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gotham22

Rust Advice 78 280z

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    I was removing the fuel rail and I ran into 4 tough screws towards the front of the engine.  This one screw snapped and had I had nothing to grab. I tried a screw extractor which did nothing.  As you can see I am just making the problem worse. Any ideas? 

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    Horrible!

    Drilling and tapping looks like the way to go.  The shavings can be kept out of the intake easily, and the mount is not a super-precise fit.  It's actually pretty loose, it's just a clamp for the injectors.

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    Just now, gotham22 said:

    To clarify, this is a screw for the fuel injector mount 

    Yes, it clamps or compresses the injector in to the hole in the intake.  The big rubber ring is where the force is applied to the injector body.  It's a loosey-goosey mechanism, not precision.

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     Now for the good news. Masked, primed and started painting the engine bay!  Did not buy nearly enough paint so now I have to wait. 

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    Happy to report that I removed the injector holder screw by drilling and tapping. Also removed one of the three studs from the exhaust manifold via welding a nut. The other two snapped even more after welding. Again drill and tap. Fly wheel is off and main seal is next   We are moving end of July beginning of August. I told me wife I am driving to the new house. Now I have to make it happen. 

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    Engine and bay done.  Assembling the front suspension. Finally putting things back on the car!!!
     

     

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    Having trouble putting the transmission back on.  It seems like no matter what I do I always have a gap and can not fit it flush to the engine.  I tried using longer bolts with washers as spacers to see if I could pull it in and close the gap.  It did work to an extent but not enough to use the actual bolts.It doesn't look like the clutch is interfering with the install.  I do not see any reason why there would be a gap, it looks like I assembled everything correctly.  I know the splines were matching because if I turned the engine crank I saw it turning on the rear side of the transmission.  Anyone seen something like this before?  Any ideas or tricks that I am unaware of.  The engine and transmission are out of the car. It is the same engine and transmission I pulled.  The clutch and pressure plate are new and so is the pilot bushing.  The bushing is the same size as the one I removed. The engine is on a hoist.   

     

     

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    you are just not getting the input shaft to fit the pilot, re check the clutch install with the installation tool. when tightening up the pressure plate you want to make sure its centered, it can go in and droop a bit. I suspect the plastic tool is part of the problem, anyway eye ball the tool to make sure its 90 degrees and goes in easy.

    I hope you have a proper jack stand for the trans, as you go in try to make sure the gap is even all around then you just have to shake and work it on. I used guide bolts (long bolts with the heads cut off, sloted for removal) on diagonal sides to help hold the trans in place while doing this. it will go but you absolutely do not want to force it by using bolts to pull it up. Hopefull the pilot bush is not bunged up, that may add to the problem.

    oh and I assume the dowel pin are installed ? they provide for a precise alignment of the bell housing to the block.

     

    Edited by Dave WM

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    Thanks Dave,That makes sense.  I have the bell housing solid dowel installed.  The hollow ones were mangled by PO.  Do I need to get new ones or will the solid one suffice? I will remove and re-add the clutch today.  I have another pilot bushing so if this one is damaged I can replace it.

     

     

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    Spend most of your time sliding back and forth under the car and crawling out from under the car and looking at each side of this gap.  The two sides have to be parallel.  If they are parallel then the input shaft will be centered.  Close is not good enough, make it exact. Take measurements if your eyeball is not calibrated.  It's important.  It makes all the difference.  Use the bolts to get the gap straight but not to pull the transmission in.  

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    yes I would def replace any missing dowels, they are there to precisely align the bell (and therefore the input shaft to the pilot). Installing the bell to the engine is one of those things that you can mess with for hours laying on you back trying to get it to go, or sometimes a couple shakes and its in. I like the trans jack and the engine floor jack (using suitable 2x6 to distribute load) and then get them close use the guide bolts, and adj both engine and bell so the gap looks even. You have to get the angles right sometimes adj the engine up or down helps.

    I don't recall the dowel types or location just that they were there.

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    Looking at your photo of the clutch disc and pilot bearing. It doesn't look like it's lined up enough to get the input shaft to slide into the pilot bearing.

    I would try to line up the disc a little more. Feel around the outside of the disc and check if it is centered on the pressure plate. You can do that at three positions through the pressure plate cover. You need to get it within 1/2 mm.

    DON'T pull the transmission into position with the bolts. You could damage something. Just jiggle the back of the transmission it around and push. It should slide in.

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    19 hours ago, gotham22 said:

    The engine is on a hoist.   

    If you don't have support under the transmission it might be dropping downward to the amount of play in the bolt holes.  Get support under it so that it's not hanging on the back of the engine.  Then fiddle around with alignment, get it all squared up, and give the transmission some wiggling while you press it forward.

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    I agree I have done this about 4-5 times I always need to Jack the transmission up to get the right angle and wiggle the engine


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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    All thanks for the help!  I got it  together!  I removed the clutch and re-centered it and I still could not close that gap. It made no sense. So I removed the clutch again and I removed the pilot bushing that I had put on about a month ago.  The bushing's inner diameter is slightly too large and does not fit over the spindle. But the plastic tool worked just fine which is why I didn't think of this at first. WTF??!!   Luckily as I was searching through my parts boxes I had bought another one on ebay a long time ago and forgot I had it.  Once I put the new one in and put the clutch back on the whole job took 5 mins to align.

    She is ready to go back in!  Been a long time coming.  

     

     

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