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jalexquijano

Tempted on removing, cleaning and reinstalling hitachi original distributor on my 240z

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4 hours ago, Zed Head said:

I might be wrong about his problem though.  In that picture I expected to see the locking screw.  Maybe the 240's have it on the other side, and adjustment marks on the side I see.

Should be where the red arrow points.

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I dont know what you are talking about regarding the bolts that fasten the distributor. Already found the gaskets. Pleasr advice which bolts shall i remove to inspect the distributor and in which position shall it be installed so the car engine cranks again.

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4 hours ago, Zed Head said:

However you look at it, he does have a new different problem that he should fix.  If his distributor is not locked own, his timing is going to walk eventually.

Beside that, this a proper, separate, thread.  Nobody has to get involved if they don't want to.  Just saying, it's his own hole, let him dig.

I was not trying to be insulting but Jalex's mechanic support is pretty non existent it seems. So I would hate to see him break it when he seems to finally have it running well.

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18 minutes ago, jalexquijano said:

I dont know what you are talking about regarding the bolts that fasten the distributor. Already found the gaskets. Pleasr advice which bolts shall i remove to inspect the distributor and in which position shall it be installed so the car engine cranks again.

 

 

 

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In this picture you can see all 3 of the 4 bolts that can be removed to remove the distributor. There are the two 10mm in the bottom aluminum piece. One you can see, one on the reverse side you can't see.

There is the single bolt I believe 8mm that threads upward through the plate with the degree markings on it. The last bolt is on the rear side of the distributor. 10 mm and threads down, sometimes it will have a nut on the bottom if it's been stripped. The bottom aluminum part can be removed and reinstalled with out affecting the timing. The other two bolts hold the distributor from moving and changing the timing.

What do the seals look like?

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18 minutes ago, Patcon said:

In this picture you can see all 3 of the 4 bolts that can be removed to remove the distributor. There are the two 10mm in the bottom aluminum piece. One you can see, one on the reverse side you can't see.

There is the single bolt I believe 8mm that threads upward through the plate with the degree markings on it. The last bolt is on the rear side of the distributor. 10 mm and threads down, sometimes it will have a nut on the bottom if it's been stripped. The bottom aluminum part can be removed and reinstalled with out affecting the timing. The other two bolts hold the distributor from moving and changing the timing.

What do the seals look like?

Thanks Patcon. These are the seals i want to replace. What would be your approach?

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Note where the lines are in the spot with the red arrow.  That's what they are for. 

Remove the circled bolt.  Pull the distributor out.  The o-ring will be right there.

Then remove the two bolts that hold the pedestal.  The gasket will be there.

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Zed head is correct.

The O ring is between the distributor and the metal plate with the markings. Make sure you put it back with the pointer in the same place on the markings. That way your timing will be the same.

The pedestal is the aluminum part at the bottom of the distributor that is held in with the two 10mm bolts. The paper gasket goes under there

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21 hours ago, Zed Head said:

Note where the lines are in the spot with the red arrow.  That's what they are for. 

Remove the circled bolt.  Pull the distributor out.  The o-ring will be right there.

Then remove the two bolts that hold the pedestal.  The gasket will be there.

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This means the distributor can be pulled out just by removing the 8mm bolt you have circled and the engine will only crank if i install the distributor i  the exact position as it is marked?

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It might crank but it will not run the same unless you have the marks matched, where the red arrow is.  That is your timing adjustment.   That's why there's an R and an A on that plate.  Retarded and Advanced.

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On ‎9‎/‎16‎/‎2018 at 7:31 PM, Zed Head said:

Note where the lines are in the spot with the red arrow.  That's what they are for. 

Remove the circled bolt.  Pull the distributor out.  The o-ring will be right there.

Then remove the two bolts that hold the pedestal.  The gasket will be there.

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I found this video on YouTube but it refers to removing a distributor on a 280z. I guess it should be the same procedure. Now i will need to buy a rubber hammer and some high temperature silicone so the gasket binds perfectly to the metal.

 

 

 

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It's not a bad video, it does show how the parts fit.  The locking plate on your 240Z will be slightly different but the basics are the same.

You don't need to slather on all of that silicone sealant.  Just use the gasket. 

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Im gonna take the risk and pull that distributor out just to verify the state of the gasket seals and o ring. I hope the car engine cranks when i insert it back.

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14 hours ago, jalexquijano said:

Im gonna take the risk and pull that distributor out just to verify the state of the gasket seals and o ring. I hope the car engine cranks when i insert it back.

Let us know the results when it's all back together.

Dennis

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On ‎9‎/‎18‎/‎2018 at 10:57 AM, Zed Head said:

It's not a bad video, it does show how the parts fit.  The locking plate on your 240Z will be slightly different but the basics are the same.

You don't need to slather on all of that silicone sealant.  Just use the gasket. 

Do you think its worth following all the steps he did in the video such as cleaning and polishing the base with a dremmel?

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On 9/18/2018 at 10:57 AM, Zed Head said:

It's not a bad video, it does show how the parts fit.  The locking plate on your 240Z will be slightly different but the basics are the same.

You don't need to slather on all of that silicone sealant.  Just use the gasket. 

Thanks to all you guys i made my task possible. I removed the old gasket, cleaned the surface with a knife and wd40 and sanded the surfaces with sand paper. After all this was done i installed the  new gasket and reinstall the distributor.

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 Since you didn't tell us "the rest of the story", I'm going to assume that when you reassembled it, the engine fired up and drove fine. Congratulations, learning is fun. Especially when it goes well.

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