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motorman7

We're bringin' back the Flat Tops!

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Rich,

The dash looks great!

On another topic, when you get all that hardware plated. How do you prevent it from rusting? I thought what you did was de-grease it and strip it. Then you take it to get plated. It seems like it would be prone to rusting while it is waiting to go to the plater.

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Rich you are doing a fantastic job!   I sure wish I restored my Z AFTER I found this site!   The hardest thing I had was trying to get the correct bolts, nuts or washers after I stripped or broke several trying to get them out.   Also finding the correct size fuel lines using the original clamps is no easy chore.   I sure wish I knew where you get some of these!  

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7 minutes ago, Patcon said:

when you get all that hardware plated. How do you prevent it from rusting? I thought what you did was de-grease it and strip it. Then you take it to get plated. It seems like it would be prone to rusting while it is waiting to go to the plater.

         The parts would not develop much rust from the time that the parts are stripped until the plater receives the parts.  The acid dip that the plater does would be enough to to remove any mild surface rust that  developed in the time frame between the stripping and the plater processing the parts. Usually less than one week.  (This is the way I used to process parts with the old plating shop)

That being said, I am now using a new shop that does a better job and I send them parts that are somewhat dirty, greasy and rusty. ( I do a quick wire wheel strip on parts that are especially bad, otherwise I just toss them in the shipping box).  All paint must be removed, but light grease/oil and rust is acceptable to them.  The new shop processes the crappy parts and their work is impressive.  Their work is consistent and looks to be the correct color, shine and rainbowing.  The cost is $140 for as much as you can squeeze into a Large USPS shipping box.  It really is a great deal.  It is worth it just for the time it saves me at the wire wheel.  Plus, my fingers and limbs are still in tact.

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9 minutes ago, 240Z73 said:

 The hardest thing I had was trying to get the correct bolts, nuts or washers after I stripped or broke several trying to get them out.   Also finding the correct size fuel lines using the original clamps is no easy chore.   I sure wish I knew where you get some of these!  

I have had to do my share of drilling and tapping on broken and stripped screw...it happens.  I like 'Newco Products' for the fuel lines and clamps are typically from e-bay or ones that I have collected over the years.

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27 minutes ago, motorman7 said:

         The parts would not develop much rust from the time that the parts are stripped until the plater receives the parts.  The acid dip that the plater does would be enough to to remove any mild surface rust that  developed in the time frame between the stripping and the plater processing the parts. Usually less than one week.  (This is the way I used to process parts with the old plating shop)

That being said, I am now using a new shop that does a better job and I send them parts that are somewhat dirty, greasy and rusty. ( I do a quick wire wheel strip on parts that are especially bad, otherwise I just toss them in the shipping box).  All paint must be removed, but light grease/oil and rust is acceptable to them.  The new shop processes the crappy parts and their work is impressive.  Their work is consistent and looks to be the correct color, shine and rainbowing.  The cost is $140 for as much as you can squeeze into a Large USPS shipping box.  It really is a great deal.  It is worth it just for the time it saves me at the wire wheel.  Plus, my fingers and limbs are still in tact.

Thanks,

I struggle to plate larger parts. I do fine on bolts and such, but it is difficult to get good plating on larger or odd shaped parts. There is a plater that is not too far away I may talk to

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9 minutes ago, Patcon said:

 

I struggle to plate larger parts. I do fine on bolts and such, but it is difficult to get good plating on larger or odd shaped parts. There is a plater that is not too far away I may talk to

Yes, I have the same problem as well.  I only do my own plating when I have a small quantity of small parts.

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29 minutes ago, motorman7 said:

Yes, I have the same problem as well.  I only do my own plating when I have a small quantity of small parts.

That may be where I end up eventually.

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I have a more important question, how do you keep all your bolts / fasteners organised before and after plating? I've put them into separate bags but not all platers keep them in the order you sent them to them in. I was going to photograph them with a sheet of paper giving their specification in terms of thread size/pitch and where they go.

Example of what I do with SUs here.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/ewb1ZWYoF5QJH7ey2

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9 hours ago, motorman7 said:

The cost is $140 for as much as you can squeeze into a Large USPS shipping box.

can you share who that is? 

thanks!

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7 hours ago, narth327 said:

can you share who that is? 

Sav-On plating in Phoenix.  I put all the parts in large zip-loc freezer bags and use two large USPS boxes.   Yellow zinc and silver zinc need to be bagged separately and are processed separately (and charged separately).  Minimum lot charge is $140 so load up the bags.

