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z8987

I've been looking for a project

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I've been looking for a project. I've been mostly looking at 4x4 old truck stuff.  The other day a friend of mine asked me to help him move a 1984 veet that he just bought for $500.  When we got there he mentioned there was a 240z there that the guy was also selling.  I looked at the z took a few pictures and today the car is sitting in my garage.  I had no idea my next project car was going to be a z car. I've always loved these cars. I was born in 1960, so the 1970 is just about the time I was starting to see and feel things.  This car was one of my first loves. I've never drove one. This will be the first z I've ever driven.  The man that owned it before me loved it. He drove it for years and then bought the 1984 vet and quit driving the z.  It's been sitting covered for 15 years in his garage.  He passed away and his son wanted the car gone.  No problem.  THe son also turned out to be somebody that recognized me from years ago. Our paths have passed in the past. 

I got in touch with Carl Beck. I knew very little about the car with the exception of how I fell in love with the car years ago.  Carl provided me with enough information for me to make the decision to invest the $3500 in the car the seller was asking.   

01eeab4ee936e3c278db48af6428e7aa2baf149399.jpg

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Welcome @z8987 !

Tantalizing photo! Hopefully just  the start of your Z story. If Carl steered you, you got sage advice regarding Z cars.

A $3500.00 entry fee into this world is unheard of these days, so congratulations on your purchase. From the photo it looks to be a really nice start. Please post more. (your first project is to adjust the wipers to a proper park position---LOL)

Judging by what you have said, the Z may be among the best bucks you could spend to return to a remembered moment in your life.

Again---Welcome---you've got a lot to enjoy ahead!

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Welcome aboard.  You'll love how easy they are to work on and all the info that's out there already. Whatever you run into has been done 1000 times before but now with photos. 

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I got the left rear wheel off. I had to use a wheel puller. I'm working on the right rear. I just removed the cam cover.

017ee3c486b12f3a955e88a84aac6692a8b7333c21.jpg

01994e6307c02234bb186cbcff9d138687a0cd5543.jpg

011292bf228f6c5e2caea5c3755891c5788467b121.jpg

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Hard to tell from the picture - but the valve train doesn't look to bad for a 50 year old. Oil bar is still intact.. Looks like a spare from a 260Z. Glad you were able to get the rear drums off - without destroying them. Take your time and enjoy the process..

Carl B.

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The oil spray bar is there, but it's not to be trusted. The tell-tale angle of the tips says it's at high risk of coming apart soon. Especially at the rear.

I'd get a replacement in there before you put any significant time on the motor.

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3 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

@z8987 if it's still available, you should buy the (newer design) oil spray bar all the way on the right in this pic:
164B79BE-DF5A-4AD6-81A8-07379C119282.jpeg

Parts for sale by @madkaw in this thread:
https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/60915-various-datsun-engine-parts/

 

If it's that important, is it possible to get a new one?  

 

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I got the fuel tank out. Off to get it cleaned and lined.  A stop at harbor freight to pick up some xl 7mm glove and a crows foot for torquing my valves.   If I was to make a tool for adjusting valves what would it look like ?  has anybody done this, or is there a special tool already made.  

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1 hour ago, z8987 said:

If it's that important, is it possible to get a new one? 

Don't think so. Last I looked, there were a couple people out there in the ether that make aftermarket replacements, but I think the design of the factory parts (the newer version at least) are better. There were two revisions from the factory... The early ones (like what you have on your car) sucked because they fell apart (like what yours is ready to do). The later version (like the one on the far right in that pic) were put into service to replace the early ones and do not suffer the same fate.

I actually don't know if they are still available at Nissan new. I think you should check and report back.   :geek:

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Angled feeler gauge,14mm and 17mm wrenches plus 17mm crows foot is all you need.  I started out rolling my car to get the lobes up but buying a remote starter was a lot easier.

The lobes come 2 at a time so to get it done quicker I made a cardboard, actually a piece of a beer box, template i guess you could call it with 12 spots. Intake and exhaust with the numbers written on there. Do the two and mark them off as you go. I put mine under the passenger wiper. Let me see if i can find it...

59ff3fa45618b_valveadjustmenttools.jpg.2ceec37b12dbf1bf8232fce8023233ad.jpg

Hold the 14mm while you tighten the 17mm. They'll turn on you and get out of spec. 

