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Duffy's 1/71 Series 1 240z build


duffymahoney

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  • 2 weeks later...

Final touches on this new R35 coil bracket design. Next is laser cutting for final test fitment. Joseph Monti did a great job with this design, the boot angle was all his idea.  Previously the coil boots had a huge curve in them, which we both hated, this splits the difference (22.5 degrees).  I also disliked the coil head angle I had originally decided on.  This new coil head angle keeps the wiring nice and secured.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I figured out all my ITB issues. My fancy no contact tps sensor has this goofy huge 0 volt rest area. I had it clocked, but from 0-75% throttle the tps didn’t change at all. Then 75%-100% throttle it would move. Basically 0-1.1 volts at full throttle. 

So it would bounce .00-.15 volts and the ecu thought that was like 0-10% throttle. 

So clocked it 70 degrees. Starts around 2volts and goes to 4.3 volts. It’s super happy. Somehow this took forever to figure out. I can be so dumb. Now I can actually start to tune it.

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Well the day has finally come to use a heat shield. This is the one that came with my vintage SK ITB setup. How it installs originally didn’t protect my wiring to the firewall enough. So I shifted it down 2” and then slotted it. I hate the look of sheilds, but it was time.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Duffy,

Build looks awesome, great job. 

Working out ALL kinks on my EFI conversion is where I live right now. Our builds are similar but different. 

Did you experience any noise or magnetic issues messing with the Haltech 750 ECU connection? 

Running a single HEI coil, sequential fire distributor. All ignition components are resistor style (plugs and plugs wires) and continuity testing proved within spec. Engine starts and runs perfectly but the ECU will disconnect from the PC after a min or so, engine continues to run fine. I can reconnect while the engine is running, same result disconnect.

Added a Haltech CAN gauge in the dash the CAN will operate up to 1,000 RPM and then freezes. Will not come back up on until engine is shut off and ign switch is back to the on position. 

Much like your build the only wire spliced into the original harness is the black/white wire at the ign switch to the pink ignition wire to the Haltech harness. 

BTW- the stock 240z tach wiring in your log worked perfectly on this conversion as well. 

Where did you find the screens for your ITB horns? 

Thanks

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3 minutes ago, Blitzed said:

Hi Duffy,

Build looks awesome, great job. 

Working out ALL kinks on my EFI conversion is where I live right now. Our builds are similar but different. 

Did you experience any noise or magnetic issues messing with the Haltech 750 ECU connection? 

Running a single HEI coil, sequential fire distributor. All ignition components are resistor style (plugs and plugs wires) and continuity testing proved within spec. Engine starts and runs perfectly but the ECU will disconnect from the PC after a min or so, engine continues to run fine. I can reconnect while the engine is running, same result disconnect.

Added a Haltech CAN gauge in the dash the CAN will operate up to 1,000 RPM and then freezes. Will not come back up on until engine is shut off and ign switch is back to the on position. 

Much like your build the only wire spliced into the original harness is the black/white wire at the ign switch to the pink ignition wire to the Haltech harness. 

BTW- the stock 240z tach wiring in your log worked perfectly on this conversion as well. 

Where did you find the screens for your ITB horns? 

Thanks

The usb cable that came with my haltech would always crash.  I replaced it, and it don't have issues anymore.  Maybe try that first?  

 

Currently i have zero screens/ filters

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  • 7 months later...

A little update on my ITB build.  In the middle of this build I decided to buy a historic building and renovate it, then have my first child, so everything got pushed to the back. I am finally finding time to work on it all again.  

 

I think one of my biggest issues was voltage from my old alternator, upgrading that has made everything more happy.  

 

Well finally got my osgiken clutch out and went with a stage 1 from exedy with a lightened steel flywheel.  The osgiken was way too hard for me to street drive and my wife hated it.  It was poorly installed by me and it's a pretty racey clutch.  

