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ConVerTT

240z - fabbing new front rails

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12 hours ago, grannyknot said:

I agree it certainly is the fastest but it also comes with the danger of the stripping chemicals hiding in the seams and crevises  then seeping out after the new paint is on causing breaks in the paint, then the rust starts all over again (ask me how I know).  A small fine wire brush and an air gun along the seams helps a lot removing the last of the stripper.

Looking good,  I really like your plastic sheet trough under the work area, I'm going to try that next time.

Agree 1000 percent!  There is a little bit trapped along the shock tower seam.  Going to have to work that out.

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Suggest you lay a paper towel soaked with Ospho (or some other watery phosphor-type rust neutralizer) along the seam overnight, then dry things out with a heat gun. The wire brush treatment will only remove the rust from the surfaces you can see.  The rust neutralizer will creep into the seam, where it can do its thing on the broader surfaces that you'll never reach with the wire brush (or primer, or paint).

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41 minutes ago, Namerow said:

Suggest you lay a paper towel soaked with Ospho (or some other watery phosphor-type rust neutralizer) along the seam overnight, then dry things out with a heat gun. The wire brush treatment will only remove the rust from the surfaces you can see.  The rust neutralizer will creep into the seam, where it can do its thing on the broader surfaces that you'll never reach with the wire brush (or primer, or paint).

Very good idea!  Will try that!

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Well ... I forgot how slowly Por15 dries ... no welding today 🙁

E0DB6F4D-014D-4D8A-AC81-D2B058210E31.jpeg

 

15F20D60-46E6-4845-8793-52FACAFA874B.jpeg

Edited by ConVerTT
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16 hours ago, ConVerTT said:

I forgot how slowly Por15 dries

POR-15 is a moisture cure polyurethane coating. It doesn't "dry" in the common sense, It "cures" with combination from humidity moisture in the air.

If it's cold and very low humidity (like it may be in Canada at this time), it would certainly slow the cure. It'll be ready by spring. LOL

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2 hours ago, 240260280 said:

@Captain Obviousyou are extra funny today 🙂

I think it's been long enough, Mark if it hasn't send me a fart in jar, but Mark thought you were the actor on those hotel.com commercials. That's funny to me because I'd guess the same. :love:

https://nutmegcreative.com/blog/meet-captain-obvious-brandon-moynihan/

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6 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

POR-15 is a moisture cure polyurethane coating. It doesn't "dry" in the common sense, It "cures" with combination from humidity moisture in the air.

If it's cold and very low humidity (like it may be in Canada at this time), it would certainly slow the cure. It'll be ready by spring. LOL

Good point Captain.  It is minus 30 outside this week.  Of course it is temperature and humidity controlled inside - balmy 67 degrees in the shop 😳😳🤔🤔

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5 hours ago, siteunseen said:

I think it's been long enough, Mark if it hasn't send me a fart in jar, but Mark thought you were the actor on those hotel.com commercials. That's funny to me because I'd guess the same. :love:

ROFL  I've been asked what I look like. My answer is Captain Obvious.

 I bet he makes more than me...

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21 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

ROFL  I've been asked what I look like. My answer is Captain Obvious.

 I bet he makes more than me...

Safe bet!!!

but that was obvious... LOL

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Woohoo!  Driver side welded in.  Straight and true....9544DF76-6C26-4C8E-A5D5-E39051190D6C.jpeg

 

2E65F4E5-41FC-4A56-9BBD-D0169DC32EE2.jpeg

 

 

So it is spot welded in for now.  I will finish the seam welding and cleanup on the rotisserie once it is off the jig.  Welding out of position SUCKS!!!

Time to start in on the bad side ....

Nice firewall LOL

97355EA1-D4F6-45B2-AAD6-E4EBDF247369.jpeg

Rail cut out easily enough though ....

 

514EDE06-EA0B-4B8C-A61B-5193B1B8DEA6.jpeg

Check out all the rust that came out of this rail ....

24000D87-24AB-44B0-8F2F-1F725E9F1754.jpeg

 

9B1763E0-F046-4EE5-9DA2-0C799841A10F.jpeg 

+1 for the jig.  Glad I didn’t try to put that directly on to the rotisserie ....

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9 hours ago, ConVerTT said:

Woohoo!  Driver side welded in.  Straight and true....9544DF76-6C26-4C8E-A5D5-E39051190D6C.jpeg

 

2E65F4E5-41FC-4A56-9BBD-D0169DC32EE2.jpeg

 

 

So it is spot welded in for now.  I will finish the seam welding and cleanup on the rotisserie once it is off the jig.  Welding out of position SUCKS!!!

