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z8987

I've been looking for a project

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I think my mechanical fuel pump has failed. I took it apart and cleaned it up, but it's still not working. I ordered a new one at O'reillys, it will be in tomorrow.  I've read a little about electric fuel pumps, I like the idea of staying mechanical, what are most people doing?  Can we go electrical and still stay original ? 

 

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Depends on what you call original. The wiring harness is prewired for an electric fuel pump. You've removed the evap tank and removed venting from the fuel tank, turned the remaining top vent in the tank 180 degrees. If you're an original purist you should probably stay with the mechanical pump. Here's a thread on rebuilding the original pump.

 

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21 minutes ago, w3wilkes said:

Depends on what you call original. The wiring harness is prewired for an electric fuel pump. You've removed the evap tank and removed venting from the fuel tank, turned the remaining top vent in the tank 180 degrees. If you're an original purist you should probably stay with the mechanical pump. Here's a thread on rebuilding the original pump.

 

I'm definitely not a purist. The gas tank, and the venting seemed like things that could possibly be a safety item, so I'm good with changing them.   

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I installed a new fuel pump this evening and ran the car a little longer than I was able to in the past.  I notice the oil pressure come up on the gauge.  After running it a little, I took the cam cover off to see how it looked.  I was looking to see if it was oiling properly, or at least what I think properly would look like.

I then bumped the starter a little to see what was happening under there.  It looked like a couple lovers were not being properly oiled. I have another oil bar that was recommended I use to replace the one I currently have in place.  I’m soaking both of them to get them clean.

When I removed the old one the screws were loose, the bolt seemed tight.  The two end pieced were pretty loose, is this normal, they just came right out while I was cleaning it?

I’ll install the newer one tomorrow.

 

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7 hours ago, z8987 said:

 The two end pieced were pretty loose, is this normal, they just came right out while I was cleaning it?

That is one of the problems with those oil bars, when you reinstall it spray some brake cleaner in the threaded hole, blow it out and put a dab of RTV on the threads and tighten the screws.  I have found a welders tip cleaner a good tool to clean out the oil spray holes, just don't make those holes any larger.

 

IMG_1528.JPG

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9 hours ago, z8987 said:

The two end pieced were pretty loose, is this normal, they just came right out while I was cleaning it?

Haha! I think it depends on your definition of "normal".

If you mean "Do they all do that?", then the answer is "Yes."
If you mean "Is it really supposed to do that?" then the answer is "No."

It would be abnormal if yours didn't fall apart. Up for philosophical debate if the corollary to that means yours is normal.

Anyway, jokes aside, that's the whole reason you're replacing yours with the newer design.   :beer:

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8 minutes ago, Captain Obvious said:

Haha! I think it depends on your definition of "normal".

If you mean "Do they all do that?", then the answer is "Yes."
If you mean "Is it really supposed to do that?" then the answer is "No."

It would be abnormal if yours didn't fall apart. Up for philosophical debate if the corollary to that means yours is normal.

Anyway, jokes aside, that's the whole reason you're replacing yours with the newer design.   :beer:

Thank you. 

 

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I've been using THE SKYBRYTE COMPANY 1275 OSPHO GAL Metal Treatment Coating, should I use a respirator when using this product? 

 

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Ospho is an acid and you shouldn't be inhaling it. I normally do that kind of stuff outside but I don't normally wear a respirator. As long as you can't really smell it you should be good. Of course I could be wrong...

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I took my radiator in to have it boiled today. The guy said he thought it had been re-cored, or repaired.  It has three rows of fins, my understanding is the original had two rows?  Here's a few pictures 

 

 

0149177ed1bdd65c78188f920539d13c79fe1c0032.jpg017ce93fcb6ecf7b5738c370338ca275a3b8cc07f2.jpg01a029f0d024ff5dadcac4ef7a7d39b67e05858d5f.jpg

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When you were talking about the radiator earlier, I almost chimed in to say you could keep the stock look and just go to a three row radiator core if cooling is an issue. Evidently that has already happened. You shouldn't have cooling issues, at least due to the available cooling area...

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12 hours ago, z8987 said:

I took my radiator in to have it boiled today. The guy said he thought it had been re-cored, or repaired.  It has three rows of fins, my understanding is the original had two rows?  Here's a few pictures 

 

 

0149177ed1bdd65c78188f920539d13c79fe1c0032.jpg017ce93fcb6ecf7b5738c370338ca275a3b8cc07f2.jpg01a029f0d024ff5dadcac4ef7a7d39b67e05858d5f.jpg

Cars fitted with AC usually had 3 row radiators . The stock radiators flow really well.

