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motorman7

We're bringin' back the Flat Tops!

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9 hours ago, motorman7 said:

Started clean-up work on the differential and half-shafts.  And...Merry Christmas Everyone!!!

Is that driveshaft painted (top 1) or stripped of all paint and in it's raw metal form?

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On ‎12‎/‎23‎/‎2018 at 10:01 PM, motorman7 said:

Just checked. The needle is shiny like that the entire length down, all the way around, so it's probably not contact....I think. My guess is that the upper part is oxidized while the lower part is shiny since it is sitting in gas.

Cool. Must just be a trick of the light.

I'm also pleased at how close my camera can focus. And in the cases where it can't focus because it's too close, I've found that I can hold an eye loupe up to the lens and decrease the focal length more. For example, here's a shot of some needles I have here:
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14 hours ago, Gav240z said:

Is that driveshaft painted (top 1) or stripped of all paint and in it's raw metal form?

This one is actually painted with duplicolor 'stainless steel' paint.  Typically I strip off all of the paint on the half shafts and then just do a clear coat.  However, these shafts were pretty discolored (I think due to the rust and corrosion) and 'blotchy', and no amount of wire wheel stripping would clean them up.  I initially did the clear coat on this shaft just to see if the discoloration would go away, but it did not and actually looked worse.   So, I stripped the clear coat from the shafts and painted it with the closest color I could find to it's bare state.  Technically, these are supposed to be painted black, but since everything else under there will be black, it would look kind of plain.  I am also planning on stripping the back plate of the differential and leaving that bare.  That makes for a pretty nice looking rear end.....that few people will really see.  The finished product should look something like the pic below.

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Continued work on the other half shaft and differential (after a short Holiday getaway).  I tried to buff out the scratches off of the differential rear cover and ended up making that a bit to shiny.   Sprayed it with some matte clear to tone it down a bit.  Drained all the fluid out of the diff.  The diff gear assembly is pretty smooth with virtually no backlash so I won't touch anything here other than put in new fluid once everything is together.   I sent the diff nuts and bolts out for plating along with some of the carb parts and some of the other remaining items, so I will complete the assembly in a week or so.  Loosely pieced the parts together to get an idea of what the final assembly will look like.

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More photos from the paint shop.  Progress seems to be painfully slow as I have pretty much all of the suspension and undercarriage items complete along with the motor, but no structure to attach it to.  I am chomping at the bit to start assembling things here.  I still have stuff to keep me busy but would rather be putting parts on the car.  Latest batch of plated parts will be back in a week.  Will get working on the exhaust manifold, handbrake cable and finish up the dash here shortly.

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They do beautiful paint work!! It's a shame they are so far away from me. It is always nice to have someone paint a Datsun that knows Datsun's!

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6 hours ago, Patcon said:

They do beautiful paint work!! It's a shame they are so far away from me. It is always nice to have someone paint a Datsun that knows Datsun's!

Yes, it is nice to have someone with his quality of work.  The delay is due to the number of Z cars he is working on concurrently.

 

Here's a pic of the staging area:  Can you tell that I am ready for the body to show up?

I actually had an old '73 exhaust manifold laying around, so I worked on removing the old vestiges of the air galley and re-tapped the holes.  Also, the large plug for the tube that goes from this manifold to the balance tube came out pretty easily.  I will take this over to Olympic and get it ceramic coated.

New air galley's are getting hard to find (meaning expensive) and old ones never come off well.  Zstore and Zeddsaver are out of stock on these.  Had to pick up one from Jay at jdm-parts.com  It should arrive in a couple days.

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Bought a couple air galley's since these were pretty hard to find.  One for this car and one for my white Z.  

Now that these are getting way too pricey, I am going to try and salvage these two.  I have been soaking the two set-ups shown below in alternate soakings of Kroil and PB blaster.  After about a week, I will hit them with fire and ice (torch on the exhaust manifold, then ice cube on the fitting) and see if I can get them to budge.  I am not optimistic,  but will give it a try.  If that doesn't work, then I will just cut them off and drill and tap.

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Can you get a flare nut wrench over those? You may have to experiment with metric and standard to see which fits the best. That or a really good pair of the vise grips I bought but they will leave more marks than the flare nut wrench.

