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drpchuynh

Restoration of "One-eighty-seven"

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1 hour ago, drpchuynh said:

....... The tubes and clamps are also specific to the 69 builds as well.

 

To be real specific, the wire clamps for the early cars like yours should have been silver zinc and not the yellow zinc .  @Carl Beck probably knows more about this, but the yellow zinc wire clamps came along a bit later, like on the '71 cars.  Personally, I think it's close enough.  Not many folks are up on that.

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To be real specific, the wire clamps for the early cars like yours should have been silver zinc and not the yellow zinc .  [mention=2845]Carl Beck[/mention] probably knows more about this, but the yellow zinc wire clamps came along a bit later, like on the '71 cars.  Personally, I think it's close enough.  Not many folks are up on that.
Thanks for the insight Rich! That's good to know. Were the silver zinc coating just as shiny as the yellow zinc when new? I ask because most clamps that I see are matted silver, most likely from oxidation over the years. If they are matted, then we can just rub off the yellow plating to expose the matted silver clamps. If not, then they'll require removal and nice buffing. Hopefully Carl can chime in too.

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Silver zinc hose clamps and a black distributor cap for '69 build cars.  Also the contacts in the distributor cap are brass, not aluminum.

Edited by 26th-Z

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1 hour ago, drpchuynh said:

 If they are matted, then we can just rub off the yellow plating to expose the matted silver clamps. If not, then they'll require removal and nice buffing.

Actually, a quick dip (5 seconds maybe) in a warm, diluted Muriatic acid bath will remove the yellow.  Quick rinse with water and you are probably good to go. I do this at home when needed.  I do not know whether the finish was shiny or matte.  @26th-Z is probably a better source for this info than myself.

 

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The zinc will get very dull with age.  The shine came from the brightness of the metal.  In the case of plating, the finish is going to reflect the smoothness of the base metal.  Plating only comes in one 'finish'.

So the color of the distributor cap has been discussed ad-nausium for years.  I say black but there is strong evidence for green.  What is important to me is the brass contacts.  They don't wear out as fast.

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Here is an unrestored engine compartment:
 
AllintheFamilyUnrestored240Z201511291123-2.thumb.jpg.9bcce640e474adb66d166ed86c4c1177.jpgAllintheFamilyUnrestored240Z201511291123-4.thumb.jpg.d04d36e6003e11637535c68359be86fb.jpg
Wow! That's gorgeous! Thank you for the info. I'll forward the engine bay picture to Rod for reference.

One of the things that I have considered removing is the metal fan in favor of the plastic ones for daily driving. Rod informed me that those were recalled due to blades separating at high RPM, plus they are heavy. I can always switch it back if I placed her in a show. What are your thoughts?

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Actually, a quick dip (5 seconds maybe) in a warm, diluted Muriatic acid bath will remove the yellow.  Quick rinse with water and you are probably good to go. I do this at home when needed.  I do not know whether the finish was shiny or matte.  [mention=3383]26th-Z[/mention] is probably a better source for this info than myself.
 
The Muriatic acid bath sounds like a simpler solution. Thanks!

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The zinc will get very dull with age.  The shine came from the brightness of the metal.  In the case of plating, the finish is going to reflect the smoothness of the base metal.  Plating only comes in one 'finish'.
So the color of the distributor cap has been discussed ad-nausium for years.  I say black but there is strong evidence for green.  What is important to me is the brass contacts.  They don't wear out as fast.
Got it! I'll ask Rod about the contact surfaces to see if they are brass or aluminum.

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Regarding the Diluted Muriatic Acid...It is just a 5% solution, so 20 parts water to 1 part Muriatic acid.

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The original fan should be fine to run with.  Either way it is fine.  FYI Kats posted this photo which may be from 68 or 69 test car or dyno.  It looks like an early plastic fan from another application such as 510 or from a Cedric (with L24) that would predate the production metal fan application:

@kats @HS30-H may be able so share more.

 

L24wMikuni.jpg

Here is a Cedric engine with a similar fan:

cedric early l24.jpg

 

and an L20A with similar fan:

l20A.jpg

 

 

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After relaying everyone's feedback to him about the correct distributor cap, he dug through his stash and found a black NOS cap with the brass contacts. So that'll be used going forward. 7616.jpeg

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As for striping off the yellow zinc, he used this mag cleaner. In his words, "This was too easy. Etching mag wheel cleaner took the plating right off." He said he sprayed it on and let it sit for a few minutes before wiping it off. Many ways to skin a cat. 7621.jpeg

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7 hours ago, 26th-Z said:

... and a black distributor cap for '69 build cars.  Also the contacts in the distributor cap are brass, not aluminum.

