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Patcon

Cody's Goon

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Oh, it could absolutely still be bad!  LOL 

Are you confident in one (or more) of the 240 tachs? Why don't you try hooking one of them up to the Goon just to see if you can get the needle to move. In theory, it should work regardless if it's connected to a 510 or a 240.

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9 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

Oh, it could absolutely still be bad!  LOL 

Are you confident in one (or more) of the 240 tachs? Why don't you try hooking one of them up to the Goon just to see if you can get the needle to move. In theory, it should work regardless if it's connected to a 510 or a 240.

I thought about trying that

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21 hours ago, Patcon said:

 

I might could did up an early 240z tach and check it. We'll see what I get.

Is this some "high country" S.C. lingo???

"I'm a fixin" to add it to my linguistic skill set.  ROFL

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2 hours ago, Zup said:

Is this some "high country" S.C. lingo???

"I'm a fixin" to add it to my linguistic skill set.  ROFL

ROFLAdd away! B)

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So here is the oil gutter. Still available new, at least for now. I thought I would post up some dimensions so they could be reproduced if they become NLA

20181214_145331.jpg20181214_145337.jpg20181214_145343.jpg20181214_145354.jpg20181214_145404.jpg20181214_145420.jpg

That is the part number showing in the first photo. It's pretty light gauge stuff. If I remember I will try to mic it this weekend. I believe the end is left open to aide in installation and evidently the lack of full closure doesn't affect the ability to catch sufficient oil

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I finally got Cody to do something today. I am waiting on just a few pieces for the tranny but in the meantime he needs to get the cases clean.

This was after oven cleaner

20190101_142459.jpg

Thanks Cliff @siteunseen

20190101_142504.jpg

This was after blasting. We used the pressure pot because it's too big for the blasting cabinet. I need a bigger one...

There was an interesting number on the top of the belllhousing

20190101_142550.jpg

He then shot a couple of coats of Diamond clear on it.

Hopefully he will do the back half this weekend.

In relation to that, does the shifter arm have a slot for the locking bolt to position it? We need to strip the rear case and I wouldn't think the shifter would have to be set in a certain position. I am assuming the rod is notched to allow the bolt to pass beside it and set the arm in a specific position.

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Charles and Cody that looks great.  I saturate my fresh blasted aluminum with satin clear from Eastwood.  I'm always happy with the results, no greasy hand prints after installing. Takes about three soakings with my hvlp gun to get to the soaked level.  Won't take no more. LOL

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What is the recommended sealer for the case halves?

I thought about aviation gasket maker. the brown sticky stuff.

Also should the plugs get a sealer? What kind?

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I think most sealants will work fine. I always ensured the mating surfaces were clean and used the brown aviation sealant with no problems.

 

I would not use any sealant on an engine where a solid blob can be hidden then come loose and clog a passage. 

Permatex make two nice gasket making sealants:

Permatex® Form-A-Gasket® No. 1 Sealant  (hard setting)

Permatex® Form-A-Gasket® No. 2 Sealant (non-setting)<<< use this one if the aviation sealant molasses is not enough.

 

The transmission plugs and switches are difficult to remove. The tapered threads do not seem to work loose and hold nearly too well. Some propane helps with that.  To minimize this in the future. I use antiseize when reattaching with no probems.   If I were racing,  a blue thread locker and paint marker to identify rotation would be the way to go if safety wires were not available.

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LOL More research:  There is a #3 form a gasket:

US Part Number: 80017
Canada Part Number: 80017

Permatex® Aviation Form-A-Gasket® No. 3 Sealant Liquid (The good old molasses)

Two more non-hardening:

 

Permatex® Super “300” Form-A-Gasket® Sealant

Permatex® PermaShield™ Fuel Resistant Gasket Dressing & Flange Sealant (similar to Hylomar)

 

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