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SandyI

123 Ignition distributor?

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Just wondering if anyone's using the new 123igntion distributor on an L24 that you can tune via Blue Tooth?  I'm running triple Weber 40s with an E88 head in my 240Z for street and track events.  Timing's always been a bit of an issue.  Seems like this would be a game-changer if it actually works as well as I think it could.  Thanks for your input.

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34 minutes ago, 240260280 said:

It's easily adapted to an L24?  You have one in your Z?  The advantage to the 123 is that it comes complete with software, drive dog, cap, etc. so it's total plug and play for my L24.  No more ancient Datsun distributor. Not to mention I haven't owned a Windows based computer since 1993.  I can tune the 123 via my iPhone.

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18 hours ago, SandyI said:

 Timing's always been a bit of an issue.  Seems like this would be a game-changer if it actually works as well as I think it could.  Thanks for your input.

The Megajolt Lite requires a crank trigger.  There is a ton of possibilities out there.

Probably get better advice if you describe the "issue".  Make the solution fit the problem.

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So I think that I might have been the first Z owner to try the 123 ignition on their car.  You can find the write up I did in 2014 here:

I still contend that it is one of the best upgrades I have done and definitely makes the job of getting your advance curve optimized extremely easy. 

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Mike.

 

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59 minutes ago, 240260280 said:

 

My sincere sympathy that you drank the Kool Aid.

 

 

Funny!  Check your Android phone.  That's 1987 calling.  Wants his joke back. :)

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3 minutes ago, siteunseen said:

I don't get the joke but Jonestown's Kool Aid party was in 1978.

Very scary to a kid like me back then. I lived on that stuff, i thought it was a batch of bad Kool Aid.

 

I remember the news articles. Very sad...

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20 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

You should use your super-duper iphone to do some searching.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.albertronic.x123tuneplus&hl=en

Actually, I did.  But the Apple App Store says the app hasn't received enough ratings or reviews to display a summary.  THANK G*D FOR BILL GATES! :)

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Still wondering what the timing issue is.  There really area a bunch of different ways to control spark, and a bunch of different opinions.  Like iphone vs Andorid.

 

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20 minutes ago, 240260280 said:

So you buy car parts based on how they interface with your phone?

 

Dude. 

 

1 hour ago, Zed Head said:

Still wondering what the timing issue is.  There really area a bunch of different ways to control spark, and a bunch of different opinions.  Like iphone vs Andorid.

 

There really haven't been any major issues.  But I'm just not sure if my timing is maxing out my triples' performance. I'm looking for the best way to get the best timing up to the 7000 redline for my track days.  I'm not much of a mechanic.  (Who am I kidding?  I have no damn idea what I'm doing.) The install and set-up would be done by my friends at RS Speed Design in Glendale.  So all things being equal, if my carbs are in perfect running order, is the 123 an effective tool to get the most out of my carbs?  Is it second best to the Megajolt which is a better value?  Or are both overkill and overpriced for the performance they return compared to stay a stock 280ZX distributor?  Thanks.

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The second video on this link is pretty impressive.  I think that it would be a nice unit for triple Webers, which, as I understand things, don't usually use vacuum advance.  With tunable timing, you could actuate vacuum advance at high vacuum and mid to high RPM, which would be like highway cruising, for better smoother running.  They've also added an anti-theft feature, which is a bonus.

I'd show the RS guys this video and the specs and see what they think.

http://123ignitionusa.com/123ignitionusa-perfect-timing-for-your-classic-car/

Here are some better specs from the Dutch site.  The USA site has dumbed-down the site, it's not worth much now.  It looks pretty good, automatic "dwell", aka current-limited, high energy ignition.  And they've gotten better since they first showed up.  So they'll probably be around for a while.

http://www.123ignition.nl/product.phtml?id=221

p.s. you should tell the R S Speed guys to open their Facebook page to the public.  I can't see anything unless I log in.  Might never log in to Facebook again.  But I'll still look at other people's pages.

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I have one, and it's great! I have to admit it is tricky to get try he phone to connect to it, but once your maps setup, it is solid and you don't tend to use your phone much after, though you can use it to monitor.. any questions then ask away! I had a thread on hybridz with the base l24 (exhaust and 40dcoe) that worked for me

Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

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8 hours ago, khughes said:

I have one, and it's great! I have to admit it is tricky to get try he phone to connect to it, but once your maps setup, it is solid and you don't tend to use your phone much after, though you can use it to monitor.. any questions then ask away! I had a thread on hybridz with the base l24 (exhaust and 40dcoe) that worked for me

Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile
 

Thanks for the info.  Did you start with any of the pre-loaded maps in the software?  Or did you create your own map?  Also, did you fine tune on a chassis dyno?  Or just drive and experiment?  Thanks again!

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The Bluetooth version do not come with a base map like their set and forget versions, however i was lucky that i was given a lot of usefull advice both on hybridz, and viczcar (the Australian Z forum).

I was a little silly and decided to change my Carb's to 40DCOE webers (without any weber experience), electrical fuel pump, spark leads and dizzy all in one go.. ideally i should have done one by one.. but The dizzy map i posted on the following link got the car running to the point where i could get it on a trailer and to a weber tuner.

http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/16394-advice-on-l24-ignition-curve/

After tuning, the car has driven well, although i am waiting on a zstory exhaust to be properly fitted, and a new set of intake manifolds/linkages before i get the car more precisely tuned (on a dyno).. I think some hand holding may be needed to help an old school weber tuner understand a bluetooth dizzy if your in that scenario. For me, the dizzy looks stock standard, runs really well, it also allows me to use a new component rather than relying on getting an old L28 electric dizzy recurved etc.

To be fair, i have had a lot of "connection" issues from my mobile and the android app. I didn't when i originally set it up (although it did have map saving issues in that version of the app), but more recently when i have wanted to "monitor" the car, its been a real pain to get it reading.. unfortunately my car doesn't live with me fulltime.. so i only get rare opportunities to mess with it.. it could just be my phone.. but i need to contact them and follow it through.. it doesn't affect the running of the car on the current curve in anyway however. 

There is a surprising small amount of info out there on the tune123, however the stuff that was there gave me some worries on the dizzy fitment and the supplied adaptors. In the end however, i had NO such issues.. it fitted perfectly on my early L24. I used their recommended beru red coil as it requires a different resistance spec to the standard coils.

 

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Every FSM has the distributor curves in the Engine Electrical chapter.  And the curves aren't specific to the distributor, they are tied to the combinations of parts.  There are no "Weber" curves.

Here's 1972, for example.  A good starting point.

image.png

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directed at me? i don't believe i mentioned a "Weber" curve.. but manifolds for weber's that i have seen do not support vacuum advance (although the BT Dizzy will).. which is partly why i sort out advice when i programmed mine.

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11 hours ago, khughes said:

directed at me? i don't believe i mentioned a "Weber" curve.. but manifolds for weber's that i have seen do not support vacuum advance (although the BT Dizzy will).. which is partly why i sort out advice when i programmed mine.

Directed at the second sentence of the first post.

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