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1970 HLS30-06521 Re-Restoration


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What do you guys use to protect the tops of the fenders? Mine are soft as a beer can so I have some painters cotton drop cloths I use but I need some magnetic fender covers I guess. Or quit putting my elbows there.

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29 minutes ago, siteunseen said:

What do you guys use to protect the tops of the fenders? Mine are soft as a beer can so I have some painters cotton drop cloths I use but I need some magnetic fender covers I guess. Or quit putting my elbows there.

I would like to know as well. It would be good reference for when I re-assemble. The other thing to remember is, don't lean on the fenders. 

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I've seen a small suction type dent puller on FB marketplace I'm thinking about buying. I have a dent in my refrigerator door too I think it would work on. I'll let you know if I buy it.

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1 hour ago, siteunseen said:

I've seen a small suction type dent puller on FB marketplace I'm thinking about buying. I have a dent in my refrigerator door too I think it would work on. I'll let you know if I buy it.

Thanks Site, you never know when it might come in handy.

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Progress for today, started cleaning up the engine and removed the alternator. I was actually surprised at how much blue paint there still is, with the grease and grime removed.

20210709_153603_HDR.jpg

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11 hours ago, CanTechZ said:

I would like to know as well. It would be good reference for when I re-assemble. The other thing to remember is, don't lean on the fenders. 

Leaning on the fender is a no go.. i was thinking of making a C-shape steel construction that go's over the fender (standing on the ground behind the front wheel.)  with some lining (inside the C shape)  to not scratch the fenders..   

when working on a z or zx i do not use a fender cloth, when it's covered you tend to lean on it.. and throw lots of tools on them, i use a toolcart for that.

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Going back to the engine removal for a moment, I noticed two things you did that I'd like the hear more about:

  • At the front hoist point, you bypassed the lift bracket installed on the hoist chain and used, instead, a clevis and a bolt.  Was the clevis a part of the hoist kit, or did you source it separately?
  • At the rear hoist point, you appear to have removed the header stud and used a bolt instead. Please explain.
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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Namerow said:

Going back to the engine removal for a moment, I noticed two things you did that I'd like the hear more about:

  • At the front hoist point, you bypassed the lift bracket installed on the hoist chain and used, instead, a clevis and a bolt.  Was the clevis a part of the hoist kit, or did you source it separately?
  • At the rear hoist point, you appear to have removed the header stud and used a bolt instead. Please explain.

The clevis was purchased separately, as I used a factory lifting bracket the clevis worked better than the L bracket on the leveler. Funny thing, I checked first I checked Canadian Tire and they only had Chinese non rated clevis's, the one I selected is from a local industrial supply store, it is a 3/8" VGD "gold pin" anchor shackle with a 1 ton WLL and it was cheaper than the CDN Tire import.

20210707_135939.jpg

At the rear I actually used the rear intake mounting hole that uses an M8 capscrew. I used a shorter screw plus, a 14mm OD x 8.5mm ID sleeve in the hole of the lifting bracket on the leveler.

20210707_135842.jpg

 

 

Edited by CanTechZ
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20210707_135939.jpg

 It does my heart good to see your original " grapefruit" alternator.

My old eyes can't tell from the photo-----what color is the band around your alternator? Is it a deep burgandy-ish red?

 

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24 minutes ago, Zup said:

It does my heart good to see your original " grapefruit" alternator.

My old eyes can't tell from the photo-----what color is the band around your alternator? Is it a deep burgandy-ish red?

 

It is kind of burgandy-ish. I've always called it reddish brown.

20210710_064932.jpg

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Excellent! You've confirmed what I had hoped.

I recently had the "grapefruit" alternator for my 7/70 240z rebuilt by a fellow that restores roadsters. We sourced the diode packs and new bearings, etc.  and then we went back and forth about the color of the band. I had him do it in the "reddish brown" you describe.

 

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7 minutes ago, Zup said:

Excellent! You've confirmed what I had hoped.

I recently had the "grapefruit" alternator for my 7/70 240z rebuilt by a fellow that restores roadsters. We sourced the diode packs and new bearings, etc.  and then we went back and forth about the color of the band. I had him do it in the "reddish brown" you describe.

 

Nice, good to hear. I plan to have mine rebuilt as well. Although it still works great and as far as I know it hasn't been worked on. Not bad service for 50 years. 

