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duffymahoney

Duffy's 1/71 Series 1 240z build

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15 minutes ago, grannyknot said:

Are those your Tig welds? Very pretty.

Oh yeah, I was embarrassed to post them.  One is so nice, the other got a little wonky.  

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I doubt it's in the u-joints. U-joints will click,clunk as soon as power is applied or removed. I hear your noise after the engine starts to rev.

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The LSD isn't doing much unless you're turning.  No clutches slipping.  Might be a clue.  

Check the simple stuff like lug nuts.  They'll make those kinds of noises as the wheel wobbles back and forth.  Pretty sure also, that somebody just had a simlar noise and it was the half-shaft flange nuts/bolts at the wheel.  Check all of your nuts.

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4 hours ago, duffymahoney said:

I got o2 bungs installed.  So far so good. 

I am super rich at idle, but pretty close on higher rpms, I need to do a drive with them installed, but I have a bad noise coming from the suspension or rear end.  

 

I kind of have it narrowed down to either half shafts, driveline or something improperly installed in the rear end, everything else has been checked and re checked.  This video is with the cars parking brake on.  It's like a strange clunk/ click noise.  I am hopeful it's something u joint, but it's such a strange noise I am scratching my head.  Maybe something in the LSD?  It also does it at low speeds and lots of gas pedal on and off in 1st gear and 2nd gear.  

 

 

 

 

IMG_2486.jpg

Where did the flange and down pipe material come from?

I like your TIG welds too!

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13 hours ago, Patcon said:

Where did the flange and down pipe material come from?

I like your TIG welds too!

It's a fujitsubo exhaust system.  

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Well I have decided on ITB for my build.  Carbs sound cool, but the smell of gas in my garage is driving me nuts.  My HVAC unit is right next to my car in my garage and the fumes seem to move into the whole house.  I also think the mikuni 44s are a bit much for a stock 2.4L.  

I bought the jenvy 45s, injectors etc.. from Datsun Spirit.  I will probably do a haltech elite 750 ecu.  I got a hoke trigger kit for my stock 240z pulley and will do some sort of cam sensor from the dizzy spot.  Goal is to look basically period but be EFI.  I will re use my SK intake.  

65284356_2389242848025665_1321585189116867854_n.jpg

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Really cool project. Does the ports on your intake manifold match up with the intake ports on the head? Seems to me when I was at Eiji’s shop, the Jenveys needed work on my head to match the ports on the intake. 

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Cool! I think the L series engine will run a lot better with individual spark control, especially if you are going to run the Haltech Elite 750.

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34 minutes ago, Diseazd said:

Really cool project. Does the ports on your intake manifold match up with the intake ports on the head? Seems to me when I was at Eiji’s shop, the Jenveys needed work on my head to match the ports on the intake. 

Jenvy’s should match right up to my SK intake. 

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The wheel is for a crank sensor ,  Im not sure how it works for a cam sensor . 

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2 minutes ago, madkaw said:

The wheel is for a crank sensor ,  Im not sure how it works for a cam sensor . 

I get a little confused on all the signals and such.  But most crank sensors are 36-1 which tells the ecu it a lot of info but not enough to know if it's intake or exhaust. The 60-2 tells the ecu exactly what stroke its on.  So that is all it needs.  But again, I am a giant newbie on all of this.  So?  

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You have a link to this product - I can’t find it . I thought 60-2 wheel is just another version of a 36-1 wheel. I thought two separate sensors were needed or two separate wheels to run sequential 

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Well, any crank wheel is enough to run it all, but how...

What madkaw is getting at is this: The crank travels two complete rotations to complete one engine cycle of "four strokes". Top Dead Center occurs two different times during the complete engine cycle. With a toothed wheel attached to it, the crank can "tell" you when TDC has been reached BUT it can't actually determine if it's on the compression stroke or the exhaust stroke. (no matter how many teeth you have, or lose...) Usually we go to the Cam for that information - it runs at half the crank speed. Since the Cam only makes one rotation for every two crank rotations, a separate sensor on it can tell you when TDC is on the compression stroke - and that's what we're most interested in. Those of us running full sequential ignition with most aftermarket ECU's need input from both the crank and the cam to provide the exact engine position needed. There are other methods I'm sure, but those are most common.

Using just the crank toothed wheel input, I could still run individual coils (COP) in a "wasted spark" mode - and the Haltech ECU is certainly capable of doing that. Wasted spark fires two spark plugs at the same time on opposing cylinders so it doesn't really matter the crank position. It's firing cylinder one at both TDC compression and TDC exhaust - it can't "get it wrong".

(How could it "get it wrong"? The engine doesn't stop at the same place every time. When you shut it off, the ECU can't keep track of it's exact location and "know" it's exact position when you start it back up again -  that's why they need position sensors...) 

IF Haltech can glean enough information from a toothed wheel (not using a cam sensor input) to run full sequential (not wasted spark), I think there are many that would like to know how they do it.

(BTW, I can't see how the Hoke toothed wheel is 60-2... On the linked site it shows his as a typical 36-1. Not that the number of teeth makes any difference. More teeth normally just means better resolution but more teeth can also be harder to "read" accurately at high RPM - so they strike a balance when they invent these things.)

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Yeah that is how I understood it as well.  I will wait for haltechs response.  I am a total newbie at all of this.  Thank you for the detailed response.  

 

You can order the hoke in 36-1 or a 60-2.  It's an option.  I own both.  Here it he 60

IMG_2682.jpg

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I think fly wheel would be most accurate from an angular error perspective, and from a mechanical slop perspective:

  1. Distributor has gear lash slop at crank
  2. Damper has rubber migration and shear.
  3. Flywheel is bolted to crank, teeth are farthest from axis for least angular error, and they move fastest for strongest pulse at same rpm. You can easily add more teeth for finer resolution.

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I imagine Haltech are expecting it to run with paired injectors so it doesn't need to know the cam's position.
AIUI there's not much advantage to sequential. A little better on economy I think.
I'll be converting mine to EFI with Speeduino this winter with paired injectors.

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