I need some help with my 5 speed

[ksechler]

16 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

How many exhaust hanger ears do you have?

I'm not sure I follow you.

[Dave WM]

look at the tail shaft of the trans near the output. there are either 1 or two mounting points for hanging the exhaust on.

[ksechler]

2 minutes ago, Dave WM said:

Not rocket science, if the hubs were not chewed up then it should lock in nice a tight as long as you are getting the full engagement. If it was going into and out of 5th before the rebuild to fix the synchro, with the existing shifter, and not it jumps out of gear, with the same shifter, then it pretty much has to be something in the rebuild. Please describe the exact nature of the orig prob, I presume it would grind or crunch when shifting up or down?

another test, with the engine off can you easily shift from 5th to Reverse? (I think yours does NOT have the lockout mech). Where I am going is another user had issues with 5th that were traced to incorrectly installed shift dogs (or whatever we ended up calling them) on the gear hub. An easy mistake due to a poor mechanical drawing.

The original problem is that the transmission would not synchronize going from 1-2 and 2-3 leading to much gear grinding.

Yes, I can easily shift from 5th to reverse with the motor off. 

[Dave WM]

well armed with the following, it did not pop out before the rebuild to fix the grinding and now it does, you really only have three options:

1. take it back to the guy and say its has a new problem that began after the rebuild and get him to fix it.
2. take to someone else explain the new problem get them to fix it.
3. learn to fix it yourself (my preferred option).

for 3 you need some good jack stands and floor jacks and hand tools maybe a press.

 

This is based on your statements re the shifter is not the problem.

 

 

Edited April 16, 2018 by Dave WM

[Zed Head]

Dave has been deep in to the 5 speeds.  He knows of what he speaks.  EuroDat too.  Among several on the forum.

@EuroDat

[ksechler]

11 minutes ago, Dave WM said:

well armed with the following, it did not pop out before the rebuild to fix the grinding and now it does, you really only have three options:

1. take it back to the guy and say its has a new problem that began after the rebuild and get him to fix it.
2. take to someone else explain the new problem get them to fix it.
3. learn to fix it yourself (my preferred option).

for 3 you need some good jack stands and floor jacks and hand tools maybe a press.

 

This is based on your statements re the shifter is not the problem.

 

 

Thanks, it'll be option 3.  It's staying where it is for now.  I've already pulled it twice and I'm not ready to do it a third time.  4 gears is enough for now.

[Dave WM]

I feel the pain of pulling them, but there is a learning curve, I can pull and replace in about 5 hrs now, 1st time took a whole weekend. When you get into it again you will find a lot of help here.

Edited April 16, 2018 by Dave WM

[Zed Head]

43 minutes ago, Dave WM said:

look at the tail shaft of the trans near the output. there are either 1 or two mounting points for hanging the exhaust on.

Here is a 1983 5 speed.  Only one bracket for the exhaust system hanger.  Earlier models had one on each side.

[siteunseen]

Mine did great with the motor off. Tried to back out of my garage for the first time, popped out. Held pressure on it then got onto the street, 1st through 4th held perfect. Shifted to 5th, popped out.

Got back home in my garage same thing, 5th and reverse wouldn't hold. Popped out as soon as I released the clutch. Ground a little off the shifter and it went a few feet before popping out. Ground more, a little further. Repeated a few more times and it stayed. Never popped out again.

OE 4 speed shifter, '79 wide ratio 5 speed. Very rarely use 5th but reverse is a must. 

Paint it with something, lay out dye our fingernail polish then look for the nicks. Simple to do. And I would highly recommend bronze door pin bushings in the shift rod. My $.02.

[Dave WM]

The thing about the shifter is he said it did not have the problem before the rebuild with all the same shifter stuff, other wise I would think this a likely problem. Worth checking regardless, my test for if it feels loose fore and aft once in gear is a good way to tell when enough has been ground off.

[siteunseen]

If it was all sloppy seems to me it would stay in gear. After rebuilding things are tighter, popping out would be greater. 

[EuroDat]

Ksechler,

When you say it jumps out. Does it jump out with force or simply holding your finger lightly against the gear knob is enough to hold it in gear? If you can feel it force out, that is a good sign its internal and most probably an end play issue.

Otherwise before you do anything with the transmission, I would remove the console (leave the switches connected) and remove the rectangular rubber boot on the floor. You can also remove the small round selector boot on the transmission.

Drive it around and see what it is doing.

The rest that can cause your problem are unfortunately all in the transmission.

Possible causes:

- Loose main shaft nut

- Loose cluster shaft nut.

- Excessive main shaft end play caused by loose retainer plate in adapter plate orbearing has too much end play in adapter plate.

- Detents fitted in reverse in the 5th hub. Early manuals show them in reverse which is wrong. Later 300ZX with FS5W71C has them shown correctly. I have corrected a version for the 77 manual. Ill post it in the download section went Im on my PC.

- Weakened spring in the ball check for the 5th selector. All the springs are the same, so it is easy to check the condition of a poor spring. See pos#9 in drawing of selectors.

 

To identify the transmission follow document how to identify wide and close ratio transmissions.

 

FS5W71B 280Z and 280ZX transmissions.pdf

Edited April 17, 2018 by EuroDat
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