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Lowering + Negative Camber Suggestions


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Need to lower another 1-2 inches. Also want 2-3 degrees neg camber. What are my options without modifying the shock mounts? BC coilovers? Currently on Iluminas with Bilstein springs. Thanks
 
IMG_0194.thumb.JPG.a914f3772fc7caff4b00357e9ec5f628.JPG
 
 
12/70 2.6 block E88 heads Mallory DCOE40 3/2 Twice pipes Tokico 1, 3/4 in sways, ext oil cooler

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Need to lower another 1-2 inches. Also want 2-3 degrees neg camber. What are my options without modifying the shock mounts? BC coilovers? Currently on Iluminas with Bilstein springs. Thanks
 
IMG_0194.thumb.JPG.a914f3772fc7caff4b00357e9ec5f628.JPG
 
 
12/70 2.6 block E88 heads Mallory DCOE40 3/2 Twice pipes Tokico 1, 3/4 in sways, ext oil cooler


BC Coilover can give a couple degrees. Hard to adjust unless you open up your top mounts and put plates on. I bought a donor set of fronts and rear assemblies and welded the BC’s on keeping my originals in storage for a rainy day


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22 hours ago, wil84911 said:

Currently on Iluminas with Bilstein springs

Never saw Bilstein springs for a Z car before. Didn't know they made them. 

With that wheel and tire set up it does not look like there is much room left to lower anymore.

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Never saw Bilstein springs for a Z car before. Didn't know they made them. 
With that wheel and tire set up it does not look like there is much room left to lower anymore.


Haha! Senior moment. Meant Eibach LOL. I am moving to 15 inch rims.


12/70 2.6 block E88 heads Mallory DCOE40 3/2 Twice pipes Tokico 1, 3/4 in sways, ext oil cooler
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You would then use TTT's NRCA's. Specs as follows from their site.

These Negative Camber RCA's will provide 2.8 degrees of camber on a car dropped 2". On a car dropped 3" they will provide 3.1 degrees of negative camber (these figures are IN ADDITION to the camber your car already has, so if you already have 1.2 degrees of camber at 2" drop, then you would have 4 degrees overall of negative camber)

https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/240z/negative-camber-roll-center-adjusters-240z-260z-and-280z

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  • 2 weeks later...
11 hours ago, Patcon said:

Pretty pieces. Why such a large offset on the hat?

when in the strut, it alters caster and camber, its not as massive as it looks, its come from development of a 'fast road'-'rally' setup, one thats very streetable.  It helps overcome some of the softening down that some of the ROW spec cars suffered from the factory.  I've a US spec early car that suffers from the softer spec given to the USA.

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2 hours ago, Jason240z said:

when in the strut, it alters caster and camber, its not as massive as it looks, its come from development of a 'fast road'-'rally' setup, one thats very streetable.  It helps overcome some of the softening down that some of the ROW spec cars suffered from the factory.  I've a US spec early car that suffers from the softer spec given to the USA.

Interesting!

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Coil-overs and then just slot the existing strut tower mounts if you want to save money. You can always add camber plates later.

Driving around with more than 2 degrees of front negative camber may not  be to your liking. It requires your full attention and both hands on the wheel.

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Coil-overs and then just slot the existing strut tower mounts if you want to save money. You can always add camber plates later.

Driving around with more than 2 degrees of front negative camber may not  be to your liking. It requires your full attention and both hands on the wheel.

 

I’m okay with it. Prev car ran -2, -3 for years. But was planning on what you suggested (camber maybe later). Thanks

 

 

 

12/70 2.6 block E88 heads Mallory DCOE40 3/2 Twice pipes Tokico 1, 3/4 in sways, ext oil cooler

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^ Must be nice to have a portable laser cutter 
Seriously. How did you cut those out so nicely. Will you do mine? :beer:

Ha! I used a drill and a rotary tool with steel cutting head to do that. Granted I started with raw metal them primed and painted afterwards..., but still done by hand.
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When I suggested slotting the tops I had in mind that one would weld in the plates once one had enough money to do so. You would need some form of camber bushings (front and rear) to make that work but those are cheap as opposed to a full suspension upgrade.

We ran -3 degrees using this method before welding in TTT plates and adjustable control arms. Granted this was a race car and overall looks were not important.

Those done by Mark are very, very pretty. Nice work.

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