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20 hours ago, Zup said:

My old eyes can't tell from the photo-----what color is the band around your alternator? Is it a deep burgandy-ish red?

Mine is RUSTY-brown, is that oké to? :Bazinga:   (Btw.. my alternator is now also 50 years old and only had a paintjob about 22 years ago..)

Hé Jim, why is it called a grapefruit-alternator?  

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16 minutes ago, dutchzcarguy said:

Hé Jim, why is it called a grapefruit-alternator?  

The openings outside the diode packs at the rear of the alternator look similar to a grapefruit cut in half exposing the sections of the fruit.

image.png

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

This past Sunday I removed the front and rear suspension, officially my car is no longer a roller. All went without issue thanks to the detailed instructions in Wick Humbles book and the video posted by @240ZBUILTBYME on his build thread. 

https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/64416-240zbuiltbyme-1971-240z-hs-001063-project-sheena/?do=findComment&comment=607208&_rid=7818

Also it has very useful to have lots of spare jack stands and a small extra floor jack.

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Here are a few pics of the setup and process for removing the front crossmember and suspension as a unit. The transmission adapter on my floor jack added extra stability in the absence of a helper.

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Rear setup and process,

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Resetting for the final drop without the transmission adapter,

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Only a few more things to do, before it's off to my body guy's shop.

 

Edited by CanTechZ
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45 minutes ago, CanTechZ said:

This past Sunday I removed the front and rear suspension, officially my car is no longer a roller. All went without issue thanks to the detailed instructions in Wick Humbles book and the video posted by @240ZBUILTBYME on his build thread

I’m glad it helped someone! Great job 👏🏽 I was much less careful with my assembly as everything is getting completely overhauled. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Continued with creating templates for the tar mat insulators. I have finished and uploaded templates for the rear deck area to our downloads in the cad files section,

https://www.classiczcars.com/files/file/142-1970-240z-floor-tar-mat-templates/

Here is a picture of testing the templates to confirm fit. All that is left to do is the transmission tunnel area, hopefully I will get that done soon, before the shell goes to the body shop.

20210729_103135.jpg

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Thanks for taking the time to photo-document.  These pix will be a great reference for others.  They also give us interesting insights into the design and assembly strategies that Nissan was using fifty years ago when the Z was launched.

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11 hours ago, Namerow said:

Thanks for taking the time to photo-document.  These pix will be a great reference for others.  They also give us interesting insights into the design and assembly strategies that Nissan was using fifty years ago when the Z was launched.

Thanks, I also find it interesting to reflect on the design and assembly techniques that were used by Nissan, as the technicians assembling our cars would surely have been under pressure to get things done quickly. This one of the reasons I have been going slowly with the disassembly process. Taking the time to smell the roses, so to speak.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Spend much of the weekend continuing with my tar mat template project. Almost finished with the preliminary test fitting of the transmission tunnel templates. Hopefully just have to do one more round of adjustments to my cad file and then plot full size in one piece to do a final test fit. Actually two pieces, there is a front section and rear section that overlap. This has definitely proven to be the most time consuming part of the job.

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Luckily my drafting table and computer are in my office that is directly connected to the garage. As you can see I'm using all available space for parts. LOL

20210815_125506.jpg

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Today I started removing decals in the engine bay. The emissions decal under the hood and the paint code decal from the upper rad support. So far I have removed the paint code decal successfully in one piece. Has anyone reused these decals, I was surprised that this first one came off so good. Before I started I took a couple of pics to document the size and original position.

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To remove the paint code decal I used a razor blade and a heat gun (on low). First lightly heating the whole decal and then carefully using the razor blade to lift one corner. Then applied more heat and used the blade to continue lifting until I could hold the corner by hand to apply light tension and use the blade to aid in lifting. I stopped every few minutes to re heat and in about a half hour it was off.

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 Hopefully the emissions decal will come off this nice as well. Even if I don't end up using them, they will be good for reference.

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While reviewing the pictures I took of my decals on my computer using Google Photos, I noticed a button on the screen reading "Copy text from image". It's only there if the picture has text. So I clicked the button and found that it uses Google Lens to select and copy the image text to your clipboard. I was very surprised at how well it worked on an image that had glare on it. I will have to learn what else Google Lens can do.

Google Lens -05.JPG

Google Lens -06.JPG

 

This would be very useful to extract the text if you were creating your own decals.

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