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joe newsom

Oil pressure gauge

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Disconnect the wire from the sender, and ground it to the block. Turn on the ignition (no need to start it) and see if the gauge goes to full pressure. If it does, the gauge is good. 

 

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The gauge could be tested with the key in the ON position and engine not running. Use a potentiometer in place of the sender. If there is voltage going through the gauge, moving the potentiometer will cause the needle to move.

Was the engine rebuilt? Was the sender removed/replaced? Are you sure all of the connections are correct? Do you have voltage to the gauge? How about voltage to ground at the oil pressure sender? Are the threads clean at the block and sender? 

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The gauge could be tested with the key in the ON position and engine not running. Use a potentiometer in place of the sender. If there is voltage going through the gauge, moving the potentiometer will cause the needle to move.

Was the engine rebuilt? Was the sender removed/replaced? Are you sure all of the connections are correct? Do you have voltage to the gauge? How about voltage to ground at the oil pressure sender? Are the threads clean at the block and sender? 

The engine was rebuilt. No I did not replace the sender ( in fact I zinc plated it) which left me wondering if that process damaged it. I am pretty sure all connections are correct. I do not know if there about voltage. I need todo some testing and break out the good ole wiring chart.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

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you have the idiot light sensor, not the gauge sensor.

no pressure, contacts closed light comes on, with pressure contacts open, light goes off.

Edited by Dave WM

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