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jdmfairlady21

74 260z Looking for NY Tri-State Shop

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Hi guys. 

 

Been a lurker here forever! Picked up a 74 last summer and haven’t had the time to sort it out. 

 

Anyone recommend a tech or mechanic in the LI or metro NY area? 

 

Car came with triple webbers but seem to be wired up or lined up wrong. If you spray starter fluid, she fires up and sounds pretty damn good. But the throttle and the choke seemed to have been routed at the same line by the previous owner 😑🤨. 

 

I own a business and really have not had any time to just sort out the damn thing. Any direction to a trustworthy guy that can take this job on would be much appreciated. 

 

-Alex 

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3 hours ago, fixitman said:

Ragtops and Roadsters in Perkasie, PA.

I have heard some not so good things about this place. Of course, YMMV.

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R&R restored my 260Z to a high standard.  They have a number of excellent craftsmen.  as an example, take a look at the rear spoiler on my car - hand formed and welded sheet metal.

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Thanks guys I’ll check R&R out with a call and ask around the CT club as well. 

Not so concerned about body work and whatnot. Just really want the car running. I’m sure my Z needs a lot more work, but really need someone to reroute the throttle and choke cable and triple check the carbs just so I can drive around in this thing a little for the summer. I own a high performance nissan / infiniti  shop and personally do all the tuning on my in house dyno. But this might be a little too predated for me and my techs to tackle for the time being LOL   I’ve got 6 engine builds for twin turbo Z34s that all need to be done by May 🤦🏽‍♂️  but now have got the serious itch about getting this classic running. 

The L26 was overhauled and bored out by previous owner and I’ve compression checked etc already. 

Here’s a pic of the said car; when it was being loaded on trailer from Georgia to bring to me in NY. 

 

Thanks again gents!

0EB054AA-787B-4C70-8B36-52482030A2D4.jpeg

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23 hours ago, jdmfairlady21 said:

But this might be a little too predated for me and my techs to tackle

Haha! So you need an old guy with Weber experience. I'd give you a hand, but it'd be blind leading the blind as I've never touched the Webers.

Car looks cool. Hope you can get her sorted before the driving season!

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I can find 4 people nearby easily who could set up triple Webers for me. That's the advantage of living in God's Country. :)

 

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So it sounds like jdmfairlady21 just needs to limp it to Zcon near you and he'll have all the help he needs!

I think I'm capable of learning them, but I've never messed with them. And learning on the fly on someone else's car while they watch isn't my idea of a recipe for success. Put a set of round tops or even flat tops on that 74, and I'm all over it.   :)

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Might post this pic up on the more technical side of the forums...

 

the shiny new stainless steel line is the “choke” that the previous owner did. But upon further inspection, it’s literally routed with the throttle cable, so you pull the choke and it will pedal the throttle and vice versus 😂 

 

 

E50C2526-34EF-4044-9063-97BF2C36ADDC.jpeg

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That engine compartment's got my name all over it. At least the battery does!!! :)

Wish I knew more about the Webers. Do the Webers even HAVE a real choke system? @240260280 would know. He's spent a bunch of time on them.

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2 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

Wish I knew more about the Webers. Do the Webers even HAVE a real choke system? @240260280 would know. He's spent a bunch of time on them.

 

No,

 

Some have  have a second "mini carburettor"  that feeds air and gas directly into the manifold in parallel with the main throats... very over kill.

 

Most just pump the pedal for a few squirts of raw gas from the accelerator circuit before cranking in cold weather.

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23 minutes ago, 240260280 said:

 

No,

 

Some have  have a second "mini carburettor"  that feeds air and gas directly into the manifold in parallel with the main throats... very over kill.

 

Most just pump the pedal for a few squirts of raw gas from the accelerator circuit before cranking in cold weather.

So there’s a chance; I pull that choke off the system that it might actually start without the help of starter fluid? 🤔

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Yes.  Just remove the choke cable from the carbs and ensure the lever on the top of the carbs is all the way off to prevent any choke circuit leaking into the manifold.

 

You may enjoy this page:

http://240260280.com/Tech/Carbs/Weber/DCOE Theory Operation and Tuning.html

 

 

 

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@240260280 many thanks sir. I will attempt that when I can free up. Best lead I’ve got since owning it. 

Obviously, I’d still want this little thing to be looked over by a pro. Any recommendations are still much appreciated. 

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That’s awesome. What a small world. My workshop is in oceanside. Welcome to come by anytime. Would gladly give you a tour of the facility and have some drinks and have you tell me if this red thing is worth the restore Lim planning LOL  need a seasoned pro’s advice 

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Yessir. I saw what BaT auctions been going for. This is more a car that i wanted to sort out and at its best present to my father when he is retired. It’s the one car he’s always wanted but never got to own cause he had three sons to raise. 

 

Fonrtunate enough to be able to have gotten most of my dream cars. I’ve got to make sure I get him his, yea 

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6 hours ago, jdmfairlady21 said:

the shiny new stainless steel line is the “choke” that the previous owner did. But upon further inspection, it’s literally routed with the throttle cable, so you pull the choke and it will pedal the throttle and vice versus 😂 

It wouldn't be a "choke" then, it would be a fast idle mechanism.  So what 246 said makes sense and is the classic way of starting an old car that has a carb with an accelerator pump.  Which, apparently, the Webers do.  Pump the pedal a few times to get some raw gas in to the manifold, let it sit for 10-20 seconds to get some vapor, then try to start it.  If it starts you might have to keep working the throttle pedal to richen up the mixture, since, apparently, there is no true "choke".  Once it catches and keeps running, the fast idle cable will hold the throttle open for you.

Most old 50s ,60s, and 70s cars work that way.  But they have a true choke which richens the mixture by choking the upstream side of the venturi creating lower pressure to pull more fuel from the bowls.  They also have bimetal strip controlled fast idle systems on the throttle mechanism.

The old cars have some pretty cool mechanical methods to do what the electronics do today.

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I see ! Learning some serious stuff here with you gents. 

I guess what is throwing us off is the fact that once I do have the car fired up and idling, it idles at above 2500rpms and when you throttle it just dies and shuts off, and when you are throttling the pedal, the so called “choke” cable moves along with the throttle as if you are pushing and pulling off of each other, If that made sense. 

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Yes, it makes sense.  The choke cable interferes with the  arms on the linkage when they swing down.  

It is a poor implementation. As mentioned above, just remove the cable completely.

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