 

I sent to Z car off to a guru.  Andrew Kazanis, he swapped the clutch, found my clunk (exhaust hitting during load) and change my rear main seal.  Then his buddy Matt finally fixed my passenger regulator.  Which hasn't worked in years.  I went with a repopped one.  Matt thinks my rear end is a little noisy, but Andrew can't hear it.  I cannot thank Andrew enough for all his help.  He is a friend and just an all around great guy.  

 

If I was to start this over, I would pick an ECU that someone in the area knows.  I think ITB is something I jumped into, without enough knowledge or money.  So many small issues popped up, and all stopped or slowed me down massively.  You really end up chasing your own tail a lot, trying to do all of this. A few on here and on facebook have helped a ton. Tioga, Richard Boyk, Rodney have helped so much.  Maps, settings etc... Somehow they have completely different views on pretty much all of the maps, but all are very knowledgeable and all know a ton more then me.  It will be interesting as I road tune which maps/ settings I like more.  

 

Haltech is nicely made stuff, but I found their original software extremely hard to figure out.  They have since done a massive massive upgrade (NSP) and it's much easier to use now and much more intuitive.  Also tells you when settings and maps are in conflict.  Which is huge! I am getting pretty confidante and I think I have all the small ECU settings correct.  The ECU should start self tuning.  So time to drive her and get it running right.  I literally got stuck for months from one stupid box being checked, I couldn't get the idle right during cold starts! 

 

IAC or not.  I will most likely attempt to use IAC again.  I have it fully plumbed and wired, it's also a learning feature of the ecu, so it should be the best route for cold starts. I will turn it off after say 100 degrees, which the motor idles fine after that.  My hand throttle works, also using timing to help cold starts also helps a ton.  

 

Also don't rip out perfectly good jenvy throttles, for vintage SK throttles unless you are dumb:)

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Hi Duffy,

Congrats on the new born and home, life is good.

Thank you for all the data on your thread, helped with my conversion tremendously.  Agree ECU / ITB conversion on the L series has it's challenges as issues begin to pop up over every step. 

Don't want to highjack your thread but you we're instrumental in my conversion. Couple of pics attached. Building a sleeper but no hiding the roll bar.  Running a CAN display in the clock position on the dash. She's running but as you mentioned doing load tuning. 

Question, tuning with all ign and fuel corrections turned off, attempting to tune through the RPM curve, then apply corrections. What was the switch you flipped off in the Nexus software to allow for cold start tuning? I'm in CA so average coolant temp cold is 60. 

Still dealing with electrical noise in the engine bay, messing with my contactless TPS. Any suggestions? What plugs are you running?

Thanks again for detailing your build. 

 

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In the IAC settings, you can turn on idle controlled via timing.  I had that off.  It seems to help.

 

I have a noisy tps as well.  Something I might try is grounding the shielding? Or I might re-run that wiring set.  I would have to look at what plugs, but they are stock efi? Or something of that sort. 

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I admired your willingness to complicate things X 6 when you went with the Jenvey ITB’s. I was confused when you went with the SK’s, though I love the nostalgia factor.  Was worried you would reach a tuning dead end but I’ll admit, I’m amazed at how well that thing runs. 
get out and drive an let Haltech do the tuning from here!

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I have a dyno tune session booked. But the tuner kind of rubs me the wrong way. 

I love unique things and a challenge. I also hated the black bodies of the Jenvy. The SK look rad. That being said I think I would pick borla if I started over. 

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Well sadly my ported E31 head was in an engine shop fire. Luckily my 3.1L was pretty far away from the flames. Well lots of elbow grease and 4 hours in my vapor blasting cabinet and it looks as good as new!. Now time to have it put back together.

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5 minutes ago, Patcon said:

Still straight and flat? I would think it got close to 230d F

It will get checked again. Fingers crossed. It will go back to the machine shop to get decked again and re lap the valve seats. 
 

first it needs to go in a large ultra sonic tank. 

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