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TomoHawk

Removing Clock Arms

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I have a set of new gauge faces for my  1978 280Z, and I started with the clock, since it seems to be the simplest gauge.

But, the arms don't want to come off easily, like the pointer for the speed meter will.

Is there a trick to getting the clock arms off?  IIRC, the speed meter and rev counter pointer will come off easily, and the other gauges (volts/fuel,  and oil/water) have enough room under the pointers to slip the labels under.

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Those little sucker seem to be tight on there, not like they are on a cheap battery-powered wall clock:

Clock Arms.JPG

Edited by TomoHawk

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That's what I did.  It seemed to be 'rusted on" a bit, so I turned the arms slightly to break them free, and they came off.  I just wish those little screws holding the rubberized bracket to the case would come off, so I could pull the clockworks out to paint the inside.

I'll paint it anyway- very slowly!

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A good trick is to use a spoon or fork (whatever fits better) as a lever. Usually it pops right off (at least it was like this with my clock). 🙂

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13 hours ago, TomoHawk said:

...  I just wish those little screws holding the rubberized bracket to the case would come off, so I could pull the clockworks out to paint the inside.

I'll paint it anyway- very slowly!

That's too bad...  I've taken apart several clocks and I've always been able to get the mechanism loose and away from  the case.

I've painted all my gauge cases white inside and it's amazing what it does for gauge illumination!  I've never need higher wattage bulbs in my 260Z...

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WE have been changing the filament bulbs to LEDs, and it  increases the illumination that much more, plus changing the rheostat to an electronic dimmer control.

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I don't think the needle gauge from Amazon will work due to it's size. It might work, but needs to be modified. 

You can make a similar tool from a cheap pair of needle nose pliers. I did this yeas ago and it works very well. If you damage the hands I do have many in stock.

 As far as removing the screws on the back of the clock housing it takes the right size phillips and a lot of pressure to remove. If that doesn't work spray rust remover on the screws and let it set for a day or so before trying to remove

ZC

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On 10/4/2018 at 1:21 PM, cgsheen1 said:

I've painted all my gauge cases white inside and it's amazing what it does for gauge illumination!  I've never needed higher wattage bulbs in my 260Z...

You should consider changing the rheostat to the electronic dimmer.   You'll get better control and brighter lighting as a benefit.

I've painted my gauges as well (very carefully, with a small, flat brush and gloss-white paint) but IMO, putting in LED bubs had a greater increase in lighting the face.  Don't forget to paint the back of the outer casing of the plastic front cover.

Anyway, to get the arms off, I twisted them slightly to free them, and they pulled off like those of a cheap quartz movement wall-clock.  Then I pressed them back on  as well.  I considered painting the arms with a Day-Glo paint so they shine brighter, but I decided the illumination was enough, and I don't look at the clock at night anyway (while driving.)

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I installed LED gauge bulbs in a customer car years ago and absolutely hate the harshness of that light.  But, I'm an old dude and grew up with soft green gauge lighting.  My rheostat windings are clean and it works like a champ - so does my gauge lighting...

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