Jump to content

IGNORED

Just what the Doctor ordered. 1977 280z


grannyknot

Recommended Posts

On 6/9/2018 at 4:33 PM, grannyknot said:

 

IMG_0740.JPG

 

I thought that the harness on the top came directly from the Passat.  That's what my comment was about.  Looks like a straight swap, six in one shot.

 

p.s. what is that red piece of garden hose doing connected to your AAR?  Holy moley...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That pic threw me at first as well. But if you blow it up to full size and look carefully just to the right of injector connector #3, you can see the cut ends of the wires from the rear bank of three. The way they are laying in the pic makes it look like it's a full harness of six (as it was intended), but it's actually two smaller harnesses of three injectors each.

And as for the AAR, that's probably red 5/8 heater hose. The original hose turned to rock and crumbled to dust, so they replaced it with some heater hose of similar size. Not that I've ever done such a thing....   :ph34r:

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I see it now.  Looks like it was made to be spliced together to make a six pack.  

I forgot that heater hose used to come in red.  I'm using heater hose for my valve cover PCV port.  Living dangerous with no flame arrester.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I did something really stupid today, it was working fine and I should have left it alone. So I snapped the rusted nuts off the rusted studs holding the EGR assembly to the intake manifold. Some how I have to get the EGR spacer off on the studs, get the corroded studs out of the aluminum manifold without destroying everything :facepalm:

 

IMG_0794.JPG

IMG_0795.JPG

IMG_0796.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can send the blocking plate from Blue.  It has no EGR.  I can get one from the z Barn if you need one.

Use propane torch to heat the aluminum. Repeat a few heat cycles with Liquid Wrench cooling.  A few taps on the top of the bolt helps break corrosion and works the solvent through.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

that is exactly why I popped for the bolt buster induction heater. With out that I would try welding a nut on with a mig welder, that should get it hot enough break the corrosion bond. I am going to be fighting a broken bolt (front bolt that holds the FI metal hard lines in place) that happened before the bolt buster. Got a mig welder now so will try it out.

Edited by Dave WM
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, grannyknot said:

I did something really stupid today, it was working fine and I should have left it alone.

Sounds like my Sunday... Or was that Monday? Probably both!    LOL  You ever seen the problem solving flow-chart?

Good luck with the project. I don't remember... Do the stud holes go all the way through to the underside, or are they blind in from the top? If they're all the way through, you could potentially get some penetrant onto the threads from the underside.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks guys, some good suggestions, spent a couple of hours on it today, BFH, heated multiple times with Map gas, cooled with wd40, little more BFH ,rinse repeat, so far it is not very impressed with my efforts. I'll keep it up for a few more days.

20 hours ago, 240260280 said:

I can send the blocking plate from Blue.  It has no EGR.  I can get one from the z Barn if you need one.

Phillip, that would be great, would appreciate that.

21 hours ago, madkaw said:

Or just cut it in half and slide it off - cut off wheel!

I may get to that yet.

21 hours ago, Dave WM said:

With out that I would try welding a nut on with a mig welder, that should get it hot enough break the corrosion bond.

This is the next step if the heating/cooling doesn't work.

 

20 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

. Do the stud holes go all the way through to the underside, or are they blind in from the top?

Blind from the top.  I may just wait until I can pull the intake manifold and get easy access to both sides.

Started working on the tail lights, the chromed bezels are pretty trashed but he plastic base is solid. I tried a test using Duplicolor Chrome rattle can paint, well it is not going to fool anyone but it is presentable I think. Anyone have other ideas?  Plastic chrome plating is awfully expensive for such a small part but I'm open to ideas.

IMG_0800.JPGIMG_0801.JPGIMG_0805.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do you think the plastic would hold up to powder coat temps? @wheee! had some pretty impressive results with the chrome powder coat.

https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/50908-1976-280z-restoration-project/?page=66&tab=comments#comment-535792

And for the outer black portion... I was messing with one of them today as well. Not as impressed with the results as I had hoped, but I have two more things to try tomorrow. If I'm lucky, I may have a good option for you then?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.