Jump to content

IGNORED

Need advice on brake rotors for '72 240Z


Grubb240Z

Recommended Posts

I need to replace the rotors on the '72 240Z I got in December. The rotors are badly grooved, both brakes are now howling once they get warm and the car is pulling left under braking. This car is my son's daily driver. Not a track toy. Looking for reliable braking with maximum longevity (there are plenty of other things to spend time/money on :))

I have a couple of questions:

1) Is there much benefit to moving up to slotted/drilled disks? Would they wear out my pads faster? The current brakes are capable of overwhelming the traction, so it doesn't seem like I need more power. Not interested in going to slotted if there's no benefit. Down the road I'm sure I'll upgrade the brakes entirely. For now, using stock calipers, etc.

2) Anybody have a recommended source for the rotors? The first place I thought of was Motorsport Auto, which, aside from online options is also just a few minutes from my house. Here is their listing for stock rotors: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic21a04/24-5031 

I suppose I'll rely on YouTube for how-to videos on how to remove and replace the rotors. I haven't done it before.

Thanks!

 

IMG_0706.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Motorsport's price isn't bad.  Don't forget about shipping costs though.  Rockauto has a selection.  And, your local auto store can probably get them.  The advantage there is that if they don't fit or are out of balance, you can return them.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1972,240z,2.4l+l6,1209169,brake+&+wheel+hub,rotor,1896

Or, you might think about having them turned.  I had some truck rotors turned at the local NAPA shop and they did a great job.  They can turn them while they're still on the hubs, so that you don't have to replace the bearings.  Plus, they should keep their balance, and runout won't be affected.  The grooves might look bad but you have to measure to know.

Many options.  Slotted rotors these days are mostly for looks.  Because race car.  New vehicles don't generally come with slots, or holes, in the rotors.  Plus, they're prone to cracking.

Edited by Zed Head
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I too would go with having them turned but you may find the cost of turning them very close to buying new ones.

If you have Advance auto out there check their price then go to retailmenot.com and get a 30% coupon code. Its been 8 years ago but just basic rotors were $20 each after the discount. And if I remember right that was what charged per rotor for a cut.

I bought drilled and slotted from amazon but like Zed said it was for looks. You can see mine through the wheels I have. Painted remanufactured calipers red, it all looks good. The ceramic pads I used got rid of the horrible squeal all Zs I've owned have.

I'll find my thread on that when u get my laptop out in the morning. Some good info on replacing the races, how to get the old ones out and seat the new ones DIY style. Torque value too.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I ordered the stock-style rotors from Rockauto after checking with the major local players (O'rielly, AutoZone, etc.). Hoping they'll get here before the weekend. In the meantime, I'll probably stop by Motorsport Auto's physical location, which is near my home and pick up some pads.

Any advice on the brake pad compound that is best for stopping power (and low on howling/screeching)? I'm not really concerned with longevity - they are cheap and easy to replace.

Thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've been using Centric brand rotors on the race car for the last few years and they've held up well. I get them from Rock Auto or Amazon. I also use their aluminum drums. We use Carbotech pads. They make several different compounds. Check their website and/or email them with questions. They're easy to deal with.

Chuck

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, Grubb240Z said:

(and low on howling/screeching)? I'm not really concerned with longevity - they are cheap and easy to replace.

I almost commented about shims the first time around.  Get the shims, for behind the pads, if you don't already have them.  MSA says that they only have one side but you can break the tabs off and make them work.  The tabs are for convenience during installation.  Some people don't have the problem with no shims but they are a guaranteed solution and don't hurt anything f they're still flat.

If you live by MSA you can always get them later, easily, and take the pads off one more time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks. The guy at Motorsport Auto I talked to was telling me that metallic will give the best stopping power but less longevity than ceramic. I didn’t ask him about noise comparison between the two and I should have. That is a key factor for me. I don’t want them to squeal. I would much rather replace them more often than deal with screeching brakes.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Search "240z shim squeal" "280Z shim squeal" on your favorite search engine.  See what you see...

Edit - or just take a chance.  Then you'll have the true knowledge of before and after.  Won't hurt you.  My experience was that it's not the pads.

Edited by Zed Head
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Seems odd to me they call them "shims".  Backing plate maybe?

Here is something I found on the www.

"They feature Integrally Molded Sound Insulator (IMI™) that integrates the friction material, backing plate and insulator into a single high strength component."

They feature Integrally Molded Sound Insulator (IMI) that integrates the friction material, backing plate and insulator into a single high strength component.

They feature Integrally Molded Sound Insulator (IMI) that integrates the friction material, backing plate and insulator into a single high strength component.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 179 Guests (See full list)

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.