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z8987

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50 minutes ago, z8987 said:

I was told today that blocking off these vents limits the ability to fill the tank and that I should put it back to original??  A little confused about this.

 

Also, I’m looking for a clutch box and peddle for a series 1.  I’m planning on installing a manual transmission to replace the auto? 

So you fixed the venting issue by reversing the direction. The vent on the rear with the 180 turn in the hose does cause the tank to not fill all of the way if blocked. I had that issue recently when the hose collapsed. Just run a straight hose up to your tank next to the fill tube.  
I would be curious how your tank turns out and what it cost you. If you don’t mind. 

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14 hours ago, 7tooZ said:

So you fixed the venting issue by reversing the direction. The vent on the rear with the 180 turn in the hose does cause the tank to not fill all of the way if blocked. I had that issue recently when the hose collapsed. Just run a straight hose up to your tank next to the fill tube.  
I would be curious how your tank turns out and what it cost you. If you don’t mind. 

I still need a clutch box?  Any ideas on where I can get one?

 

Also, 7tooZ. My tank seems to be working fine.  I had it boiled and lined. I don't recall the cost. I'll look around for the receipt. I'm in California, I don't know the exchange rate for the sane world. 

 

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What about suspension?  I drove the car yesterday. The first time it's been on the road in 15 years.  I'm sure there is a way to modernize the suspension. I'm talking to a guy that work's on Z's and he has some ideas.  I'm wondering what people here have done.

 

It will probably never see the track. I'd consider the car a daily driver. If I modernize the suspension, I don't want it to ride rougher. It should ride as nice as it does now or better? 

 

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1 hour ago, z8987 said:

 I'm wondering what people here have done.

 I'd consider the car a daily driver. If I modernize the suspension, I don't want it to ride rougher. It should ride as nice as it does now or better? 

New shocks.  KYB's are popular.  They give a good ride.

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Fresh Tires close to the original size will work wonders for both ride and handling.  195/70x14's - 205/60x15's will work, but steering is a little harder and wider tires tend to "track" or follow the road more. Very important to assure you have good bushings in the Tension/Compression rods.  KYBs are good if you can still get them, Tokico gas pressures are fine as well.  Stock spring rates are fine, a slightly larger diameter front anti-sway bar improves handling without having too much effect on ride quality.

 

 

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2 hours ago, Carl Beck said:

Fresh Tires close to the original size will work wonders for both ride and handling.  195/70x14's - 205/60x15's will work, but steering is a little harder and wider tires tend to "track" or follow the road more. Very important to assure you have good bushings in the Tension/Compression rods.  KYBs are good if you can still get them, Tokico gas pressures are fine as well.  Stock spring rates are fine, a slightly larger diameter front anti-sway bar improves handling without having too much effect on ride quality.

 

 

I had a guy that works on z’s look at my car.  He’s the one that fixed my brakes.  He said I should probably replace the ball joints.  I looked in the articles section to see if there were any documents on replacing ball joints, and whatever els may need to be changed out in the suspension.  Are there things that I should replace just as a good thing to do for a car that is 50 years old and hasn’t been driven in 15 years. I’m just talking about the suspension for now? 

 

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Now that I'm driving the car on a regular basis I need to fix the windows and get a better seal on the doors.  The passengers side door window doesn't roll up at all. The drivers side rolls up if I pull it up while turning the handle.  Can I just replace the mechanisms inside the door?   What about the seals in the doors and windows.  They are all original, should I replace them, or is there a way to get more life out of them? 

 

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Seems like MSA sales weather stripping piece by piece? there's also an alternative donor car that works. Can't remember which though, Yugo maybe but it's a junkyard thing you go pull off. It's a Kia car! brain fart with Yugo.

Google "kia weather stripping classiczcars.com" there's tons of info on it.

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1 hour ago, z8987 said:

Now that I'm driving the car on a regular basis I need to fix the windows and get a better seal on the doors.  The passengers side door window doesn't roll up at all. The drivers side rolls up if I pull it up while turning the handle.  Can I just replace the mechanisms inside the door?   What about the seals in the doors and windows.  They are all original, should I replace them, or is there a way to get more life out of them? 

Most of the time - the problem with windows rolling up/down are caused by the felt pads and seals in the window door frames. You have to take the door apart - pull the window frames out - and replace the felt and rubber seals. Many times the plastic rollers on the window lift will be gone as well.. but cleaning and new grease will solve most problems.

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5 hours ago, Carl Beck said:

Most of the time - the problem with windows rolling up/down are caused by the felt pads and seals in the window door frames. You have to take the door apart - pull the window frames out - and replace the felt and rubber seals. Many times the plastic rollers on the window lift will be gone as well.. but cleaning and new grease will solve most problems.

Do you know of a window parts kit?  or which one is best ? 

 

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