Actually I think I've come around to believing the cars originally came with the greenish color cap too.  Looking at the early photos of the red car's engine bay the cap looks green to me.  My 72 Fairlady Z-S has the original greenish cap and rotor with the Hitachi marks.  I also have a NOS black one.  Both have the aluminum contacts.  I think there may be a TSB that says that the early caps had brass contacts, so I could be wrong.  No one would ever see the contacts anyway.  I also recently bought some of the non-OEM green ones that 240260280 posted.  I think they are Mitsubishi brand .  Good quality and cheap so close enough for me.

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I'll leave the debate regarding the correct color of the caps alone and will say that I'm fortunate enough to have both options with the brass contacts. I haven't seen too many bluish green ones so I'll go with that.

Revisiting the clamps. Rod was able to make quick work of them. In addition to the clamps, he found this rubber cap (green arrow) in his stockpile. These rubber cap are soft and pliable, similar to the rubber boots you find on the bases of the windshield wipers and those covering battery terminals. Unfortunately "the heat in the engine bay dries them out and they crack and fall out so you don't see them too often." What function it serves, he isn't clear. Maybe someone can speak to its necessity. Can't see Datsun engineering a piece like that if it doesn't serve a purpose, good or bad. IMG_20180721_083146.jpg

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Rod currently has #503 in his garage. He just sent me a picture of the distributor cap that's in there. Owner claims it's original to the car. Take it for what it's worth.

In a couple of weeks, the sister car (#502) will come to his place for work. He'll snap a picture of that one too. IMG_20180721_091017.jpg

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He wanted me to share this for those restoring the earlier S30. The pulleys are similar in diameter but their profiles are slightly different. 20180721_082023.jpg

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9 hours ago, drpchuynh said:

he found this rubber cap (green arrow) in his stockpile. What function it serves, isn't clear.

That rubber cap simply covers the adjustment screw for the throttle opener regulator. On the radiator end of that device there is an adjustment screw* to control the setpoint at what differential vacuum (manifold - atmospheric) the throttle opener pulls on the throttle linkage.

* At least there is on later years... I don't know if such an adjustment was brought out to the user on such an early car.

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I noticed that you don't have the fuel lines in yet.  If you are interested, I think this hose is the closest to the original style of fuel hose that I have found.  I now use this on all of my restorations.

https://newcoproducts.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=34_44_304&product_id=191

 

 

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5 hours ago, motorman7 said:

I noticed that you don't have the fuel lines in yet.  If you are interested, I think this hose is the closest to the original style of fuel hose that I have found.  I now use this on all of my restorations.

https://newcoproducts.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=34_44_304&product_id=191

 

 

Do you know off hand if it is cleared for fuel injection systems?  It certainly looks like it but it doesn't mention that in the link.

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On 7/22/2018 at 10:10 AM, motorman7 said:

I noticed that you don't have the fuel lines in yet.  If you are interested, I think this hose is the closest to the original style of fuel hose that I have found.  I now use this on all of my restorations.

https://newcoproducts.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=34_44_304&product_id=191

 

 

Thanks Rich!  I'll pass that along.

 

On 7/21/2018 at 7:06 PM, Captain Obvious said:

That rubber cap simply covers the adjustment screw for the throttle opener regulator. On the radiator end of that device there is an adjustment screw* to control the setpoint at what differential vacuum (manifold - atmospheric) the throttle opener pulls on the throttle linkage.

* At least there is on later years... I don't know if such an adjustment was brought out to the user on such an early car.

Thanks Capt! I'll check with Rod to see if there is an adjustment screw. 

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18 hours ago, grannyknot said:

Do you know off hand if it is cleared for fuel injection systems?  It certainly looks like it but it doesn't mention that in the link.

I do not know.  I am surprised that they only give a temp rating and no pressure rating.

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The engine bay received a good scrubbing before the drivetrain is reinstalled. Pictures to document present condition.7773.jpeg7769.jpeg7770.jpeg7771.jpeg

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And more excellent work from Rod!

 

Thanks again for the fuel line recommendation Rich! Per Rod, "That's good info on the fuel lines. That's why I haven't put any on yet. I couldn't find any fuel lines that would fit the clamps. So I'm ordering that tonight. Right now I'm cleaning out your engine bay while the engine is out. I'm going to change the steering rack bushings the steering coupler and the strut rod bushings. One of your strut rod bushings is missing." He informed me that the fuel lines arrived and will have it all assembled by this weekend.7942.thumb.jpeg.a36da62529295619b0966e3fdab241e5.jpeg7943.thumb.jpeg.f060f9c6d977c7a5418b32de40aaea68.jpeg7944.thumb.jpeg.7a0018d2bc4ea1ddc2bfea8039d5c2c1.jpeg

 

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