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Hello @motorman7, Thank you for your honest feedback. We tried to leave an extra vinyl piece for the glove box but with the wide range of skill set from DIY clients to Professional restorers. We were concern about the DIY users not using the sharpest blade to cut the vinyl and could possibly ruin the brand new dash by cutting more than they needed to so we had to come to a conclusion not to leave any vinyl behind.

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13 hours ago, Gav240z said:

I have a more important question, how do you keep all your bolts / fasteners organised before and after plating? I've put them into separate bags but not all platers keep them in the order you sent them to them in. I was going to photograph them with a sheet of paper giving their specification in terms of thread size/pitch and where they go.

Example of what I do with SUs here.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/ewb1ZWYoF5QJH7ey2

Wow, that is very organized.  I do not record things to that extent.

Typically, when I take off a part, I will photograph the item with the fasteners.  That way I know what fasteners hold which parts.  As a last resort, I always have my '70 as a reference.

Typically, since the plater will mix all the parts together, the only thing I take care to do (besides the pics) is to put the yellow zinc in one box and the silver zinc in another box.  

I do take quite a few pics of the disassembled parts with fasteners.  I probably only post about one-tenth of all the pics I actually take.

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I assembled the front shock struts today.  Interesting thing about the '73 Z is that they have a rubber bellows assembly that goes over the strut, inside of the spring.  I have not seen these before.  The original bellows were toast so I ordered some new ones from Rock Auto.  They are a bit hard to see since they are inside the spring, but they look real cool.  Also got new lower ball joints and sprayed those with a clear coat along with the threaded studs at the top of the strut assembly.

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Put the dash harness and instruments (minus the clock) into the 'Vintage Dashes' dash.  The fit was very good.  Now I need to get the clock fixed in addition to adding new holes for the flasher switch, cig lighter and dimmer.  LED dash bulbs have been ordered and should be here in a day or two.  

Had a friend join me during the assembly.  You don't see too many  Praying Mantis's out here in CA. 

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Got the trip reset dial in, dash light dimmer, flashers,and cigarette lighter in.   All were easy to install except for the cig lighter.  There was some foam in the area that needed to be removed, otherwise it was all pretty straight forward.  I also installed the super bright LED bulbs.  We will see how those work.  I figure with the dimmer switch we can always turn those down if they are a bit bright.  Still haven't sent the clock out yet.  We will go with the quartz mechanism on that as it is very accurate and reliable.

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19 minutes ago, motorman7 said:

Got the trip reset dial in, dash light dimmer, flashers,and cigarette lighter in.   All were easy to install except for the cig lighter.  There was some foam in the area that needed to be removed, otherwise it was all pretty straight forward.  I also installed the super bright LED bulbs.  We will see how those work.  I figure with the dimmer switch we can always turn those down if they are a bit bright.  Still haven't sent the clock out yet.  We will go with the quartz mechanism on that as it is very accurate and reliable.

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Can you share how you are handling the VIN tag? Thanks!

Edited by hiyabrad

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Just guessing here, but since the VIN tag is riveted my money says it's part of the dash frame that the old dash is removed from and the new dash is attached to.

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16 minutes ago, w3wilkes said:

Just guessing here, but since the VIN tag is riveted my money says it's part of the dash frame that the old dash is removed from and the new dash is attached to.

Yes, the VIN tag is part of the frame.  The edge of the new cover tucks under it nicely.

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1 hour ago, grannyknot said:

Did Vintage Dashes also do the glove box door?

No, just the dash.  I will have to check to see if they do glove box doors.  That would be convenient.

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No, just the dash.  I will have to check to see if they do glove box doors.  That would be convenient.

When I did my dash with LEDs the light rheostat did not allow dimming. If your bulbs are adjustable I would love to know where to find them. How ever mine are not so bright at night that I really need to adjust them.
Nice looking dash!

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Now that I am back from ZCON (had a great time) , it's time to get started on the Blue car again.  I cleaned and painted the motor mounts (rubber is in great shape) and some of the brake parts.  I hit the brake parts and motor mount threads with some gloss clear so they stay that color.  Also got the left rear strut cleaned up and painted and,  attached a couple of the brackets.  Nice to get moving on this again.

I also dropped the bumpers off at the Chrome shop, Pacific Plating.  They assured me that they would be able to fix the rear bumper which was nice to hear.  Odd coincidence, they just relocated and are now just half a block from Miguel's paint shop.  That's convenient!

Here are a couple of pics of the cleaned up parts.

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Did some more pre-assembly work on the undercarriage parts.  Got the passenger side strut cleaned and painted last weekend along with the caps.  Put the springs in both the rear struts.  Also installed the motor mounts and did a little pre-assembly on the rear suspension parts.  Pics are below.

 

 

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