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5 speed swap


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yes. That connector has oil pressure, reverse light, AT inhibit and starter motor solenoid wire. The AT inhibit seems odd on a manual, can you start you car with the clutch in while its in gear or do you have to go to neutral, and do you have a "neutral" idiot light some where? seems odd since I have a 75 and my 4 speed did not have those switches. I did see a boss that was not machined on the trans that is to the left of the fill plug. With all the experts on this forum I am sure someone will chime in on what those are on your 4 speed.

Edited by Dave WM
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seems there is a 4th gear switch out there as well as a neutral switch perhaps as some kind of lock out for safety when starting without the key. Think the 4th gear had to do with ign timing. Do you have a little box near the battery with a push button switch on it?

Edited by Dave WM
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No lights that I noticed. 

It will start in neutral clutch up or down.

Also started in gear clutch up or down.

Thought I'd give it a try in gear since the car is in the air.

There isn't any safety features. 

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therz picters in the fsm.

Seriously, they have really good pictures, with labels and stuff.  Some of the ZX transmissions had a lot of switches.

Hope you measured your throwout bearing collar and pressure plate height.

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Just now, Zed Head said:

therz picters in the fsm.

Seriously, they have really good pictures, with labels and stuff.  Some of the ZX transmissions had a lot of switches.

Hope you measured your throwout bearing collar and pressure plate height.

I tried to get thru that section about the interlock and 4th gear, glad my CA car did not have it.

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For the clutch the part numbers for the 75 and 83 2+2 donor are the same. I should be fine.

Just dropped the diff to replace with the 83 zx one that the 5 speed came from. It's a 3.90 ratio. 

Noticed my CV shafts have the flange with studs and the new ones don't. Do I need to take apart my old diff to move them over?

20180430_160423.jpg

20180430_160407.jpg

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nope the just pop in, retained with clips. a good yank and they should come out, just be careful not to damage the seals if you start prying on them to get loose. I would use two crow bars on opposite sides, pry against the flange and the diff, again watch out for damaging the seal area. putting them in just push in until clicks.

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