Good luck. Once and you're a pro, simple to do after you figure it out.

Oh yeah, the motor is tilted. Take a Sharpie and draw a center line on the cam towers to use for getting the lobes pointed up right.

 

Edited by siteunseen
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1 hour ago, siteunseen said:

Angled feeler gauge,14mm and 17mm wrenches plus 17mm crows foot is all you need.  I started out rolling my car to get the lobes up but buying a remote starter was a lot easier.

The lobes come 2 at a time so to get it done quicker I made a cardboard, actually a piece of a beer box, template i guess you could call it with 12 spots. Intake and exhaust with the numbers written on there. Do the two and mark them off as you go. I put mine under the passenger wiper. Let me see if i can find it...

59ff3fa45618b_valveadjustmenttools.jpg.2ceec37b12dbf1bf8232fce8023233ad.jpg

Hold the 14mm while you tighten the 17mm. They'll turn on you and get out of spec. 

 

Oh yeah, the motor is tilted. Take a Sharpie and draw a center line on the cam towers to use for getting the lobes pointed up right.

 

"

Oh yeah, the motor is tilted. Take a Sharpie and draw a center line on the cam towers to use for getting the lobes pointed up right".

 

I'm not sure what you mean by this.  Can you try explaining another way?  Sorry, I want to understand, I'm just a little slow some times? 

 

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Does the vent line that has a "U turn" in it need to have that u turn for a functional reason?  If not, I think I'll have the guys that are cleaning my tank reverse it?  Good idea, bad? 

 

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Motor tilts to the passenger's side. Make a line down the center of the cam towers so your lobes will be straight up to the tilted motor. If you have them pointed straight up to your eyes they're off a little.

That 180 degree evap hose has to be done or it won't vent right. It will pinch and cause fumes not to evacuate to the tank. I used two 90s PEX 3/4" to make mine. I can find a pic later or google "90 degree pex siteunseen classiczcars.com" I'm using my phone and don't have access to my info on my laptop.

I can do better tomorrow  when I'm home with my computer.

 

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If the shop will reverse the output from that vent to eliminate the need for a 180 degree turn in the hose - DO IT - far better solution. There is no need for the hose to be bent, nor reason that vent points the wrong way.

 

 

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I called and had them reverse the vent tube that has a "u turn" in it. 

 

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Might as well have them block off the rest of the unused vent and evaporative tubes while it's there..

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You'll probably notice that a part of each cam lobe has a brown stain, where the rocker arm did not wear on it.  That is the base circle, where you'll be setting the "lash", or gap.  You don't have to be exact on the cam lobes up or down, you can also check that you're around the middle of the stained area.

Some people take pride in doing them hot, but many just do them all cold, then check them when hot.  They're usually still in spec.  One tip - use a heavy hammer to tap the lock nut loose.  They can be incredibly tight.  Many of us have oil in our blood now from busting knuckles while adjusting valve lash.

Here's the 1976 specs.

image.png

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4 hours ago, Zed Head said:

You'll probably notice that a part of each cam lobe has a brown stain, where the rocker arm did not wear on it.  That is the base circle, where you'll be setting the "lash", or gap.  You don't have to be exact on the cam lobes up or down, you can also check that you're around the middle of the stained area.

Some people take pride in doing them hot, but many just do them all cold, then check them when hot.  They're usually still in spec.  One tip - use a heavy hammer to tap the lock nut loose.  They can be incredibly tight.  Many of us have oil in our blood now from busting knuckles while adjusting valve lash.

Here's the 1976 specs.

image.png

Thank you.  I set the valves cold.  It took me awhile to figure out that keeping the lock nut fairly tight helps. Also, I took the gauges out of the stack and then just put them on the outside of the stack for the next time I need them. 

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5 hours ago, Carl Beck said:

Might as well have them block off the rest of the unused vent and evaporative tubes while it's there..

Are you telling me that none of the vent tubes are necessary?  

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9 hours ago, z8987 said:

Are you telling me that none of the vent tubes are necessary?  

The only Vent that is necessary - is the one you are having turned around. The one on the lower part of the tank and the one of the other side of the top of the tank should be plugged.

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18 hours ago, Carl Beck said:

Might as well have them block off the rest of the unused vent and evaporative tubes while it's there..

Done. Only one vent 

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