This

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or this

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9 minutes ago, Patcon said:

Can you get a flare nut wrench over those? You may have to experiment with metric and standard to see which fits the best. That or a really good pair of the vise grips I bought but they will leave more marks than the flare nut wrench.

I have a 14mm flare nut wrench that fits well on these.  The problem is that the metal is incredibly soft, so it's hard not to damage the nut when trying to unloosen them.  Occasionally I have resorted to the vise-grips but that rarely turns out well.   I should get a little time tonight, so may give it a try using the torch and ice along with the flare nut.  I need to add some of those funky looking vise-grips to my arsenal, thanks for the pics.

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37 minutes ago, motorman7 said:

I have a 14mm flare nut wrench that fits well on these.  The problem is that the metal is incredibly soft, so it's hard not to damage the nut when trying to unloosen them.  Occasionally I have resorted to the vise-grips but that rarely turns out well.   I should get a little time tonight, so may give it a try using the torch and ice along with the flare nut.  I need to add some of those funky looking vise-grips to my arsenal, thanks for the pics.

I agree, they are easily disfigured. I would hate to see two good candidates destroyed. You could get some Freeze Off spray. I think CRC makes it. I have had good luck with it and a torch.

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15 hours ago, motorman7 said:

it's hard not to damage the nut when trying to unloosen them.

Well there's your problem... Maybe try loosening them instead of unloosening them?  LOL

Seriously though, good luck with the endeavor. My only word of advice is of potential personal safety...

The active ingredient in that freeze spray stuff (R152) is difluoroethane, and I'm no expert on the topic, but one of the components of flame decomposition of many of the fluorocarbons is hydrogen fluoride gas. Problem with hydrogen fluoride gas is that it turns into hydrofluoric acid when it comes into contact with water. And as a fictional silicon life form once pointed out, you're a bag of mostly water.

Short story? I'm certainly no expert in the field, but I don't think it would be a good idea to work with a torch in one hand and the freeze spray can in the other and don't light the freeze spray on fire.

Speaking of such things, I did exactly that with a can of R134 (tetrafluoroethane) a coupe months ago. And 24 hours later, based on the corrosion spray pattern behind what I was working on, I think I created some hydrofluoric. I had all the ingredients there at the same time. Very very nasty stuff.

Edited by Captain Obvious
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I was able to get two of the fittings to loosen on one of the manifolds.  That is very promising.  The other four on that same manifold would not budge.  So, I think I will let them soak some more and try again on Thursday.  No rush as this would be worth the wait.  The fire and ice seems to work pretty well.  Hopefully it will allow the Kroil to penetrate a little deeper on the fittings that would not move.  The second manifold wasn't moving at all.  So, I think I will continue to soak that one as well.

I took the throttle shafts into Olympic coatings for a dry film lube coating.  This should hopefully replicate the previous green coating that was on the throttle shafts.  Forgot to take before pics on these.

Also got a couple tires in today from @jayhawk.  I will wait till later before I unwrap them.  Pretty sure they are some nice Bridgestones.

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9 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

you're a bag of mostly water.

"ugly bags of mostly water"  I think, says another STNG geek.

 

11 hours ago, Patcon said:

You could get some Freeze Off spray. I think CRC makes it. I have had good luck with it and a torch.

Funny you say that because I have never seen it work yet,  I have even sprayed my hand with it and the skin only feels cool  not -42*C                 But then I live up here so my Government has probably taken the good stuff out!

9 hours ago, motorman7 said:

I took the throttle shafts into Olympic coatings for a dry film lube coating.  This should hopefully replicate the previous green coating that was on the throttle shafts. 

So dry film lube coatings are offered in different colours?  That's good info.

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2 hours ago, grannyknot said:

"ugly bags of mostly water"  I think, says another STNG geek.

Haha!!! Exactly! That's the one!

 I was just leaving the (subjective) "ugly" portion out of it and was letting that part up to the interpreter.      LOL

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13 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

The active ingredient in that freeze spray stuff (R152) is difluoroethane, and I'm no expert on the topic, but one of the components of flame decomposition of many of the fluorocarbons is hydrogen fluoride gas. Problem with hydrogen fluoride gas is that it turns into hydrofluoric acid when it comes into contact with water. And as a fictional silicon life form once pointed out, you're a bag of mostly water.

