ryanotown22

78 door alignment help

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    My original door fits fine but has dents so I picked up a replacement door
     Problem is I can’t get the door to line up at the top and bottom unless I take out the bolts on the bottom bracket and move the door out. The only way I can think about fixing this is cutting out the door captive nuts and welding them where I need.
    Original door
    9wwmzVK.jpg&key=ff59a67111f59f3b0e93ec3c5bf5d69240ce17dba3b2941c77b9acadf26481b8
     
    New door
    YiNXLef.jpg&key=5ec45c91773a9ce9912a2bf87db33a6e259595be5dfab658839cda39f0f46627
     
    Bolt alignment to get the door flush as you can see this is beyond enlarging the holes on the brackets
    VEVr96W.jpg&key=d45e0fcab4e392f005d16dfa124f37cd54ee848cfbf91e108cfad8495b07bac4
     
     
    Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

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    1 hour ago, ryanotown22 said:

    Is it ok just to shim the lower hinge only at the body?

    Sure it's okay, most of the hinges by now have some kind of slop in them anyway.

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    You need to set the door with the fender on. Both ends need to line up. Get the fender end of the door right first. Use shims if necessary. One, or both or none is fine. If the rear doesn't line up, twist it like I illustrated in my "Lily" thread

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    Thanks for this thread. I just followed that advice and my door does now line up pretty well now.
    I also have a tear at the front top of the door to fix again which I thought I'd finished but it's worth it!
    DSC_0259.jpg

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    10 hours ago, jonbill said:

    Thanks for this thread. I just followed that advice and my door does now line up pretty well now.
    I also have a tear at the front top of the door to fix again which I thought I'd finished but it's worth it!
    DSC_0259.jpg

    They all seem to crack there, probably all the door slamming.

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    2 hours ago, grannyknot said:

    They all seem to crack there, probably all the door slamming

    I always figured this came from using the window frame ('sash') as the pull (or push) point for closing the door.  Maybe, though, it's just because of the impact loads when window frame meets weatherstrip at high speed.

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    It's an interesting situation. The current project has the same cracks.

    The window frame is bolted to the inside shell of the door. So I am not sure it applies pressure to the outer skin in order to crack them apart.

    Anyone else have any theories?

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    Can you post a picture panned out?  Is it a 240Z?  

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    Can you post a picture panned out?  Is it a 240Z?  
    Here's a slightly wider angle. It's a 260.
    DSCPDC_0000_BURST20190428104202616.jpg

    It looks like its a weak spot because the door skin joins differently here - elsewhere it's a fold over seam, but here it's not folded over. Maybe it's a brazed joint?
    I thought mine cracked originally with a bit of corrosion and with the way the hinges were shimmed the door was hitting the seal on the rocker under this point and so shutting the door was stressing it.
    I hope I've sorted it now, the crack and having to slam the door really detracted from driving it.

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    Here's my crusty 76 280Z.  It's folded all the way, you can see where the roll over starts.  That's the same spot you showed but from the inside.  Is yours an early 260?  I've seen rumors that Nissan changed the sheet metal on the "big bumper" cars and that's another reason that they're heavier.

    image.png

    image.png

     

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    Thanks, it's a late 74 car. Earlyish for UK, you might call it late
    TBH I think your door looks similar to mine - folded apart from that last inch or two.
    But maybe how it's attached is a red herring. Maybe it's just where twisting forces on the door show.

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    @Patcon:  I wasn't able to find the thread by searching.  Could you help with a link or search string, etc?  Thanks!

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    1 hour ago, Jughead said:

    @Patcon:  I wasn't able to find the thread by searching.  Could you help with a link or search string, etc?  Thanks!

    Lily thread?

     

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