said:

In Sacramento you can contact Gary Cook at Vintage Performance, 916-481-1763, 4631 Auburn Blvd.

He vintage races his 240Z, and mainly works on Z's and Mustangs.   He can point you in the right direction for a machine shop..

Z8987, notice you're in Elk Grove, CA.  So am I.  😉.   

 

Drop by and say hi!  I use to have a cobra, was all hooked up with the cobra folks. I was considering getting another one, but I came across this, so now I need to get hooked up with the z folks. 

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1 hour ago, z8987 said:

Drop by and say hi!  I use to have a cobra, was all hooked up with the cobra folks. I was considering getting another one, but I came across this, so now I need to get hooked up with the z folks. 

Your regional Z club: http://www.zonc.org/

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I got the oil pan on the car.  Lowered it, and removed the valve cover.  All the lash pads are in place.  This must have been a remnant of a past problem.  I'm still having some troubles with the carbs.  I'll be checking in on some of the suggestions above. It's doesn't seem to be making much difference when making adjustments. I've been using a vacuum synchronization gauge. The gauge will hardly move when making adjustments.  Again, I'll start over with the recommendations above. 

 

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15 hours ago, z8987 said:

I got the oil pan on the car.  Lowered it, and removed the valve cover.  All the lash pads are in place.  This must have been a remnant of a past problem.  I'm still having some troubles with the carbs.  I'll be checking in on some of the suggestions above. It's doesn't seem to be making much difference when making adjustments. I've been using a vacuum synchronization gauge. The gauge will hardly move when making adjustments.  Again, I'll start over with the recommendations above. 

 

If the vacuum gauge isn't really responding - then it is possible that air is being sucked in somewhere else. With the engine running - spray some carb cleaner around the throttle shafts. If the engine picks up RPM while you are doing that - the throttle shaft bushings are worn and would need to be replaced.  Likewise spray some carb cleaner around the gaskets on the carb isolation blocks (between the carb body and the intake manifold -could also be a leaky gaskets.

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On 5/9/2019 at 9:15 AM, Carl Beck said:

If the vacuum gauge isn't really responding - then it is possible that air is being sucked in somewhere else. With the engine running - spray some carb cleaner around the throttle shafts. If the engine picks up RPM while you are doing that - the throttle shaft bushings are worn and would need to be replaced.  Likewise spray some carb cleaner around the gaskets on the carb isolation blocks (between the carb body and the intake manifold -could also be a leaky gaskets.

I have not had the opportunity to try this yet.  Focus is brakes today

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Brakes.  New booster, in place with master cylinder.  All new calipers, brakes everything new with the exception of the old hard lines.  The old hard lines were blown out and cleaned of all fluid before installing all the new products.   I spoke with Steve at Power Brake Booster Exchange about my booster.  According to him my booster needs no further adjustments.  We bled the lines today, but the pedal still goes almost all the way to the floor.  Here's what I've done.

- I capped the master cylinder and the brake pedal is hard to push on and will not go to the floor - so my guess is that the booster and master cylinder are good.

- connected front brakes to master cylinder, brake feels good, 

- connected back brakes, we bled the brakes, a solid flow of fluids but the brake will now go almost all the way to the floor.

 

Any tricks?   One person suggested I open the bleeders and let gravity assist in getting fluids through the system.  Sound reasonable, but we have a steady flow at both back brakes.   errrrr.. 

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Do you have the stock drums on the back?  Sounds like you need to adjust them.  The shoes are too far from the drums.  Take the drums off and turn the adjusting wheel that moves the shoes apart  until you can barely get each drum back on.  Then pull the parking brake handle up and down a few times to get the final automatic adjustment.

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2 hours ago, Zed Head said:

Do you have the stock drums on the back?  Sounds like you need to adjust them.  The shoes are too far from the drums.  Take the drums off and turn the adjusting wheel that moves the shoes apart  until you can barely get each drum back on.  Then pull the parking brake handle up and down a few times to get the final automatic adjustment.

Did that! 

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2 hours ago, grannyknot said:

And the rubber flex lines are new and not bulging out when you press the brake?

Yes, new rubber hoses. My guess is they are not bulging.  That's something I can check, but since they are new, they should be in good shape. 

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Block off the front brakes and see what you get. It has to be one of just a few things:

Air, a leak, bulging line, too much slack

My bet is on air if you've got the adjustment right. The lines are long and I have run almost a whole quart through to get all the air out

Do the rear drums have any lip on the inside edge?

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17 minutes ago, Patcon said:

 

Do the rear drums have any lip on the inside edge?

I'm going back to blocking off the front as suggested, and I'll check on the lip. I don't think there is one, but I'll look. I'll be out shooting all day. This retirement is wearing me out. 🙂

 

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I may be out of "line" here - but give me a "brake". I realize you indicated that your fronts had good pedal; but you also indicated that you replaced the calipers. Are the bleeders pointing up? The reason I ask is because - back in my misspent youth, I happen to have removed and then re-hung the calipers on the wrong sides. I am sure stocks in brake fluid went up during the days it took to solve my recalcitrant retardation. Worst case it is one more thing you can cross off of the list. Besides, who told you retirement was relaxing?

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