I didn't check the chemistry (not my field of expertise) but I figure the fumes from the Kroil and PB Blaster are probably not good for you either.  Did my best to keep away from that stuff.

 

3 hours ago, grannyknot said:

So dry film lube coatings are offered in different colours?  That's good info.

I should clarify, the color of the dry film lube for this application is dark grayish.  My intent was not so much the color replication, but the surface build-up and the bearing surface.  The shaft is pretty much encapsulated, so the color will not be visible.  Also, the dry film lube finish seems to be very durable.  They use it to coat the piston skirts on racing engines.

 

And yes, I did have to google STNG 🙂

Edited by motorman7
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Yeah, the chemistry isn't anywhere near my field of expertise either. But I do know that hydrofluoric acid is really nasty stuff due to it's affinity for calcium of which you have a bunch inside your bag of water. Here's two garage rules...

Don't burn any of the fluorocarbons due to the risk of creating hydrofluoric acid.
Don't electric weld anywhere around chlorinated carb cleaners due to the risk of creating phosgene.

You, being in CA, probably can't get your hands on any chlorinated cleaners anymore.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=paH97dYR6Lg

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Got parts back from plating.  Sorted these into separate boxes to help keep things organized.  Items are categorized as, Nuts, Bolts, Washers, Brake parts, Carb and Smog parts, small screws and washers, silver zinc parts, and misc.  That will help when I start putting things back together.

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On ‎1‎/‎10‎/‎2019 at 10:45 PM, motorman7 said:

I actually had an old '73 exhaust manifold laying around

or 2 it would seem. LOL

Are those manifolds from a 73? Mine is a completely different casting---N33.

This photo is from when I installed a new air galley. It isn't as easy to install as one would think. (you know that)

One of the biggest disappointments I have had is that once the exhaust manifold with new air galley was installed on the engine, the air galley tube discolored badly soon afterward from the heat.

I don't know of any way to prevent it from happening and have wondered several times if the plating has changed on the new tubes and just doesn't hold up as well. I do know it is more of a silver-ish cast than the yellow zinc plate you typically see on plated parts.

Would re-plating a new one by sending it out to Sav-On Plating result in a more durable finish?

Thoughts???

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10 hours ago, Zup said:

 

Are those manifolds from a 73? Mine is a completely different casting---N33.

This photo is from when I installed a new air galley. It isn't as easy to install as one would think. (you know that)

One of the biggest disappointments I have had is that once the exhaust manifold with new air galley was installed on the engine, the air galley tube discolored badly soon afterward from the heat.

I don't know of any way to prevent it from happening and have wondered several times if the plating has changed on the new tubes and just doesn't hold up as well. I do know it is more of a silver-ish cast than the yellow zinc plate you typically see on plated parts.

Would re-plating a new one by sending it out to Sav-On Plating result in a more durable finish?

Thoughts???

 

Hi Jim,

     Actually, the two shown are not for this car and are for earlier models (E30 and ?,  I probably should not have included them on this thread) .  They do not have the side port near the outlet which is unique to the '73 and '74s.  The '73 manifold, I'm guessing early '73 (N36), has the side port as shown below and in earlier post.  As you know, there is a tube that routes from this port up to the balance tube. On the '73 exhaust manifold, I drilled and tapped the smog ports.  You can actually see part of that manifold in one of the above pics (3 manifolds).  Also, I re-posted the '73 manifold pics below.  The '74 manifold are much larger as seen in your picture.  Not sure when the change came about for the larger size, but both have the side port.

     Yes, funny thing about the air galley and the discoloration.  Not sure if there is any way to prevent that.  It seems to discolor more if you disable the air pump which probably gets the air galley real hot since there is nothing to cool it down.  It does appear that after the initial discoloration that the color stabilizes which is a good thing.  And, I really don't have enough experience with the different platers to know which ones have a better finish or not.  Will have to see how the air galley for this '73 does as it is NOS.  Hopefully that does well.

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