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2 hours ago, madkaw said:

Cars fitted with AC usually had 3 row radiators . The stock radiators flow really well.

My car had the dealer-installed A/C when I bought it new, the original 2-row was in place.  It did not hold up well and after several repairs I had it re-cored with a three row, still in the car today.

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20 hours ago, Patcon said:

When you were talking about the radiator earlier, I almost chimed in to say you could keep the stock look and just go to a three row radiator core if cooling is an issue. Evidently that has already happened. You shouldn't have cooling issues, at least due to the available cooling area...

Any idea if  this is stock? Is the top and bottom stock? If it’s bad I might replace the core with aluminum and keep the rest original? Thoughts? 

 

In in the process of replacing my heater hoses. The grommets on the firewall are bad, any idea where I can get replacements? 

 

This photo shows the fit of my tank with the original long strap. It’s pretty tight. My tank may have expanded during the boiling, any ideas how to make this fit? 

0D7E7B0E-03DF-401C-8EC8-20B5B900B750.jpeg

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44 minutes ago, jfa.series1 said:

Your tanks and frame are stock.  The lower tank shows the radiator came out of an automatic transmission car.

Your grommets are here: https://www.240zrubberparts.com/apps/webstore/products/show/4842851

And... I have a set of Nissan NOS grommets for $30 if you are interested.

I don't know what "NOS Grommets" are, but I think I'm interested.  

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“new old stock”


72 body and block, everything else 71, Tokico springs, Illumina, R180 CLSD, 83 close ratio, 3.90 gears, Ztherapy SUs, BRE 15X7 Libre wheels and BRE front spoiler.

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3 minutes ago, 7tooZ said:

“new old stock”


72 body and block, everything else 71, Tokico springs, Illumina, R180 CLSD, 83 close ratio, 3.90 gears, Ztherapy SUs, BRE 15X7 Libre wheels and BRE front spoiler.

I also don't know what they are for. Are they the grommets I need, plus some, or just the ones I need?  Sorry, I'm new to this.  

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15 hours ago, z8987 said:

I don't know what "NOS Grommets" are, but I think I'm interested.  

Let me help a bit with your knowledge base.

NOS = New Old Stock

New = not used; Old Stock = not recently produced.  A lot of NOS parts are also NLA = No Longer Available, as such are often valued to restorers who want high accuracy and won't accept used or reproduction parts.

These grommets go in the firewall where your heater hoses pass thru from the engine bay to the heater core inside.  The grommets I have are NOS but are still available from Nissan - see this link: https://www.courtesyparts.com/oem-parts/nissan-grommet-rubber-2724328500.  I also gave you a link to aftermarket reproductions for $25/set plus shipping.

The new Nissan ones will cost you at least $21.68 each plus tax, your local dealer can probably order them and you can likely pick them up there to avoid shipping costs.  The set I have are $30, including postage.  If still interested, PM me and we can complete the transaction.

Jim

 

100_3339.JPG

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2 hours ago, jfa.series1 said:

Let me help a bit with your knowledge base.

NOS = New Old Stock

New = not used; Old Stock = not recently produced.  A lot of NOS parts are also NLA = No Longer Available, as such are often valued to restorers who want high accuracy and won't accept used or reproduction parts.

These grommets go in the firewall where your heater hoses pass thru from the engine bay to the heater core inside.  The grommets I have are NOS but are still available from Nissan - see this link: https://www.courtesyparts.com/oem-parts/nissan-grommet-rubber-2724328500.  I also gave you a link to aftermarket reproductions for $25/set plus shipping.

The new Nissan ones will cost you at least $21.68 each plus tax, your local dealer can probably order them and you can likely pick them up there to avoid shipping costs.  The set I have are $30, including postage.  If still interested, PM me and we can complete the transaction.

Jim

 

100_3339.JPG

PM sent

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I took my radiator in to have it boiled and tested. It was leaking.  I was given lots of options. I chose to have it re-cored with three aluminum rows.  So, it will have the old look with a new aluminum core. $578 .  

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On 3/7/2019 at 8:34 AM, z8987 said:

I took my radiator in to have it boiled and tested. It was leaking.  I was given lots of options. I chose to have it re-cored with three aluminum rows.  So, it will have the old look with a new aluminum core. $578 .  

With my radiator out and the rust and other gunk that came out of it, is there something i should to clean out the coolent portion of my engine block?  If so what ? 

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