Time to start in on the bad side ....

Nice firewall LOL

97355EA1-D4F6-45B2-AAD6-E4EBDF247369.jpeg

Rail cut out easily enough though ....

 

514EDE06-EA0B-4B8C-A61B-5193B1B8DEA6.jpeg

Check out all the rust that came out of this rail ....

24000D87-24AB-44B0-8F2F-1F725E9F1754.jpeg

 

9B1763E0-F046-4EE5-9DA2-0C799841A10F.jpeg 

+1 for the jig.  Glad I didn’t try to put that directly on to the rotisserie ....

The really scary part is that use to be metal and the frame is directly weaker for that lack of metal. Plenty of Z's out there with similar unseen weakness.

There are a couple of areas in those pictures that are especially hard to repair. The compound curves in the foot well and the compound curve area under the battery tray. Will be interesting to see how you approach those. You obviously have good metal skills.

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You might consider buying the ready-made battery-area repair panel that Z-Car Depot offers...

https://zcardepot.com/collections/sheet-metal/products/battery-tray-area-sheet-metal-patch-240z-260z-280z

On sale right now at US$100, it's attractively priced...  although you'll probably be out of pocket by Cdn $300 by the time it arrives in Ft. Saskatchewan.

If nothing else, though, the photos on their website might give you some thoughts on how to go about making your own.

And, before I forget:

I've read in the past that the contours of the inner fender sheet metal in the battery tray area can be nicely matched by carving a particular section out of a front fender (if you happen to have a spare lying around that you don't need).  Maybe someone else can comment with more detail.

Edited by Namerow
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40 minutes ago, Namerow said:

You might consider buying the ready-made battery-area repair panel that Z-Car Depot offers...

https://zcardepot.com/collections/sheet-metal/products/battery-tray-area-sheet-metal-patch-240z-260z-280z

On sale right now at US$100, it's attractively priced...  although you'll probably be out of pocket by Cdn $300 by the time it arrives in Ft. Saskatchewan.

 

Ooooooooo! It's coming to my location?! LOL

@ConVerTT is located 3 hours south of me. Where the sunshine is....

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5 hours ago, Patcon said:

The really scary part is that use to be metal and the frame is directly weaker for that lack of metal. Plenty of Z's out there with similar unseen weakness.

There are a couple of areas in those pictures that are especially hard to repair. The compound curves in the foot well and the compound curve area under the battery tray. Will be interesting to see how you approach those. You obviously have good metal skills.

Thanks Patcon.  Yeah I knew the rail was bad, but holy crap Batman - I was surprised HOW bad 😕

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3 hours ago, grannyknot said:

Looking forward to seeing how you tackle that little mess,   D/S looks fantastic!

Thanks grannyknot.  It will certainly be the hardest piece yet!

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2 hours ago, Namerow said:

You might consider buying the ready-made battery-area repair panel that Z-Car Depot offers...

https://zcardepot.com/collections/sheet-metal/products/battery-tray-area-sheet-metal-patch-240z-260z-280z

On sale right now at US$100, it's attractively priced...  although you'll probably be out of pocket by Cdn $300 by the time it arrives in Ft. Saskatchewan.

If nothing else, though, the photos on their website might give you some thoughts on how to go about making your own.

And, before I forget:

I've read in the past that the contours of the inner fender sheet metal in the battery tray area can be nicely matched by carving a particular section out of a front fender (if you happen to have a spare lying around that you don't need).  Maybe someone else can comment with more detail.

Buying the pre-made is definitely plan B.  I am going to give it a shot after I figure out the firewall.  What’s the worst that can happen 😀?

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2 hours ago, wheee! said:

Ooooooooo! It's coming to my location?! LOL

@ConVerTT is located 3 hours south of me. Where the sunshine is....

Sunny and COLD 😕

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Yeah, no kidding. There's no way the hoses will fit. A rookie mistake.

Give the guy a finger brake and a MIG and suddenly he thinks he can make stuff. He'll learn.   LOL

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33 minutes ago, Captain Obvious said:

 

Give the guy a finger brake and a MIG and suddenly he thinks he can make stuff. He'll learn.   LOL

I have a garage full of misfires😉.  I guess I should post those too!

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