Home Built by Jeff

Home Built Z 'Full video build'

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    1 hour ago, esmit208 said:

    But overall are you satisfied with the results?

    Fairly. I get better results when the pressure is a little higher but I waste more paint as overspray fog. I can get very glassy clear with it this way. If I turn it down I get a little orange peel. I wet sand that out. Not a problem for primers. They all get blocked down anyway...

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    On 6/1/2018 at 9:03 PM, 240260280 said:

    Oh boy!  You are in for a treat. Torque, Sound, and Superb road feel.  You will love it,!  After you break it in consider 40mm triple carbs!

    I drove mine from Florida to Lexington Steam Corners to Santa Barbara and back. The best 6300 miles I ever spent!

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    Nice, hey Jeff what do you use chemical wise before you spray? I've painted a number of things on my truck and had issues with paint and I assume it's because I did a half assed job on prep of raw steel. Still some form of oil on it I guess because the paint bubbled or rippled the odd time.

    Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk

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    20 minutes ago, Elliott000 said:

    Nice, hey Jeff what do you use chemical wise before you spray? I've painted a number of things on my truck and had issues with paint and I assume it's because I did a half assed job on prep of raw steel. Still some form of oil on it I guess because the paint bubbled or rippled the odd time.

    Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk
     

    I just use a wax and grease remover, but the big thing is to make sure you rough it up enough so that the paint has something to 'key' into. Make sure you use a primer first of course, and I always use a dust coat first. Then gradually build up to wet coats. Often if you try to go for a wet coat straight off the bat, you will end up with issues even if you have cleaned it up really well.

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    Jeff, I've really enjoyed watching your Datsun build. As you said there's some controversy around the mirrors. They do look COOL. I considered them way back when, but ended up just going with the stock mirror  on the drivers door. A few reasons I ended up on the door...

    They will be in the way when working under the bonnet (hood)

    Adjusting the mirrors seems like a pain getting in and out of the car to make adjustments or else it will be a 2 person job. Hopefully you and Mrs Jeff use the same mirror position. (picture your complaint about the side of the car the bonnet kick stand is on)

    If the glass in the mirrors is flat it seems that with the mirrors that far away from the driver the field of view will make them not very effective.

    They do look cool, but I don't think you'll see the mirrors on the fenders (guards) on the race cars.

    Edited by w3wilkes
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    They are definitely not a practical solution that is for sure. I am sure they are terrible to actually use, but it is more about the overall aesthetic of the car 😉 

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    Jeff, the 1st thing you need to do with the pistons is check piston to cylinder clearance and verify that its in tolerance, requires no more then a feeler gauge set, 

    insert the ring less piston up side down into the bore and see which feeler gauge fits (90% to the crank)  in the void, compare reading to the FSM. if any are under you can get them knurled and the clearance will reduce. this is very important to eliminate piston slap.

    As the mirrors go, I would use a piece of a wood dowel (a broom handle perhaps?), slightly undercut to fill the hole, finish with short strand fiberglass filler, sand to perfection.

    Edited by tzagi1
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    4 hours ago, tzagi1 said:

    Jeff, the 1st thing you need to do with the pistons is check piston to cylinder clearance and verify that its in tolerance, requires no more then a feeler gauge set, 

    insert the ring less piston up side down into the bore and see which feeler gauge fits (90% to the crank)  in the void, compare reading to the FSM. if any are under you can get them knurled and the clearance will reduce. this is very important to eliminate piston slap.

    As the mirrors go, I would use a piece of a wood dowel (a broom handle perhaps?), slightly undercut to fill the hole, finish with short strand fiberglass filler, sand to perfection.

    I recently got myself a set of outside micrometers and a set of spring T things (I can't remember there correct name off the top of my head) so I should be able to measure everything correctly. I know the bores do have some taper, I just need to see how much. I don't have a budget for a bore and new pistons, so I hope they are good.

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    11 hours ago, 240260280 said:

    FYI there are 88mm VW pistons that work well for an L28 Overbore with offset crank grind... melds your Beetle and your Z 🙂

    That is good to know. If mine are too far out of wack, I may need to look at something, but hopefully I can 'run what I brung'.

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    Well I am quite happy, I just went through and measured the clearances of my pistons and the bores including the taper and it is all well within spec which is a relief.

    I actually thought the bores would have more taper than they do, but the largest taper is 0.05mm. As for the piston to bore clearance they area all around 0.11mm where standard is 0.05 and max is 0.22. The crank is also well within spec, so I can still use standard bearings. Hopefully this should all go together nicely.

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    These blocks are quite durable and a number have been opened thousands of miles later and still show evidence of the cross hatching

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    Hi Jeff, my son and I are still greatly enjoying your builds. One question though, after grinding on your rods to balance them are you planning on doing any kind of stress relief like polishing or bead blasting?

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    27 minutes ago, torynich said:

    Hi Jeff, my son and I are still greatly enjoying your builds. One question though, after grinding on your rods to balance them are you planning on doing any kind of stress relief like polishing or bead blasting?

    No, basically that is it for me. I am not too worried about the light sanding I have done, and I don't think I have made any crazy weak points to worry about. The engine is not going to be under a huge amount of stress anyway, as I will be running the factory rev limit.

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    Looking good Jeff! Looking forward to this one turning over.

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    Jeff, Did you put some sealant at the main rear cap parting lines? those side seals can leak if you don't add a little sealant in a couple of places. I may have missed it in the video

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    1 hour ago, Patcon said:

    Jeff, Did you put some sealant at the main rear cap parting lines? those side seals can leak if you don't add a little sealant in a couple of places. I may have missed it in the video

    Yep. I briefly mentioned it, but I am following the book 'how to rebuild your L series engine' so hopefully it all goes together the way it should 😉

     

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