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duffymahoney

Duffy's 1/71 Series 1 240z build

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15 minutes ago, madkaw said:

I used my AC holes since I don’t have AC. Where are you mounting the ECU? I split up my harness running my sensor wires out the opposite side of the engine using the choke hole. 

I haven't decided yet. I have the original ECU location behind the panel on the drivers side footwell, but I also want easy access for the USB port for programming. I actually have a plan to run a USB extension into the dash for the Haltech programming. I also have the CANBUS kit that needs to be installed as well for the wideband O2 sensor.

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I will do the canbus wideband as well.  I will do the passenger kick panel install.  Datsun spirit sales a plate that bolts in.  

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I mounted my MS3 on the trans tunnel on passenger side . Since I decided to run my harness thru the AC holes I figured I would keep the ECU closer to that . Not sure there is a right or wrong for location- it depends on the owners set up. 

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Working on my 280zxt Cas signal, so I can do full sequential.  

 

I got a very nice 280zxt distributor without a cas from a fellow Datsun nerd.  I then found a basically new fully Nissan Cas from a 1998 Nissan Quest.  Which has the correct trigger wheel.  Pretty neat.  

Dizzy is getting vapor blasted today and I should have it all installed by the weekend.  Pretty excited! 

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280zxt dizzy is done.  I vapor blasted it the housing, wrinkle coated the godzilla race works cap and new zinc hardware.  

 

I might not be able to live with the size of it.  It's pretty huge. 

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Have you seen the thread on Hybridz using the Jeep cam angle sensor ? 

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Well I looked into the Jeep. I found a nos Jeep unit and vapor blasted my pedestal. 

 

I will take it to my machine shop on Tuesday. I will have it matched to the stock spline and I will use the stock shaft bushing. 

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I got my Jenvy throttles in from Datsun Spirit. 

 

I found out they each have a 6mm vacuum port on top! . I will use these for map, FPR and maybe IAC. 

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I also got my haltech in. I opted for the non terminated ended one. It’s has a very fancy fuse panel, relay board and it’s nice small package. 

 

I am taking my kick panel and having it copied in aluminum. Then powder coated (wrinkle or semi gloss?), I will use it to mount my ecu, tach signal converter and the fuse panel. 

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I found some stack filters I like. They have three different size mesh strainers. I was told I can remove one and add foam if needed. They look amazing. But we’re expensive. 

 

I hope I like the contrast of these and the Jenvy stacks 

 

From PJmotorsports

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Edited by duffymahoney
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Curios to know if you'll do the internally regulated alternator change and delete the mechanical voltage regulator? Along the same lines, are you going to do the headlight relay harness mod?

Wilkes

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18 hours ago, w3wilkes said:

Curios to know if you'll do the internally regulated alternator change and delete the mechanical voltage regulator? Along the same lines, are you going to do the headlight relay harness mod?

Wilkes

No. My alternator will stay. It works perfectly. 

No on the headlight as well. I have vintage looking LEDs with matching vintage warm yellow bulbs I will install sometime. 

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No. My alternator will stay. It works perfectly. 
No on the headlight as well. I have vintage looking LEDs with matching vintage warm yellow bulbs I will install sometime. 

Pics of the lights?

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280z tach guts are in a series 1 tach housing. Hopefully the negative trigger and my coil on plug works with the tach with a 2.2 ohm resistor 

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I got a Datsun 2.2 resistor to go in line.  I can use the negative on the coils or a digital out from the haltech, still stuff to figure out.  

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I found a mil spec wiring harness that is within 1mm of what I was planning.  Plus it looks amazing.  I bought one, hopefully it plugs right in.  

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So getting a vac log/ map signal has proved very hard with my manifold.  

So I am going to attempt to re tap my BSPT threads to NPT (I have had great success with it actually) Then use these.

 

https://www.universalpowerconversion.com/miniature-male-branch-tee-hose-barb-brass-p-3356.html

 

https://www.universalpowerconversion.com/miniature-male-branch-tee-hose-barb-brass-p-3368.html

 

So the runners will all have a 1/8 NPT by 1/8 Hose barb T.  That way I can connect to a map sensor and also the FPR.  

 

Then on the runner with 1/4 NPT, I will use the 1/4 NPT by 1/8 hose barb T, then tap (or soldier) the top flat section to 1/8 NPT by 3/8 Hose barb (3/8 will go to the brake booster).  Then I have nice braided vacuum hoses to make the balance tube/ vac log.  Should look good and solve all my issues.  

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I have a 100 micron pre and 10 post filter. I made some mounts for them. But I’m having issues fitting both. I might just got cheap clear 100 micron inline filter. 

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